Please help youe nitrous experts. I just hooked my kit back up and I went to test it and the selonoids (sp) are not kicking on. I have the nos 5177 dry kit with the wot switch at the throttle body cable. In the past I could just hit the wot switch and they would click so I knew it was working. Is there a inline fuse on this kit and where is it if so. I've checked all the connections and grounds and everything seems fine. The arming switch inside the car is lighting up and everything. I need this crap to work.

 

The fuse is inline with the wire that goes from the relay directly to the battery.

 

I found that after I posted and it's not blown. I wonder if the big black fuse that everything else goes into is shot? It's next to the inline fuse and looks like all the notrous wires are going into it.

 

You could swap in a new relay. Ive had one go bad before. You're not running a window switch?

 

No window switch. Do you know if there is supposed to be two wires going to the wot switch at the throttle body? There are two places for wires but I only have one and I can't recall if I had two to begin with. I disconnected this kit about 5 years ago and have since had a engine swap so I could have lost a wire along the way. Sorry for the difficult blind questions but I wonder if that's my problem? It has a hookup on top and one a little lower on the wot switch kinda on the back side rifgt behind where the blade hits it. I'm trying to find a wiring diagram from nos but can't find one.

 

That is probably your problem. Power wire to micro switch then a wire to your relay for soleniods.

 

Got it going now, thank God. It was the missing a ground wire on the micro switch. Get this though, I have no idea which wire went to which side of the fpss. I just took a guess and the Solenoids clicked just fine. My question now is, will they still click if by some chance I hooked up the fpss on the wrong side lol? I didn't want to mess with it after they clicked. One side is a ground and the other to the solenoid so I'd assume not. The nos diagram is backwards from my fpss so I have no idea?

 

There is no polarity on a fpss. You're fine whichever post you hook to.

Nick

 

Thanks man. That's good to know. Do you guys sell the br7 plugs? The guys at Oreiley's never heard of them lol.

 

give them ngk # 3346 and they will find them.

 

They get goofy eyes when you give them letters...Unless you're lucky to find someone who knows plugs.

Nick

 

If you still can't find the plugs locally we have them on the shelf ready to ship.

 

Yea, I tried that one time and they were like whhhhaaaattt? then I gave them the stock number. Luckily I have a store that can get them next day and usually have 200+ in stock at the place they get them. 2.49 for the 7's which is decent but only 1.69 for the 8's, "Ill take a couple sets of the 8's please"

funny the price differences between them.

 

okay I got the BR7 plugs after a couple of different stops. Now what should I gap them at? I know all the searches say to consult. So I'm consulting with you guys The car makes 423/390 something on motor and I will be spraying the 150 dry shot. I have all the fuel goodies to boot. What should I gap them at on my setup? I left a message with my tuner but have not heard back yet.

 

You could prolly get away with .035, we gap ours tight at .028-.030 and everything seems fine.

Glad to hear you found them.

 

Thanks for the info. It is my daily driver. Does that play into what the gap should be? Should I go with .033 or something like that. I would only be spraying it while at the track or if I get a little froggie once in a while on the street. Mostly daily drivinhg though.

 

I think you will be fine with a .035 gap. We run it based a tighter gap based on recommendation to us so we go with it. I dont think you will have a problem at .035 though.

 

Cool beans. Thanks again for the help. I'll post up the new numbers in a week or so after spraying it. It better hit 550 or I'm setting it on fire. lol