Direct Port, stand alone fuel writeup!
Thread Starter
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Direct Port, stand alone fuel writeup! Due to popular requests I started putting together a decent writeup on my install. A lot of credit goes to Reckless and FSTR-THANU for the ideas that went into my setup. You can tell that each of ours are pretty identical, but it's hard to do these sorts of things any different when they are done right.
http://www.derty.org/?body=Installs&content=directport
Let me know what you think or what you would like to see some more of.
http://www.derty.org/?body=Installs&content=directport
Let me know what you think or what you would like to see some more of.
Last edited by DERTY; Dec 31, 2003 at 07:38 AM.
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From: Texas, it's like your state, but better.
i really love the detailed parts list. it make sit MUCH easier to esimate, and track down all those dastardly lil fittings, tubing, ect ect.. those are a serious pain.
good job Derty.
BTW, why didnt ya add it all up?
good job Derty.
BTW, why didnt ya add it all up?
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Thread Starter
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
I did, it's $600 bucks roughly. Give or take 20 bucks. Depending on those damn -8 fittings you'll easily save 100 bucks if you simply find a way to use straight fittings instead of the angled ones. But it in my case it looks nice and I'd rather have something that's nice instead of ghetto.
I'll fix the pictures right now and give you a couple larger ones.
I'll fix the pictures right now and give you a couple larger ones.
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From: Texas, it's like your state, but better.
i did notice those being un-Godly expensive. i'll find some way to pass on those. but i definately like that triangle cell. very nice piece. how many passes do you see out of that one? 1 gal?
all things considered equal, for 100 bucks cheaper? i'll take 1 ghetto please.
all things considered equal, for 100 bucks cheaper? i'll take 1 ghetto please.
Thread Starter
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
I can get about 2 solids passes out of it with a 200 shot. 300 Doesn't use much more either. This fuel cell is about 2/3 of a gallon or so. Provided that the rest of the car supplies all the fuel to the motor this size cell hasn't been a problem at all.
I personally top it off after every pass and flow check it each time. Only for my own self confidence that I'm not going to blow anything up due to lack of fuel and the right pressure!
Larger pictures are now there. Just click on the smaller photos.
I personally top it off after every pass and flow check it each time. Only for my own self confidence that I'm not going to blow anything up due to lack of fuel and the right pressure!
Larger pictures are now there. Just click on the smaller photos.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 173
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From: Flower Mound, TX
Great writeup! I gotta admit, though. I'm with Vince on the ghetto vs. $$$ factor... if $100 can be saved by using straight fittings, then I'll deal with that and it not looking as purddy....
I can buy a couple of bottle fills for $100
I do have one question though... wouldn't the most desireable place for the regulator be as close to the 'noids as possible, so that you can elimnate as much air in the fule line up to the noids as possible? Just curious... I know it'd add more clutter of fuel lines and such, but is that very brief time of running lean at the beginning of the shot or it's elimination thereof worth the relocation of the regulator?
I can buy a couple of bottle fills for $100
I do have one question though... wouldn't the most desireable place for the regulator be as close to the 'noids as possible, so that you can elimnate as much air in the fule line up to the noids as possible? Just curious... I know it'd add more clutter of fuel lines and such, but is that very brief time of running lean at the beginning of the shot or it's elimination thereof worth the relocation of the regulator?
Thread Starter
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
The return line to the tank is in there to bleed off the air for that very reason. . When you stand buy the tank and have someone kick it on you can hear the air rush into the tank if you listen closely. Even on my A/F charts we've never seen any initial lean or rich conditions with this setup. We do see increasing lean conditions over a pull when the return line jet is too large with the larger shots. That's what made me decide to either tighten up the jet size like I recommended or to get a larger pump. 140 GPH just can't sustain fuel flow through 9 .031 jets at 9.5 PSI!
Other then that it simply comes on like a freight train and I just have to shift. This motor has at least 50 nitrous passes on it and it hasn't shown any significant issues.
Other then that it simply comes on like a freight train and I just have to shift. This motor has at least 50 nitrous passes on it and it hasn't shown any significant issues.
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From: Texas, it's like your state, but better.
cool..
thats good info on the pump stuff. i feel a TON better about my setup now having heard that. i think i'll start w/ a blue pump for my measly lil 2 stage system then.
thats good info on the pump stuff. i feel a TON better about my setup now having heard that. i think i'll start w/ a blue pump for my measly lil 2 stage system then.
Originally Posted by DERTY
The return line to the tank is in there to bleed off the air for that very reason. . When you stand buy the tank and have someone kick it on you can hear the air rush into the tank if you listen closely. Even on my A/F charts we've never seen any initial lean or rich conditions with this setup. We do see increasing lean conditions over a pull when the return line jet is too large with the larger shots. That's what made me decide to either tighten up the jet size like I recommended or to get a larger pump. 140 GPH just can't sustain fuel flow through 9 .031 jets at 9.5 PSI!
Other then that it simply comes on like a freight train and I just have to shift. This motor has at least 50 nitrous passes on it and it hasn't shown any significant issues.
Other then that it simply comes on like a freight train and I just have to shift. This motor has at least 50 nitrous passes on it and it hasn't shown any significant issues.
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From: Texas, it's like your state, but better.
well, technically, just priming the system would be ideal, but that'd have to be done before the system was run.
definately something to look into. design it and make eleventy-billion dollars.
definately something to look into. design it and make eleventy-billion dollars.
Thread Starter
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Fluid dynamics don't work that way. Basically put the density of fuel is greater then air. As fuel pushes against the closed noid it is displaced and will find the path of least resistance. Granted fuel will try and find that exit too, same laws apply. But if you have the pump running for a little bit before your run you should be fine. I turn mine on just after the burnout. Also, flow checking the system does help prime the line but doesn't prevent long term reversion back to the tank.
10 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,884
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From: H-town
thats a great write up. i ran this type of fuel system on my 69 and had zero problems, but i only ran a blue pump. the system was a MrBig shot and even at the 350 seting i did not have any fuel pressure drop problems but i did have major tracion problems and i decided to just spray a 225. i would say that a black pump would be extra insurance but the blue pump is plenty enough at least for NOS kits. i also had another blue pump for the motor and it was makeing 500rwhp without any problems.
Thread Starter
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Yeah, like I said a blue will probably be fine for lower pressure tunes like NOS at 6 PSI or so. But at 10 PSI which is where NX jets their fuel it doesn't keep up, but a black will. Just check with the manufacturer for their recommendations on the minimum GPH that their system requires and you should be safe.