Was this detonation or just an engine failure on a good nitrous hit?
03-26-2010, 02:06 PM
#1
Was this detonation or just an engine failure on a good nitrous hit? I put this in the gen III engine section but I figured I would put it here too since it was on nitrous.
I went to the track awhile back and blew up my motor. I was hitting it with a 2 stage setup (100 off the line and switching to a 200 after the 60ft). It ran 4 passes on the motor fine and blew up on the nitrous pass.
Before I went to the track, I was on the dyno and made 100 hp hits and 200hp hits and it ran fine. The only difference between the dyno and the track was that on the dyno I was using nozzles in the intake boot. When I went to the track I switched over to a 2 stage Nitro Daves plate. The motor went boom a little after half track. Here are some pics tell me what you think.
I went to the track awhile back and blew up my motor. I was hitting it with a 2 stage setup (100 off the line and switching to a 200 after the 60ft). It ran 4 passes on the motor fine and blew up on the nitrous pass.
Before I went to the track, I was on the dyno and made 100 hp hits and 200hp hits and it ran fine. The only difference between the dyno and the track was that on the dyno I was using nozzles in the intake boot. When I went to the track I switched over to a 2 stage Nitro Daves plate. The motor went boom a little after half track. Here are some pics tell me what you think.
03-26-2010, 02:18 PM
#6
Another reason we use coated bearings in all our N20 motors.
When it detonates it hammers the rod onto the crank and closes that oil cushion = spun bearings. Sometimes we have a few bearings come out with shiney spots on them (coating is black) and we know we werent far from hurting it.
Always start small and work you tunes out at the track.
When it detonates it hammers the rod onto the crank and closes that oil cushion = spun bearings. Sometimes we have a few bearings come out with shiney spots on them (coating is black) and we know we werent far from hurting it.
Always start small and work you tunes out at the track.
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03-26-2010, 02:35 PM
#9
*** turning a system off.
If its on let it eat !
Just do 100 and 100 instead of 100 then turn it off and turn on 200.
alot of crazy **** goes on when your turning stuff on and off.
We have to taper in fuel when we turn a kit on and I bet you wet guys get little lean spike when a kit comes on. Well say that stuff overlaps a little there could be a problem.
Just sayin.
If its on let it eat !
Just do 100 and 100 instead of 100 then turn it off and turn on 200.
alot of crazy **** goes on when your turning stuff on and off.
We have to taper in fuel when we turn a kit on and I bet you wet guys get little lean spike when a kit comes on. Well say that stuff overlaps a little there could be a problem.
Just sayin.
03-26-2010, 02:49 PM
#11
I talked to you on here about my 2 stage setup on here awhile back ATV. You and Shiz advised me of doing a 1 and 2 since i was running 1 bottle and had to be able to play with both stages since I street race.
I know it had to be on one system because it would have blown up sooner on both stages.
I know you are going to kick me in the head for this one ATV and cam, I expect Shiz or jl to jump on me too.
I was spraying this on 93 octane pump gas and it was at 28* on the 100 and I used the lingenfelter timing tuner to pull 4* on the 200.
I suspect if I had pulled more timing or used better gas it would have been ok. I have learned a whole lot in the past couple of months of reading and posting with you guys.
I know it had to be on one system because it would have blown up sooner on both stages.
I know you are going to kick me in the head for this one ATV and cam, I expect Shiz or jl to jump on me too.
I was spraying this on 93 octane pump gas and it was at 28* on the 100 and I used the lingenfelter timing tuner to pull 4* on the 200.
I suspect if I had pulled more timing or used better gas it would have been ok. I have learned a whole lot in the past couple of months of reading and posting with you guys.
03-26-2010, 03:35 PM
#12
In my previous post I am not saying the way you told me to spray my car had anything to do with my motor taking a dump. It was owner/driver error. I should have used better judgement in my setup.
I only knew a tip of the iceberg back then and I have alot to still learn.
The oil I had in the motor was Mobil1 10w40. Could that have been a issue?
I only knew a tip of the iceberg back then and I have alot to still learn.
The oil I had in the motor was Mobil1 10w40. Could that have been a issue?
03-26-2010, 03:39 PM
#14
In my previous post I am not saying the way you told me to spray my car had anything to do with my motor taking a dump. It was owner/driver error. I should have used better judgement in my setup.
I only knew a tip of the iceberg back then and I have alot to still learn.
The oil I had in the motor was Mobil1 10w40. Could that have been a issue?
I only knew a tip of the iceberg back then and I have alot to still learn.
The oil I had in the motor was Mobil1 10w40. Could that have been a issue?
we all do.
nope ran that before with no issues.
03-26-2010, 03:51 PM
#16
Trust me when it blew I had this look on my face
. Ten seconds later my buddy and 2 cousins started got on the laptop in the truck and found a whole l92 motor on craigslist for 800 bucks and all we started talking about was 418 ci then I had this on my face
. Ten seconds later my buddy and 2 cousins started got on the laptop in the truck and found a whole l92 motor on craigslist for 800 bucks and all we started talking about was 418 ci then I had this on my face
03-26-2010, 07:50 PM
#17
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Interesting, I spun #1 and #2 connecting rods at the track (100 shot with H/C), cause I did not damage a piston, I did not think it was related to the Nitrous...
Having a 383 built so what needs coating?
Jim
Having a 383 built so what needs coating?
Jim
03-27-2010, 08:25 AM
#19
This is a post by a member on here in another thread and this is what I kind of actually followed back then and it is ALL WRONG INFORMATION! YOU SEE THE PICS OF MY BEARINGS AND THIS IS WHAT I FOLLOWED.
"You should pull 4*of timing for every 50hp of nitrous. I use a WB and run 11.8 to 12.3 . Dont go to lean or you'll burn pistons and valves. And keep a small gap in your plugs .035" to .038", The cylinder pressure tends to blow the spark out and can cause miss fires ,and don't use any type of platinum plug.And use the right heat range plug for yours system. Its best to use some type of stainless steel head gasket to prevent blow out and after market head bolts or studs. or over 250 shot it good to O-ring your block. Use the matching jets and watch your nitrous pressure, if your pressure drops you will go rich and if pressure is to high you will go lean. But for me i watch my WB this tell me what i need to know. That's after i have all the above setup."
"You should pull 4*of timing for every 50hp of nitrous. I use a WB and run 11.8 to 12.3 . Dont go to lean or you'll burn pistons and valves. And keep a small gap in your plugs .035" to .038", The cylinder pressure tends to blow the spark out and can cause miss fires ,and don't use any type of platinum plug.And use the right heat range plug for yours system. Its best to use some type of stainless steel head gasket to prevent blow out and after market head bolts or studs. or over 250 shot it good to O-ring your block. Use the matching jets and watch your nitrous pressure, if your pressure drops you will go rich and if pressure is to high you will go lean. But for me i watch my WB this tell me what i need to know. That's after i have all the above setup."
