Hesitation with Nitro Daves window switch
Hesitation with Nitro Daves window switch Just finished putting a Nitro Daves dual stage window switch on my 98 Z. It is a direct port setup for a 200 shot. I'm only on one stage for now. Has a walboro 255 and a racetronix hot wire kit.
The controller is setup to the best of my knowledge. #1 setting is set to 000 with the tach wire coming off the coil pack harness. The TPS is set to 002 and when I go WOT the volts read 8.4v. Bottle pressure is around 1000.
My question is when its armed the controller reads 000 is that correct?
When the kit is activated it bogs/hesitates for a split second and then pulls fine after that?
Also the tach reads about 100-150 rpms off the reading on the controller....I figured it has some delay
The controller is setup to the best of my knowledge. #1 setting is set to 000 with the tach wire coming off the coil pack harness. The TPS is set to 002 and when I go WOT the volts read 8.4v. Bottle pressure is around 1000.
My question is when its armed the controller reads 000 is that correct?
When the kit is activated it bogs/hesitates for a split second and then pulls fine after that?
Also the tach reads about 100-150 rpms off the reading on the controller....I figured it has some delay
Just finished putting a Nitro Daves dual stage window switch on my 98 Z. It is a direct port setup for a 200 shot. I'm only on one stage for now. Has a walboro 255 and a racetronix hot wire kit.
The controller is setup to the best of my knowledge. #1 setting is set to 000 with the tach wire coming off the coil pack harness. The TPS is set to 002 and when I go WOT the volts read 8.4v. Bottle pressure is around 1000.
My question is when its armed the controller reads 000 is that correct?
When the kit is activated it bogs/hesitates for a split second and then pulls fine after that?
Also the tach reads about 100-150 rpms off the reading on the controller....I figured it has some delay
The controller is setup to the best of my knowledge. #1 setting is set to 000 with the tach wire coming off the coil pack harness. The TPS is set to 002 and when I go WOT the volts read 8.4v. Bottle pressure is around 1000.
My question is when its armed the controller reads 000 is that correct?
When the kit is activated it bogs/hesitates for a split second and then pulls fine after that?
Also the tach reads about 100-150 rpms off the reading on the controller....I figured it has some delay
And are you sure the hesitation is due to the switch and not the kit? Most hesitations are due to a momentary lean condition or just basic lack of instantaneous flow of fuel and nitrous to where you want it (in the cylinder).
Have you checked the activation of the noids buy sound to see that they are opening as SOON as all the conditions are met? If you are in doubt and cant figure out why the hesitation...hook up a test light to your windshiled run in parrallel to you noids. See if the hesitation coincides with the light. if the light is on and your still getting hesitation...the issue is with your kit or tune or install. If the light delays as well...then its the controller. For some reason I seriously doubt its a controller issue.
There is no delay built into the switch. The switch reads the rpm its seeing. There could be a slight visual difference to the a factory tach needle swing. Also need to compare rpm at a higher rpm say 2000 would give a closer reading to a factory tach then at idle. Stumbling at activation is usually a fueling/Nitrous delivery especially on a DP. There is a lot of plumbing there that needs to get filled.
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Subscribed to find the problem, I've got the same issue.
I've got a Racetronix pump, NO dual window switch. Get good TPS signal, RPMS are reading good, but i always get a hesitation whenever it sprays the very first time, then takes off.
I'm only spraying a 100 shot though...
I've got a Racetronix pump, NO dual window switch. Get good TPS signal, RPMS are reading good, but i always get a hesitation whenever it sprays the very first time, then takes off.
I'm only spraying a 100 shot though...
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Man I would contact chris in the am and N20 outlet. I have the nos mini controler I hooked up my rpm wire to the white wire that comes out of the computer harness. Its just more accurate,
So the tps volts read a 8.4. Do you have the tps hooked up to the throttle body I think its the blue wire the most mine reads is 4.5 max out. Sounds like there is something wired wrong or you have it programed wrong. Let chris walk you through it. Get a wideband to.
So the tps volts read a 8.4. Do you have the tps hooked up to the throttle body I think its the blue wire the most mine reads is 4.5 max out. Sounds like there is something wired wrong or you have it programed wrong. Let chris walk you through it. Get a wideband to.
Last edited by dnkynrbk; Jul 27, 2009 at 08:06 PM.
Subscribed to find the problem, I've got the same issue.
I've got a Racetronix pump, NO dual window switch. Get good TPS signal, RPMS are reading good, but i always get a hesitation whenever it sprays the very first time, then takes off.
I'm only spraying a 100 shot though...
I've got a Racetronix pump, NO dual window switch. Get good TPS signal, RPMS are reading good, but i always get a hesitation whenever it sprays the very first time, then takes off.
I'm only spraying a 100 shot though...
Im using the NO dual window switch and also have a slight hesitation.. IM new to the nitrous world and thought that was just the nature of the beast.. I will b checking back in on this thread
Man I would contact chris in the am and N20 outlet. I have the nos mini controler I hooked up my rpm wire to the white wire that comes out of the computer harness. Its just more accurate,
So the tps volts read a 8.4. Do you have the tps hooked up to the throttle body I think its the blue wire the most mine reads is 4.5 max out. Sounds like there is something wired wrong or you have it programed wrong. Let chris walk you through it. Get a wideband to.
