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At what HP levels do lean rear cylinders start showing up at?

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Old 06-23-2010, 08:44 AM
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Default At what HP levels do lean rear cylinders start showing up at?

I've had a few midnight shifts lately to ponder over my current setup, and I'm trying to come up with answers to a few questions.
From what I've read, #7 & #8 are the first to go hotter, because of poor cooling flow around that area, correct?
At what horsepower level does that typically show its ugly head at? I know it's more specific than horsepower, but horsepower is a more universal reference.
Seems like the best fix for us is going DP but do you also run 1 step colder plug on the back ones at the same time, change the gap, or both?

My 402 is running 500hp NA. I already run NGK TR6's for NA use, which sounds about right based on the projected vs. non-projected thread here.
By the time I get to a 200 shot, I would have to believe by then, I'll be seeing lean issues back there. I think when I start working on tuning up to 200, I'm guessing I'll have B8EFS plugs in cylinders 1-6, and B9EFS plugs in 7 & 8. Does this sound close to where you were when you were around 700hp?

Knowledge now saves money later, right?

Last edited by V-10 Killer; 06-23-2010 at 10:02 AM.
Old 06-23-2010, 02:05 PM
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What is your nitrous setup? Nozzle or plate? Mine did not care for more than a 150 shot from a nozzle because of poor distribution. I had a huge difference in plug readings on fuel and timing both. A plate cleaned it up big time.
Old 06-23-2010, 03:00 PM
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I'm currently running a dual stage NX kit, plumbed to a NitrousDirect plate system. Fuel duties via Nitro Daves standalone fuse area cell.
I'm sure I'll have to find out what my setup likes, I'm just hoping this thread to get in the ballpark faster, and learn a bit to boot.
Old 06-23-2010, 03:11 PM
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cyl. 7-8 tend to go lean cause they see more n20.
Old 06-23-2010, 03:15 PM
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There is no really set in stone way to tell becasue every product differs in design/ distribution and intakes flow differently than others. You can port a set of heads and cause a cyl to go turbulent and the same goes for porting an intake.

On the LS platform we have seen around the 225+ mark is where the cyl's begin to show signs.
Old 06-23-2010, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Z284U2TRY
cyl. 7-8 tend to go lean cause they see more n20.

We used to think that but its not the case.

We have a 2 stage fogger and have had 1/2 the jet in #7 & 8 and thay still had more heat on them then the other 6.

Make sure you have flow to the back 2 steam holes. Block offs will make it worse.
Old 06-23-2010, 03:54 PM
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When you get serious about nitrous and tuning just keep an eye on those all the time.

#8 is always the 1st plug we pull, we pull all 8 every pass.
Old 06-23-2010, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by V-10 Killer
I'm currently running a dual stage NX kit, plumbed to a NitrousDirect plate system. Fuel duties via Nitro Daves standalone fuse area cell.
I'm sure I'll have to find out what my setup likes, I'm just hoping this thread to get in the ballpark faster, and learn a bit to boot.
First thing to do is get the NA tune as perfect as you can. I cant stress enough how much having a tune nailed NA first can help. From their Start with a small jet and Pull the plugs. See where your at.

This is where you start from. If all the plugs look even as far as the fuel line and the timing mark then distribution is good.

With the kit you listed I dont see you having these issues at anything under 200. BUT.. check the plugs.

If you dont feel completely comfortable get a good pic of them and either email them to me or post them. I have no problem taking some time to look at them and give you some feedback.

I have a question for you know.

Would it be helpful if i setup a cell number where everyone could get ahold of me for on the spot issues like helping dial in a tune or being able to text me a picture of a plug for advice? Not for sales or something thats going to take awhile but maybe a quick install question or anything to save you guys from waiting till monday or the next buisness day.
Old 06-23-2010, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
When you get serious about nitrous and tuning just keep an eye on those all the time.

#8 is always the 1st plug we pull, we pull all 8 every pass.


This says a lot.

How many people here have a tune they think is dialed in at the same level of ATV?
(Stalked a few of your posts here and on bullet ) And he still pulls ALL 8 plugs on EVERY pass. This just isnt something you can not do and hope for the best. This can save your motor and make you faster. No reason not too.
Old 06-23-2010, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
When you get serious about nitrous and tuning just keep an eye on those all the time.

#8 is always the 1st plug we pull, we pull all 8 every pass.
Hopefully you re-use them. If not, between spray and 8 plugs every pass, that'd be like $30 per run!

I really understand the logic of pulling them, but I wouldn't understand only using them for a pass or two.
Old 06-23-2010, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
We used to think that but its not the case.

We have a 2 stage fogger and have had 1/2 the jet in #7 & 8 and thay still had more heat on them then the other 6.

Make sure you have flow to the back 2 steam holes. Block offs will make it worse.
As a matter of fact, when I pulled the stock LS1 and put this one in, I did use the blockoff plugs... That seemed like the "in thing" back then lol
Hmm, maybe time to revisit that...
Old 06-23-2010, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris@NitroDaves
On the LS platform we have seen around the 225+ mark is where the cyl's begin to show signs.
Is that +225 over stock horsepower in general, or +225 worth of spray?
I just want to make sure I'm getting a clear message
Old 06-23-2010, 05:05 PM
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225hp worth or spray
Old 06-23-2010, 07:12 PM
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I had good luck with the nitro Dave's plate. On a 200 shot you should be fine as long as the tune up is good. But ATV is right 7 and 8 run hotter from less coolant flow. The same problem has been known to show up on max effort n/a engines. Poor distribution will only make it worse.
Old 06-23-2010, 08:13 PM
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what are you guys doing with the back two coolant holes then? How do you connect them or allow them to flow and not just block them off?
Old 06-23-2010, 08:50 PM
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LS1 coolant crossover or someone makes a 3an fitting that you can make your own set up with.
Old 06-23-2010, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Detroitmuscle
what are you guys doing with the back two coolant holes then? How do you connect them or allow them to flow and not just block them off?
im wondering the samething... if theres a problem with coolant flow on 7 and 8 how can we fix the problem??? i dont mind pulling plugs but now that i know im gunna run into a cooling problem on 7 and 8 id like to fix it b4 i try to spray more at it
Old 06-23-2010, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by rice4eatingnotdrivin
im wondering the samething... if theres a problem with coolant flow on 7 and 8 how can we fix the problem??? i dont mind pulling plugs but now that i know im gunna run into a cooling problem on 7 and 8 id like to fix it b4 i try to spray more at it


http://site.kurturbanperformance.com.../archives/1082

http://www.kurturbanperformance.com/...-adapters.html


Or a Old style LS1 crossover.
Old 06-23-2010, 09:15 PM
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thanks for the info...
Old 06-24-2010, 12:35 AM
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Default pulling plugs

Now when you say pull the plugs do you mean after making a FULL pass just stop the car at the end of the track and pull the plugs or can i do a few seconds on the nitrous then pull them to check the plugs



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