Am I asking too much from my tuner?
06-27-2010, 06:57 PM
#43
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Well I guess because I am still on the stock block that is as far as he wanted to go on the n2o tune? If I want more power do you think I could jet it for 125 or 150, leave the tune as is, and be safe? I am running the Br7's.
06-30-2010, 08:09 PM
#48
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If you wanna stay at that nitrous level, lower the fuel jet get it leaned out. If you wanna spray more, raise the nitrous jet... one way or another, you need to get it leaned out.
07-01-2010, 01:14 PM
#49
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Thanks for all the good advice, I think I know what I am going to do. When the rain quits I will go to the track, get my wideband, adj fuel pressure to 52psi, check plugs, and go from there. Being at 11.0 A/F it shouldent take much to get to 11.8. Hopefuly just a couple of psi down on the standalone.
08-28-2010, 06:02 PM
#50
Did you get the car to the track? I am in the same boat as you are. I am going to get my car tuned here in the next month and I want to run 100-150 shot. I talked to the tuner yesterday and he had not heard of the BR7 plugs that everyone suggests. He said a TR6 would be find for that small of a shot. I said that there are better options out there now and he said he will do whatever I want. Which was not the answer I was looking for.
08-28-2010, 07:15 PM
#52
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Your tuner may be lazy...who knows...but IMO its about 99% likely that with a 100 shot...and C16 in the standalone you will be EXTREMELY safe. That is assuming he hasnt jacked the NA timing way beyond what it typically needed NA.
That still doesnt mean it wouldnt hurt to pull 4 degrees and work from there.....or check the plugs.
But we are talking about a 100 shot here and using C16...sheesh. Your margin of error is HUUUUUUUUGE!
So IMO your tuner is likely correct and I would be calling anyone an idiot based solely off the info in this thread.
That still doesnt mean it wouldnt hurt to pull 4 degrees and work from there.....or check the plugs.
But we are talking about a 100 shot here and using C16...sheesh. Your margin of error is HUUUUUUUUGE!
So IMO your tuner is likely correct and I would be calling anyone an idiot based solely off the info in this thread.
Last edited by 383LQ4SS; 08-28-2010 at 07:20 PM.
08-28-2010, 07:34 PM
#53
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Any Tuner who has not Heard of a Br7ef Plug for nitrous on an LS car is NOT someone I would trust. When I tune nitrous Cars I read the plugs and the AF Usually ends up around 11.5-12.1 Depending on the Compression and Octane with the bottle pressure at 1100. Bottle Pressure is tricky too i have noticed when pressure drops below 1000 the AF richens up FAST
08-30-2010, 12:02 AM
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Well the only thing I accomplished at the track was breaking something in the trans or converter
It feels like I am towing a huge load behind the car it just wasent accelerating. I am in the process of saving money and learning how to drop the engine and trans myself
It feels like I am towing a huge load behind the car it just wasent accelerating. I am in the process of saving money and learning how to drop the engine and trans myself
08-30-2010, 12:05 AM
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Your tuner may be lazy...who knows...but IMO its about 99% likely that with a 100 shot...and C16 in the standalone you will be EXTREMELY safe. That is assuming he hasnt jacked the NA timing way beyond what it typically needed NA.
That still doesnt mean it wouldnt hurt to pull 4 degrees and work from there.....or check the plugs.
But we are talking about a 100 shot here and using C16...sheesh. Your margin of error is HUUUUUUUUGE!
So IMO your tuner is likely correct and I would be calling anyone an idiot based solely off the info in this thread.
That still doesnt mean it wouldnt hurt to pull 4 degrees and work from there.....or check the plugs.
But we are talking about a 100 shot here and using C16...sheesh. Your margin of error is HUUUUUUUUGE!
So IMO your tuner is likely correct and I would be calling anyone an idiot based solely off the info in this thread.