So the tps volts read a 8.4. Do you have the tps hooked up to the throttle body I think its the blue wire the most mine reads is 4.5 max out. Sounds like there is something wired wrong or you have it programed wrong. Let chris walk you through it. Get a wideband to.
TPS voltage is good, 8.4 - yes the blue wire. Only thing is that I need to get my RPM signal from the coil pack or PCM, right now I'm getting the signal off the injector which could* be part of the problem but I doubt it. The RPMs are accurate according to the window switch
Its the blue wire. Mine is a 98 It should not read 8.4 something is cross somewhere. When you set it and u put the pedal to the floor mine maxes at 4.5 I set mine at 3.9 so it engauges 3/4 throttle im going to smash it to the floor so it starts activation.
I just do the pcm mine is a white wire comming out of the pcm look up your year there is a faq somewhere that tells you how. Chris can tell you tom im sure. You have something crossed or something is not set right. Do you have it grounded good and your noids grounded good to. If not check that out to. That 12.2 and going rich is weird dont do that lol. or go BOOM.
Do you have a purge? If you dont purge before you race the line is part empty and when you activate the nitrous has to go from half the line filled up then to the noid so you would get a slight hesitation when you actvat.
Before you call I would trace all your wires write them down so you can have the answers if they ask you. Also how you have the mini controller set up.
I just do the pcm mine is a white wire comming out of the pcm look up your year there is a faq somewhere that tells you how. Chris can tell you tom im sure. You have something crossed or something is not set right. Do you have it grounded good and your noids grounded good to. If not check that out to. That 12.2 and going rich is weird dont do that lol. or go BOOM.
Do you have a purge? If you dont purge before you race the line is part empty and when you activate the nitrous has to go from half the line filled up then to the noid so you would get a slight hesitation when you actvat.
Before you call I would trace all your wires write them down so you can have the answers if they ask you. Also how you have the mini controller set up.
Its the blue wire. Mine is a 98 It should not read 8.4 something is cross somewhere. When you set it and u put the pedal to the floor mine maxes at 4.5 I set mine at 3.9 so it engauges 3/4 throttle im going to smash it to the floor so it starts activation.
I just do the pcm mine is a white wire comming out of the pcm look up your year there is a faq somewhere that tells you how. Chris can tell you tom im sure. You have something crossed or something is not set right. Do you have it grounded good and your noids grounded good to. If not check that out to. That 12.2 and going rich is weird dont do that lol. or go BOOM.
Do you have a purge? If you dont purge before you race the line is part empty and when you activate the nitrous has to go from half the line filled up then to the noid so you would get a slight hesitation when you actvat.
Before you call I would trace all your wires write them down so you can have the answers if they ask you. Also how you have the mini controller set up.
I just do the pcm mine is a white wire comming out of the pcm look up your year there is a faq somewhere that tells you how. Chris can tell you tom im sure. You have something crossed or something is not set right. Do you have it grounded good and your noids grounded good to. If not check that out to. That 12.2 and going rich is weird dont do that lol. or go BOOM.
Do you have a purge? If you dont purge before you race the line is part empty and when you activate the nitrous has to go from half the line filled up then to the noid so you would get a slight hesitation when you actvat.
Before you call I would trace all your wires write them down so you can have the answers if they ask you. Also how you have the mini controller set up.
To clarify, the car goes super lean off the hesitation, then super rich, then levels itself out around 12.0-12.2 which is good enough for me, even though I'm going to try and tune for 11.8 after i fix this hesitation issue and i go wtih a bigger shot.
Yes, I'm purging...I'm actually purging through the solenoid. I KNOW nitrous is on the noid when i spray. Only other thing is the length of the lines to the plate - 2ft, but so is the fuel side. I KNOW this isnt the problem, the car HITS after the hesitation, then after that race if i slow down and do it again, same thing! Its not just the first race that it does this, it does this EVERY time.
A 2ft line will not matte. I have a 3 ft line going from the dedicated to the fuel noid. Are you running off the fuel rail. Do you have an upgraded fuel pump in your car? I have seen cars that run there fuel off the fuel line to the noid fuel and the fuel pump be stock or weak and it makes it go lean because the pump cant keep up. Just and Idea. And you dont have the controler in ramp pause mode?
I would try getting a voltage meter and put it on the blue wire and have someone push the gas down with the kep on and test it the most the tps should read is 4.5
I would try getting a voltage meter and put it on the blue wire and have someone push the gas down with the kep on and test it the most the tps should read is 4.5
A 2ft line will not matte. I have a 3 ft line going from the dedicated to the fuel noid. Are you running off the fuel rail. Do you have an upgraded fuel pump in your car? I have seen cars that run there fuel off the fuel line to the noid fuel and the fuel pump be stock or weak and it makes it go lean because the pump cant keep up. Just and Idea. And you dont have the controler in ramp pause mode?
I would try getting a voltage meter and put it on the blue wire and have someone push the gas down with the kep on and test it the most the tps should read is 4.5
I would try getting a voltage meter and put it on the blue wire and have someone push the gas down with the kep on and test it the most the tps should read is 4.5
Yes, the fuel is coming off the rail. Yes i have a racetronix pump on the car and the hesitation problem is the same with both pumps (stock & racetronix). The OP is getting 8.4v too though?