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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 07:54 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Nimitz87
yeah forgot about Devon's hood, very nice, and not that big of a restriction. have you ran it at the track on the 200 hit yet? loving your whole setup....

Chad
LOL. Thanks dude.. No spray runs yet but havent been to the track in a while. Soon though. Car runs 10.8x/126 on muscle though. Too ****** hot!
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 09:23 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by 3fingas
LOL. Thanks dude.. No spray runs yet but havent been to the track in a while. Soon though. Car runs 10.8x/126 on muscle though. Too ****** hot!
yeah no kidding. are you still a 6 speed? I can't remember.

Chad
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 08:31 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Nimitz87
yeah no kidding. are you still a 6 speed? I can't remember.

Chad
yup. But not for long..
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 09:36 PM
  #64  
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A friend of mine pulled his carb hat and tubing off at the track and tried a open throttle body run and the car did not pick up anything. His IAT temps went sky high with the open throttle body vs. the hat,tubing and lid setup and he has no FTRA under the lid. Something i tought i would share to those that are wondering about this.
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 12:21 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by StreetStalkerZ
A friend of mine pulled his carb hat and tubing off at the track and tried a open throttle body run and the car did not pick up anything. His IAT temps went sky high with the open throttle body vs. the hat,tubing and lid setup and he has no FTRA under the lid. Something i tought i would share to those that are wondering about this.
Yup sucked pretty bad, it actually slowed quiet a bit. I'm debating on putting that FTRA on soon .
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by StreetSilverado
Yup sucked pretty bad, it actually slowed quiet a bit. I'm debating on putting that FTRA on soon .
So you attribute the loss of power to airflow or High IAT?
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 07:14 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by 3fingas
So you attribute the loss of power to airflow or High IAT?
It seems to me that both were the culprit. I would think with the cowl hood you could get as much air vs the lid setup but that may not be the case and you add the high IAT to the mix and that makes it worse. Very surprising to me when Greg told me what the difference was while he was tuning between the two setups.

I know for a fact with the FTRA the IAT temps will go down quite a bit going by what my hptuners log is showing. I'll try it out on mine since i have the FTRA and see what the difference is. Going by what happened with blaine's car mine probably will be worse since i run the FTRA.
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 3fingas
My bad...





Yeah the wipers work. If you DD it you would have to do some more sealing from water, but I dont so I didn't. Also had to mod some of the hood. not too bad. I wanted to add a thicker spacer/plate but it just barely rubs the hood, so anymore than 1/2", then an aftermarket hood or shim the k-member.
I did a quicky search but couldn't find any more info? do you have a link? that is one very trick looking elbow, and yes, some of us want looks along with performance, lol. I would love to compare it to the mid height Edelbrock elbow I am running, below is the current set-up. Is it a full 4" inlet? So far I have been able to keep all of my inlet plumbing at 4" all the way the the ambient air intake Vararam. The Vararam works great for keeping the IAT low. Notice I have a temperature gauge on the elbow to check for cast elbow heat sink. I don't think it will be much of an issue, but something geeky to keep track of, lol. is that a Vacuum pump valve on your valve cover? Mine is on my other cover too, if that's the case.

Robert
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 11:37 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by StreetStalkerZ
It seems to me that both were the culprit. I would think with the cowl hood you could get as much air vs the lid setup but that may not be the case and you add the high IAT to the mix and that makes it worse. Very surprising to me when Greg told me what the difference was while he was tuning between the two setups.

I know for a fact with the FTRA the IAT temps will go down quite a bit going by what my hptuners log is showing. I'll try it out on mine since i have the FTRA and see what the difference is. Going by what happened with blaine's car mine probably will be worse since i run the FTRA.
Well IMO your more than likely going to see increase air temps when on a dyno. The air isnt there. Then again if hot air is the culprit then you may see some loss. Where was his IAT sensor when he took it off at the track? I dont remove the hat when at the track, just the filter so I can get cold air thrown right at the hat from the SS hood but I do adjust map. I put the IAT in the oil dipstick ring. LOL and dont see too much heat from that. Your friend should try it on the road and log it. If its setup right, he should'nt see high IAT. I dont see more than 90* but on the dyno, it's reached 120*.

