vettewrench

Thanks for all the help guys,will be pulling engine the week i will post some pics of the damage.pulled the rest of the plugs and 5 out of the 8 the ground straps were melted . hope we didnt hurt any of the pistons ,only time will tell

vettewrench

to answer a couple other posts ,stand alone is low pressure. and the spark plug in cyl #5 the ground strap is completely gone and you can see that there is damage to the block and head at where they meet the headgasket the car runs but shoots compression out thru the burn thru hole,on the dyno i saw the light from the "torching" and then the nos controller shut car down but it was all over by then some coolant out the overflow also ,will post pics soon

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

The piston are toast also.

Gonna cost you to get it back together but thats how you learn, you wont do that again thats for sure.

thechef

iTrader: (13)

what are you running for fuel pressure and timing?

vettewrench

the timing was at 16 - 17 * and fuel pressure was 60 lbs engine side and 9 psi on the dedicated fuel side

thechef

iTrader: (13)

I would back the timing down and go with lower fuel pressure, we never run that much fuel pressure on our previous set ups, but everyone does things differently i guess

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

I didn't read all of the responses, but being there and doing that i thought I would throw out my 2 pennies. I run about 10/11 degrees of timing with a 300 shot, and run race gas (11.24 n/a comp ratio). TR8 or 9 and also the good L19 studs which have 40% more clamping force than the standard ARP studs. If you had not lifted a head, would you have been ok, no, maybe survived a little longer but your tune was to aggressive with the timing for that shot, IMO. I have hit my 408 (built for 1000hp) with the 300 numerous times and a conservative tune in some eyes, but a correct tune in my eyes. The a/f ratio was not your problem in and of itself, and I run leaner than your leanest and have won the dyno day shoot out in our area 3 years in a row with low 13.x:1 a/f. Not sure if Shiz posted but I know he runs pretty lean (only in some eyes and in context to more street tunes). Now am I telling every Joe Sh long to run this a/f ratio, no, just pointing out that a correct tune can handle a much more leaner mix and thus more power per same poundage of nitrous used. We must tune for our combo, not someones else'. Reading of the plugs is a tool we must understand also for the more aggressive tunes.
Robert

vettewrench

Here are some pictures of the head and block. The head was torched really bad, but I'm thinking that the block isnt that bad... Judging by the photo's should I leave the motor in the car and just bolt on a new haed and gasket... What are your thoughts??? Please help...

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Dont see any pics...

V6 Bird

iTrader: (15)

that's probably because they dont exist anymore after the bad tune up...Ok Ok bad joke I know.

ssdungeon

iTrader: (24)

I have read every post in this thread and I will say that this thread is a great example of what a great forum is all about. You have a little humor, a lot of advice, a lot of different experiences, and most of all a lot of knowledge and no disrespect.

And I forgot to mention Silverzz28 added a booty to the experience.



You can learn just as much from doing things wrong than doing things right. A parallel way to perfection is learning what not to do. The process of elimination is a powerful strategy.

vettewrench

OOPS... Here’s the photos of the damage. I already ordered a new head because I don’t have time to wait for this one to get repaired. My question is... Judging by the photos can I just bolt a new head on here and not compromise the motor? Will it fail or be fine? The sleeve looks perfect, but the block is damaged... I would love to hear your thoughts...

I was thinking the same thing about nothing being left to photo V6 Bird, but amazingly enough, nothing else seams hurt at all thanks to those Calico coated JE pistons we had made with thickened crown area...

Thanks again to everyone for your input... Your reply's are very helpful...

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

WOW !
Cant say Ive seen that many times... lol

What gaskets? head bolts ?
Seems to me it lifted the head because of detonation and blow thorched the weakest spot.

If you can swing it get a set of heads with a thicker deck (ET,AFR,TFS) and some L19 head studs. Not sure about it sealing where the block is hurt, it may hold the combustion in but it could also leak water there. Post the block pics here... http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=36
Ther are alot of smart LS1 guys there who can point you in the right direction as far as using the block or not.

ls2 bait

iTrader: (11)

wow. i would def have that block welded/ decked. yo dont know what kind of distortion that could created to the deck. ouch.

vettewrench

Thanks for the info, I will definately post them on yellow bullet... Man, how did we ever get by without the internet?

ARP head studs and Cometic gaskets. I think the TF 235s will be alright when the tune is right. The last tune was way off.... We've been talking to a few of the tuners that you guys recomended so this shouldnt happen again... I hope...

vettewrench

What is the best way to check the block without pulling the motor again? If there is some distortion, do you know of anyone who could repair the block in the car???

A few local guys have looked at the block and suggested that the damage is not too bad and that we should put a new head on and go. They seem to think that the damage is far enough away rom the sleeve and water jackets that it should be fine? I would really like to hear everyone's take???

Thanks for your help again...

WE TODD DID

iTrader: (2)

Get a machinist straight edge and lay across the block in several places. Since that is out of the fire ring, you could get some jb weld to fill the hole. I can't see any reason why that won't work. It would be much better than running it like it is.

ls2 bait

iTrader: (11)

ya you need a GOOD straight edge. not a ruler. and runn it across the block. if its even a hair above the rest of the flat part of the block its going to increase the chance of it leaking. imo it would be a good idea to take it out of the car. you dont want to do all that work only to find out it has to come out anyways.

and looking at those pics again unless its the camera angle that part of the block def is not flat across. you can see the distortion on the edge.

ChevPower

iTrader: (8)

we did some testing with a 300shot today that worked out really well for us.

Tune up was
23f 32N at 7.5psi flowing fuel pressure, #10 plugs and between 10-14 degrees of timming, we where running VP NO2 fuel and AFR was between 12.2-12.5 the entire run. we chopped the plugs and they where just about dead on.

koolrayz

iTrader: (26)

I torched a head like that. got it welded up and was good to go. That was three years ago and those same heads are going strong. I had an iron block so i didnt have a block issue