Timing mark on the plug
05-08-2010, 11:46 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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Timing mark on the plug I sprayed the car tonight tuning my fuel jet, and when I pulled the plugs they looked rich, so I went down a size. But here a pic of #3.
Where is the timing mark? Close to the threads right?
Here's cylinder 8:
I know I'm supposed to tune for the leanest cylinder, but I was curious, is this a nitrous delivery problem, or do I simply just take out another deg of timing?
I have 8deg of retard at the moment.
Where is the timing mark? Close to the threads right?
Here's cylinder 8:
I know I'm supposed to tune for the leanest cylinder, but I was curious, is this a nitrous delivery problem, or do I simply just take out another deg of timing?
I have 8deg of retard at the moment.
05-09-2010, 01:40 AM
#2
#3 is def hotter than #8. Go off of the leanest plug to set your timing for safety. But worse case it's not going to hurt to run one of the cylinder's a little hotter and on edge to get the rest where they need to be. There is a happy medium there of going to far or leaving some on the table as far as power. The way they look right now I'd leave the timing where it's at if the fueling is spot on!
The fueling you can't tell anything by looking at the top of the plug. The WOT fuel ring is at the base of the porcelon. You will need a scope or cut the threads off the plug to accurately get your fueling right.
The fueling you can't tell anything by looking at the top of the plug. The WOT fuel ring is at the base of the porcelon. You will need a scope or cut the threads off the plug to accurately get your fueling right.
05-09-2010, 02:40 AM
#3
Your mark on 8 is about perfect in most peoples book. Usually my 5678 are the hottest so its weird to see 3 so hot, but yes you will tune off your hottest hole with these cars since we cant control individual cylinders.
and yes it is dead rich or you have an oil problem, I cant tell well because of the pics, cut off the threads so we can see the porcelain to see how rich it really is.
What were you jets? total timing on motor? total timing on nitrous?
also remember when you are leaning it out you will need to watch timing and possibly take some more out.
and yes it is dead rich or you have an oil problem, I cant tell well because of the pics, cut off the threads so we can see the porcelain to see how rich it really is.
What were you jets? total timing on motor? total timing on nitrous?
also remember when you are leaning it out you will need to watch timing and possibly take some more out.
05-09-2010, 04:24 PM
#5
Staging Lane
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Jets were 62/35, and I added 2% at the injector some time ago. It is fuel, I can smell it. I went to a 33 fuel jet but I am thinking I should step it down to a 31 or lean out the 2% in the tune.
Timing is 26deg on motor, 18 on nitrous.
Timing is 26deg on motor, 18 on nitrous.
05-09-2010, 05:40 PM
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05-09-2010, 05:59 PM
#8
Don't add timing until you get the fuel right and watch it as you are taking away fuel.
This is how I would go about it IMO.
05-10-2010, 09:29 AM
#9
the last pic i can see timming(looks real close maybe 1 to much to start with) fuel is tough on those pics. looks rich or got some oil in there. but if you take a jet out of the fuel take a degree out of the tune . as you lean it out the mark will move to the bend. take the pics looking straight down and cut the threads off after that and get us 1 from the side. also the heat on the threads i might put 1 colder plug in. once you lean it out the "hot" cyl might change on you.
05-10-2010, 04:46 PM
#12
Staging Lane
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Shiz, Just a NX shark nozzle. I had a NOS plate that dyno'd good numbers but felt like a turd on the street. I took it off and put the nozzle back in and it feels 10x better and here is where we're at now.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Thanks for the suggestions.
05-11-2010, 02:09 PM
#14
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I took of HSW plate and put on NX Shark nozzle car was alot faster. Seams like plate was restricted anything over 100HP.
05-11-2010, 03:27 PM
#16
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I'm curious to know this as well. Thanks
05-11-2010, 08:19 PM
#17
Don't throw too much change at it. I go about 2 jet sizes at a time and the check again. You do not want to get too greedy and change too much. I'd also only tune on jet sizes if you have them.
