is it just increased cylinder pressures? or what?

i have the cam in my sig with some home ported heads (no numbers yet) and im looking to put a 150 rwhp shot on it and am curious if the bottom end will take it assuming a good tune.

 

Its the torque it makes. Your stock piston and rods are your weak point. Just make shore you engage it at wot and above 3000 rpms.

 

Most of the problems people have is form the extra oxygen that it introduced into the cylinder. Either the wrong amount of fuel is added or too much timing is left in.

Aside from tuning it correctly the extra cylinder pressure lifts heads, blows head gaskets, puts lots of stress on rods, bearings, etc...

 

most of the problems are from bad tunes. to mush fuel to much timming to low of octain to warm of a plug. Also bad info is the 2nd reason. guys who think they know clouding up the good info.

 

also don't assume a good tune. Most guys here who hurt stuff start there post off with "The a/f fuel was perfect". then you get out of them it was 10.8 or 11.5 and I laugh

 

Greed !

You can just put 100 shot on it and leave it alone.....

 

i was under the impression that a 150 shot was pretty much standard on an LT1. and im not going to rely on a mail order tune. i plan on a dyno tune. im a little nervous about using nitrous and i want to take every precaution i can. i plan on buying a 6AL box at least, a WOT switch, and does it need to be put in before or after the MAF?

 

Again having it dyno tuned only helps if the tuner knows nitrous. the guy can be the **** at na stuff and still f a nitorus tune up if you don't know how to read plugs.

 

You should pull 4*of timing for every 50hp of nitrous. I use a WB and run 11.8 to 12.3 . Dont go to lean or you'll burn pistons and valves. And keep a small gap in your plugs .035" to .038", The cylinder pressure tends to blow the spark out and can cause miss fires ,and don't use any type of platinum plug.And use the right heat range plug for yours system. Its best to use some type of stainless steel head gasket to prevent blow out and after market head bolts or studs. or over 250 shot it good to O-ring your block. Use the matching jets and watch your nitrous pressure, if your pressure drops you will go rich and if pressure is to high you will go lean. But for me i watch my WB this tell me what i need to know. That's after i have all the above setup.

 

The guy above me is a perfect example of clouding up info. someone should delete that post. its non sense

 

Lmao! That almost looks like the exact opposite of what you would write.

 

dude, you are going to cause this kid to blow up his car..You need to read up on yellowbullet or something.....

 

when in doubt call/ ask a sponsor here

 

Add 15* per 10hp shot and aim for an A/F of around 21.5

 

what waterbug said

 

Inexperience.

 

You can't be serious?

 

Well you explain to me what you would do. ??? I run wot 28* of timing NA ,and 18* on nitrous wot. And you gap your plugs on nitrous above .038" ? and run hotter plugs than stock ? And you run platinum plugs ? I know that you can run Iridium plugs. And if your nitrous pressure drops you wont go rich with your fuel pressure staying the same threw out the run. And my fuel to air set at 11.8 on nitrous and 12.8 NA. Ive been running nitrous for over 15 years and never and the first problem with it. And plus i said PULL (take out timing) not add timing, The Cometic head gaskets has a stainless steel core and so are the stock MLS
Read this article , this will tell you what im talking about.
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ely/index.html

 

So, you run a hotter plug?

 

No i run NGK TR8's witch is a very cold plug, the stock replacements are TR55, I told him to use the right heat range plug for his nitrous system , Like a NGK-TR-6 for a 100 shot or even a TR-7.