Got a ? on a kit
#1
Got a ? on a kit
Hey guys im new to the whole nitrous thing but I have a friend that I am prolly going to be buying his kit from. He said that it is a tnt wet kit and it comes with everything that is needed to install it and it also has a window switch. The only thing that confuses me is that I want a dry kit and a few people that I have talked to said that you can make a wet into a dry kit. His is a plate kit though so how would I make a plate kit into a dry kit. Doesnt it have to spray in front of the maf so the computer knows how to adjust for the nitrous? Thanks in advance. Im new to all this stuff lol.
Matt
Matt
#3
Hey guys im new to the whole nitrous thing but I have a friend that I am prolly going to be buying his kit from. He said that it is a tnt wet kit and it comes with everything that is needed to install it and it also has a window switch. The only thing that confuses me is that I want a dry kit and a few people that I have talked to said that you can make a wet into a dry kit. His is a plate kit though so how would I make a plate kit into a dry kit. Doesnt it have to spray in front of the maf so the computer knows how to adjust for the nitrous? Thanks in advance. Im new to all this stuff lol.
Matt
Matt
Finally the answer is no you do not need to spray the nitrous in front of the MAF. You can get the HSW interface and it will do the job for you and spray the dry nitrous after the MAF. Now all of this extra **** costs money to make it a dry kit, so you can leave the kit like it is and not have spend any extra money
#4
First off, I would leave the kit just like it is and keep it a wet kit since everything is there. You can turn the kit into a dry kit but then you would have to block off the fuel side of the kit so you won't have a vacuum leak whether it be a plate or nozzle. Then all the jetting will change because you are making it a dry kit. If you don't have injectors already you are going to need them for a dry kit since the injectors supply more fuel on a dry kit.
Finally the answer is no you do not need to spray the nitrous in front of the MAF. You can get the HSW interface and it will do the job for you and spray the dry nitrous after the MAF. Now all of this extra **** costs money to make it a dry kit, so you can leave the kit like it is and not have spend any extra money
Finally the answer is no you do not need to spray the nitrous in front of the MAF. You can get the HSW interface and it will do the job for you and spray the dry nitrous after the MAF. Now all of this extra **** costs money to make it a dry kit, so you can leave the kit like it is and not have spend any extra money
#5
who ever told you dry kits are safe, are idiots im sorry
if you dont wanna belive me and im sure a bunch of other people on here wet kits are the safest way to run nitrous
and you are getting the nitrous at a good price
it come with the power ring right?
if you dont wanna belive me and im sure a bunch of other people on here wet kits are the safest way to run nitrous
and you are getting the nitrous at a good price
it come with the power ring right?
#6
OP - I would leave it wet if that is how you bought it. Make sure it is set up properly and the tune is good and it will be just as safe as a proper dry kit.
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#9
I would leave it alone and run it as a wet kit. If you are dead set on a dry shot then I would buy a kit that is setup for it..
I don't really prefer wet over dry or dry over wet. Used properly you will achieve the same end result.
#10
#11
Well do you guys think that 300 for the whole kit is a good price? I think that the kit is about 2 years old. Should I have to replace anyting on it to make it safe? What else should i get for safety besides the window switch?
#13
He said that it is the plate kit, msd box, purge, and all the wiring and stuff like that. Im pretty sure it is everything that is needed because he took it off his car and I remember when he used it on his car.
#14
Just FYI .......TNT is out of business, they made excellent kits I had one on the SS in my sig. but if you need a part for any of it and you wanna keep it all TNT it sgionna be hard to find stuff. For 300 i would go with a new kit for not much more from like HSW or nitrous outlet.
#15
Just FYI .......TNT is out of business, they made excellent kits I had one on the SS in my sig. but if you need a part for any of it and you wanna keep it all TNT it sgionna be hard to find stuff. For 300 i would go with a new kit for not much more from like HSW or nitrous outlet.
#16
most of the times its all interchangeable, some people prefer nitrous outlets solenoids and prefer HSW plates(just using for an example) so they can be used together. but if you ever had a problem and wanted to contact TNT to see if they can offer help or repair, you wouldnt be able to. for 300 bucks i would look into a new kit from a sponsor i think id be happier.
#17
The bottle is perhaps the most expensive part of the "kit". There is a life span that comes into play. At some point, the bottle should no longer be used after a specific age. If you are buying a used kit, find out how much life is left with the bottle.
The nitrous control solenoid has a hard life because of the pressure it has to deal with. An older, used solenoid can be a big problem if it leaks into the intake with the engine off. In my opinion $300 for a two year old kit is a question mark. Your friend is basically selling it at about half the new price if the kit is basic. If the kit is top end stuff that includes a remote bottle opener and safety items then the $300 is probably a good deal. If it is a basic kit with a mechanical WOT switch then the deal isn't so great. If he is willing to help you hook it all up, then that is quite valuable and the whole situation looks better.
Look closely at the hardware. Is it corroded or scratched? What is the life of the tank and does the kit include a pressure gage and a heater? if so, is it mechanical or electronic. Is the WOT switch mechanical or electronic? These are factors that determine the value of the kit.
Once you have experience with nitrous you will know how to piece together the components you want. My first exposure to nitrous was with a basic Zex wet kit. After seeing how it all works I would not go that direction again but the first time kit was what I needed to get my feet wet since I had no associates to draw experience from. For an experienced nitrous user to find the kit that has everything you would want is a research project in itself. In other words, my second N2O kit was created piece by piece from the knowledge I had gained from the first. When it was all said and done, my first $550 kit really cost me about a grand to get all the additional goodies that made it safe and convenient with features like a window switch, spark retard, rev limiting, bells and whistles.
The nitrous control solenoid has a hard life because of the pressure it has to deal with. An older, used solenoid can be a big problem if it leaks into the intake with the engine off. In my opinion $300 for a two year old kit is a question mark. Your friend is basically selling it at about half the new price if the kit is basic. If the kit is top end stuff that includes a remote bottle opener and safety items then the $300 is probably a good deal. If it is a basic kit with a mechanical WOT switch then the deal isn't so great. If he is willing to help you hook it all up, then that is quite valuable and the whole situation looks better.
Look closely at the hardware. Is it corroded or scratched? What is the life of the tank and does the kit include a pressure gage and a heater? if so, is it mechanical or electronic. Is the WOT switch mechanical or electronic? These are factors that determine the value of the kit.
Once you have experience with nitrous you will know how to piece together the components you want. My first exposure to nitrous was with a basic Zex wet kit. After seeing how it all works I would not go that direction again but the first time kit was what I needed to get my feet wet since I had no associates to draw experience from. For an experienced nitrous user to find the kit that has everything you would want is a research project in itself. In other words, my second N2O kit was created piece by piece from the knowledge I had gained from the first. When it was all said and done, my first $550 kit really cost me about a grand to get all the additional goodies that made it safe and convenient with features like a window switch, spark retard, rev limiting, bells and whistles.
#18
I have bottles that are 10-15 years old. You are supposed to get them pressure tested every 5 years or so but I honestly don't know anyone that has.
The first things that are going to wear out in a kit are the plungers and sometimes the coils. That's about the only parts that you might wanna look at.
The first things that are going to wear out in a kit are the plungers and sometimes the coils. That's about the only parts that you might wanna look at.
#19
one will be better than the other for your combo just depends what your doing with it and what your doing to protect yourself.
#20
Thanks for clearing that up. I was under the assumption that there was an expiration date where the bottle wasn't to be legally filled again. I would think there are few refill stations that would even check. I guess the testing is to have the bottle certified? Apologies for the interruption.