ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Closer to 150 than 200.

SMKN TA 95

iTrader: (46)

Now some more info for you to chew on.... I've used a 26/20 at 8.75 lbs of flowing fuel pressure, NGK 11's, and 10 degrees of timing pulled out. Engine is safe, but not definitely not on the fat side.

I've also used a 31/24 at around 8.25 lbs of flowing fuel pressure, 14 degrees of timing pulled, NGK 11's. Again, I'm not into running my **** on the ragged edge just yet. Going by my tuneup and comparing it to what the "Forums" say, you would think my system would be soo fat it would burn up every pass. Well I've got news for ya, you can't believe everything you see and read online. We've also pulled the motor down to check things over this winter, and I have to say everything looks phenominal on the inside.

I like to get my stuff safe first, and then creep up on the ragged edge tune. I've got too much invested to burn my **** up on the first few times out.....

Good luck with your tuneup

minytrker

iTrader: (13)

Thats the best advise in the nitrous section. There are alot of fast nitrous cars out there they arent on tech or any forums. I have seen a few of them first hand and there setups would never work according to the info on here, lol.

BAKED

iTrader: (14)

What was your base timing? Got any pics of your plugs?

SMKN TA 95

iTrader: (46)

I just checked my BS3 file, and on the 31/24 tuneup, base timing was at 33-34 degrees, and pulled 13 degrees of timing.

I don't have any plug pictures that I know of. Most of my plugs are thrown away after a weekend. I always use new plugs every weekend, and everytime I change jets.

Do you have any pictures of yours?

BAKED

iTrader: (14)

I'll see if there are any left in my box. If there are I'll get some pics.

That's quite a bit of timing for that size shot on an LS... Even with an 11 in there

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Thats why it doesnt look fat.

More than 1 way to skin the nitrous cat.

ShiznityZ28

iTrader: (11)

Agreed but fat does not burn anything up fast. it will take the tension out of the rings then let the oil in then take the ring lands off then start in on the head..... Im not saying your fat. If your plug are good there good.

Was the car lazy in the 60' on this tune? thats more nitrous and more timming than we use on our first. also more fuel in the N/F ratio.

SMKN TA 95

iTrader: (46)

Oh I understand what going fat will do. I have questioned the tuneup on my car with regards to the fuel pressure, but everything seems to work where its at. I've used anywhere from 13-15 degrees of timing pulled for that 31N pill.


Last time out, the car seemed slightly lazy, but I found out later that day that I had a broken stator in the converter. So thats one reason why things weren't working properly. The motor wouldn't come up on the converter like it was supposed to.


Where do you guys like to see your timing marks at? Bottom of the strap, middle, end ? I know everyone is different, hence the reason for asking. We tune mine to where the timing mark is on the bend or slightly below that towards the first thread.

How do you calculate the lbs/hr of nitrous flow through a given yet size? I've got the lbs/hr of fuel, but I can't remember how to calculate the nitrous. I'd like to know what my N/F ratio is.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Middle of the strap is 2* to much, almost at the threads is 1* -2* from melting the strap off.

But we run ours leaner than you so I GUESS you can run a little more timing than us.

BAKED

iTrader: (14)

SMKN TA, what kind of engine setup are you running? I haven't seen many LS engines that need 33-34* timing on motor.
Mine is happy at 26-27* on motor and with 26/20 @ 5.5 in the fogger and a 67/58 @ 5.25 in the plate I'm running 10* total. The timing mark is just outside of the bend on the strap and I'm running Autolite 3932's witch is close to an 11 I believe. I'm also running VP 116.

I know there are different ways to get the same end result. I was just puzzled because when i run the fogger by it's self (26/20) my tune up is alot different than his and I know what my plugs look like. I know every cobo is different but if I put his tune up in mine I'd say it would melt down within the first 1/8th mile...

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Ours likes 34* on motor.

Get rid of the autolites !!

BAKED

iTrader: (14)

What heads, cam, compression?

Hell no, I like my Autolites. I know what you are gonna say about them. I have tried both and they both are fine, I just prefer the Autolites. Different strokes for different folks.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Cary's C5X heads, big cam , 13:1.

Some people have to learn the hard way I guess.

BAKED

iTrader: (14)

LOL, They will be fine. I've learned my lesson before.

It's hard to get NGK's around here but they will keep the autolites on the shelf for me. I don't dislike NGK's, I just like the autolites better.

NGK's are a little easier to read, they are also easier to melt if a man does want to get greedy LOL.

SMKN TA 95

iTrader: (46)

I've got a 427 LSX, Carys C5R-X heads (11 degree), very large camshaft, 13.3:1 compression, Nitrous outlet direct port, Cary's 2 piece intake etc. My engine combo is very similar to what Atvracer had last season. Our top end was almost identical, and I've got a slightly larger shortblock.

To get our baseline motor timing, we put the car on the chassis dyno to what the motor liked NA. We originally stopped with the timing at 30 degrees, but we decided to take ATVracer and Shiznity's advice about how these heads liked timing on motor. Everytime I added 1 degree of timing, the engine picked up 15-20 hp. We stopped at 34 degrees as thats where the peak was.

ATVracer, where do you run your timing mark at on the plug. I normally try to keep mine right in the middle of the bend.

BAKED.... when I had my old setup ( standard 15 degree stuff), I had lower base timing than what I ran with this motor.

But I've also got a very limited amount of runs on this combo, so I never got the point where I could start tweaking things a little bit at a time to see the gains or losses.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

We got the 34* idea from Smith, he runs that much with his 15* heads.
We tried it and picked up alot of power, had to add a bunch of fuel but that goes hand in hand.

We TRY to keep the timing mark close to the tip of the electrode.
It moves depend on the fueling, little tweaks in fueling show up on the strap with our set up.

SMKN TA 95

iTrader: (46)

Just for some other info, I talked with Jeff Prock last week and he told me some interesting things. He said that he likes to run the timing on the base of the strap or almost at the first thread. As far as I'm concerned, that sounds like meltdown material to me.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

You misunderstood him, I have talked to him a 100 times and he wants us to run it on the end of the strap or not on it at all.

He is one of the smartest people I have ever talked to about nitrous, motors and Drag racing in general.

BAKED

iTrader: (14)

That makes a lot more sense LOL. I didn't realize that you had all that "big dick daddy stuff" LOL.

We tried throwing more timing at my motor but it didn't gain anything past 27* witch is about the same as most of the other stock cube cars that we have on the dyno. The bigger cube motors seem to like a little more timing and when you get into the really big bore with big heads, cam, etc. I guess they like even more.

I haven't had the pleasure to mess with any big motors with H,C,I as nice as what you guys have. Hopefully in the next few years I'll hit the lotto so that I can LOL. Untill then I'll do what I can with my baby motor.

Do either of you guys ramp the timing in?

ATV, How much timing do you guys end up with on yours when it's jetted for 400? (If you don't mind me asking)