Let us not forget that in florida, I dont even go to the track in july and august. LOL

Last edited by 3fingas; Sep 6, 2009 at 12:44 PM.
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
I did a quicky search but couldn't find any more info? do you have a link? that is one very trick looking elbow, and yes, some of us want looks along with performance, lol. I would love to compare it to the mid height Edelbrock elbow I am running, below is the current set-up. Is it a full 4" inlet? So far I have been able to keep all of my inlet plumbing at 4" all the way the the ambient air intake Vararam. The Vararam works great for keeping the IAT low. Notice I have a temperature gauge on the elbow to check for cast elbow heat sink. I don't think it will be much of an issue, but something geeky to keep track of, lol. is that a Vacuum pump valve on your valve cover? Mine is on my other cover too, if that's the case.

Robert
The hat is a Extreme Velocity and its pretty common with boosted carb app.'s. http://www.superiorairflow.com/. I have no scientific info comparing the two types, but I can tell you that turning air in front of the throttle blade has its plus's. The distance between the tb and manifold is zero. The car idles at 60-65 kpa. As far as restriction, I dont believe there's much, if any. The hat is 11"s to the top of the tb. IMO the shorter the distance, the better. Also eventhough you can say air is turning 90* on both setups. Its less dramatic with the hat b/c AF is straight and paralell too the top tb where with the elbow AF is turned 90*+ and hits the back of the elbow before the flange. Regardless of a hat or elbow. The convienence with the elbow it that there is way less modd'in to do (cowl, Hood) and you can still grabb air from ontop of the radiator (Stock lid) without having to run 30 feet of pipe. I have found that you dont want to end a filter or pull air in the space between the water pump and radiator, too hot. I think the major difference between the two is $. The hat is $280 not sure of the elbow but Im assuming its less.

Lets face it, most of us is forced to turn air b/c of clearances. If we had 4" cowl hoods and a windshield that did'nt extend out so much, then there would be no need. **** if that were the case, I would run dual 4150's with 1 1/2" spacers.

I have an electric vacuum pump that pulls 11hg. Its labor intensive with cleaning so that's why I'm swithing to a mechanical pump very soon. But it works. Is that an ez pump? I want it. LOL any issues with it?

I like the gauge. LOL purge your n20 on that watch was that drop like a rock.

By the way, ur setup is real nice.

Last edited by 3fingas; Sep 6, 2009 at 01:54 PM.
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 12:38 PM
  #71  
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Dam guys those setups look killer i would like to run a ram air but i think im gonnna fab up a 6" cowl hood on my silverado it should be a little different, hopefully its not to hideous
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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 03:45 PM
  #72  
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i just have to say that i dont mind my intakeelbow setup cause with the proflo carb kit i picked up 180 rwhp and 230 ftlb to the ground on a 150 shot. works for me
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 06:07 PM
  #73  
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I will have to agree with SSfast99, our 99 has a 402 with a GMPP intake, Arrons elbow with a fast 90 and a N20 Daves plate, has 93 pump in the tank and c16 in the standalone, went 10.98 on motor and 9.69@139 on a 150 shot with a 136 60' on the rear tires off the footbrake, and was actully running rich that pass with a 12.7 A/F, plate seems to work just fine. I suppose opinions and set-ups vary, I think its all in the tune...lol
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Nasti98Z
I will have to agree with SSfast99, our 99 has a 402 with a GMPP intake, Arrons elbow with a fast 90 and a N20 Daves plate, has 93 pump in the tank and c16 in the standalone, went 10.98 on motor and 9.69@139 on a 150 shot with a 136 60' on the rear tires off the footbrake, and was actully running rich that pass with a 12.7 A/F, plate seems to work just fine. I suppose opinions and set-ups vary, I think its all in the tune...lol
Yes overall a/f ratio can read fine. however, if you take and really read the plugs, many guys have had front cylinder lean issues. Now for a small 150 shot it probably will not be a concern as long as nothing else gets out of wack. the guys running north of 250/300 will really have to watch out. Maybe the GMPP intake reacts differently? We are all in somewhat new territory, and I would love to have a set of EGTs and test the different combos. Might even consider running a little fat, just in case? it works for many, we are just finding slightly better combos for certain set-ups. great to hear you have yours ironed out.
Robert
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