Don't add timing until you get the fuel right and watch it as you are taking away fuel.
This is how I would go about it IMO.
Don't add timing until you get the fuel right and watch it as you are taking away fuel.
This is how I would go about it IMO.
Listen to this guy, he speaks the truth.
05-12-2010, 11:56 PM
#19
Looking at your pictures it is not real clear.. Sometimes pictures like this can be misleading.
When looking at the timing mark look at the strap with a magnified light. Once you see the timing mark take your thumb and wipe the strap clean down to the metal just to varify the mark you see is still the same. The burn mark on the strap metal is the most acurate as it gives the best detail.
The fuel ring will be at the bottom of the porcylyn like stated above but I still look at the smooth base where the pstrap is welded to and the top range of the porcylyn as I am dialing it in. (I dont feel like cutting plugs up until I am close on the tune up) On the smooth base I look for a full color change. Basically a charcoal gray. On the porcyln I use a magnified light just to varify I do not see and signs of pre detonation or fuel spots.
If there are silver specs on the porcyln its a sign of pre detonation. If there are black spots its fuel and odds are the smooth base is a black color shopwing to rich.
Once I get these areas along with timing and heat range locked in then I will start cuting threads to look at the fuel ring.
Dave
When looking at the timing mark look at the strap with a magnified light. Once you see the timing mark take your thumb and wipe the strap clean down to the metal just to varify the mark you see is still the same. The burn mark on the strap metal is the most acurate as it gives the best detail.
The fuel ring will be at the bottom of the porcylyn like stated above but I still look at the smooth base where the pstrap is welded to and the top range of the porcylyn as I am dialing it in. (I dont feel like cutting plugs up until I am close on the tune up) On the smooth base I look for a full color change. Basically a charcoal gray. On the porcyln I use a magnified light just to varify I do not see and signs of pre detonation or fuel spots.
If there are silver specs on the porcyln its a sign of pre detonation. If there are black spots its fuel and odds are the smooth base is a black color shopwing to rich.
Once I get these areas along with timing and heat range locked in then I will start cuting threads to look at the fuel ring.
Dave
05-13-2010, 08:16 AM
#20
Looking at your pictures it is not real clear.. Sometimes pictures like this can be misleading.
When looking at the timing mark look at the strap with a magnified light. Once you see the timing mark take your thumb and wipe the strap clean down to the metal just to varify the mark you see is still the same. The burn mark on the strap metal is the most acurate as it gives the best detail.
The fuel ring will be at the bottom of the porcylyn like stated above but I still look at the smooth base where the pstrap is welded to and the top range of the porcylyn as I am dialing it in. (I dont feel like cutting plugs up until I am close on the tune up) On the smooth base I look for a full color change. Basically a charcoal gray. On the porcyln I use a magnified light just to varify I do not see and signs of pre detonation or fuel spots.
If there are silver specs on the porcyln its a sign of pre detonation. If there are black spots its fuel and odds are the smooth base is a black color shopwing to rich.
Once I get these areas along with timing and heat range locked in then I will start cuting threads to look at the fuel ring.
Dave
When looking at the timing mark look at the strap with a magnified light. Once you see the timing mark take your thumb and wipe the strap clean down to the metal just to varify the mark you see is still the same. The burn mark on the strap metal is the most acurate as it gives the best detail.
The fuel ring will be at the bottom of the porcylyn like stated above but I still look at the smooth base where the pstrap is welded to and the top range of the porcylyn as I am dialing it in. (I dont feel like cutting plugs up until I am close on the tune up) On the smooth base I look for a full color change. Basically a charcoal gray. On the porcyln I use a magnified light just to varify I do not see and signs of pre detonation or fuel spots.
If there are silver specs on the porcyln its a sign of pre detonation. If there are black spots its fuel and odds are the smooth base is a black color shopwing to rich.
Once I get these areas along with timing and heat range locked in then I will start cuting threads to look at the fuel ring.
Dave