jman54002

iTrader: (11)

Hey guys I have a 02 trans am, stock ls1.full boltons, I have a nitrous outlet plate 75mm. with a 52 nitrous jet and a 33 fuel jet. my a/f shows 13.0 to 13.1 on a pull. I have a new racetronic fuel pump and hot wire. I am pulling 9 degrees and running br7s' plugs. I have read that the factory jetting is always rich? any ideal why so lean. Bottle pressure is 950psi. n/a a/f is at wide open 12 to 11.5. I have no problem adding fuel ....just surprised I need to on a factory jetting. Any input would be helpful.

Johnv

maybe check your fuel solenoid is operating, do a pull with the nitrous bottle closed and see if you go rich when window switch operates.

brandoz28

iTrader: (3)

yup, make sure that the fuel solenoid is working, and you need to read the plugs, not rely on the A/F gauge

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

We run our kit there but I would not reccomend anyone on here doing that.

Why so rich N/A ?

If its 11.5 N/A and 13.1 with N20 on then I agree with these guys the fuel noid may not be opening.

Bet it hits hard that way. LOL

MontecarloDrag

iTrader: (3)

If fuel solenoid wasn't working the engine would be destroyed by now. Nitrous with no extra fuel melts pistons within seconds.
You may have a clogged filter or a fuel supply problem. Your solenoid may be too small for the shot or isn't opening 100%. check for correct jets

The best way to troubleshoot for now is install a bigger fuel jet and do a run. If AFR doesn't improve you have a fuel problem,

Install an analog fuel pressure sender with 0-5V and hook it to your datalogger to record fuel pressure during a nitrous run.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Wrong.

We have done it with my car, didnt hurt anything 150 shot and no extra fuel.
Was very lean and didnt run very fast but it didnt melt.

If the A/F is rich on motor and you hit it with 100 shot it wont melt.

jman54002

iTrader: (11)

I will check these ideal out thanks for the input.

BigBirdLS1

Is it possible that you need injectors?

jman54002

iTrader: (11)

nope wet kit.

MontecarloDrag

iTrader: (3)

Wrong?
I respect your opinion, but last year I saw an engine run with 150 wet, 3 pistons melted. it was destroyed.
The fuel solenoid wasn't stuck, but the standalone pump didn't work and the engine ran with no extra fuel (same effect as a stuck-closed 'noid).

I don't want to start a war, but It's common knowledge that lack of fuel + nitrous = bad things
That's why vendors jet kits to the rich side. Thats why they sell fuel pressure safety switches.

I can't guarantee it will melt, but I'm sure bad things happen

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

No war needed.

If it has to much timing and just enough fuel to melt it it will.

Think about it, nitrous isnt flamable so how would it burn something up? it needs fuel to burn, if there isnt any then you get no fire.

Do I want anyone to try it? nope
We made a mistake when we 1st got our FAST and forgot to add the fuel into the nitrous table. We run our timing really low and I think thats why nothing was hurt but I made a 1/4 mile pass and it slowed down half a second and was way down on mph.
The log showed like 15:1 A/F all the way down the track. Pulled the plugs and nothing was hurt at all.

I always say to much fuel, to much timing hurts more parts than lean and low timing ever will. (we have learned that the hard way)
This is all just my opinion.

MontecarloDrag

iTrader: (3)

That's the problem: There is fuel... not from the solenoid but from injectors.

N2O isn't flammable by itself, just like oxygen. But in the presence of a burning fuel oxygen is released. That oxygen rises the burning temperature a lot by oxidation (like a oxyacetylene torch), just by adding oxygen the temperature of combustion rises dramatically for the same amount of fuel.
The extra fuel absorbs the heat and makes the extra horsepower.

So, if you inject nitrous into an engine with no extra fuel, it won't make more power and will be dangerously lean.
That's the reason the stock RPM limiter is dangerous when nitrous is activated.

What can happen? It depends on how much nitrous is injected, the final AFR and ignition timing.

1904gto

iTrader: (4)

didint run a fpss on the standalone?
if he had that it wouldnt of melted it i assume
just my 2 cents

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

I agree.

To much of any of the 3 (nitrous, fuel, timing) can cause your motor to go boom !

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Never been a fan of those. Just never heard of them saving anyones motor I guess.
Show me a "fast" nitrous car that has one.

1904gto

iTrader: (4)

might be true but for the extra 35 bucks y not, ya know?
and i honestly dont know any fast nitrous cars with them
so u got me on that one tushay

ShiznityZ28

iTrader: (11)

lack of fuel does not melt anything to much timming melts stuff. a fpss will cost you rounds and not save you ****.

jman54002

iTrader: (11)

Just to update all... I put my NOS plate back on and the A/F went to 11.9 to 12.1.
Before doing the switch back I checked fuel out of the noid and work perfect. The Nitrous Outlet plate is "used" so maybe something plugging it. I will be checking that next. Also on a side note I am not new to Nitrous ...been running it for over 19 years. Just all ways had it on a big block carb. car. The fuel injection performance thing is a little new to me. And yes I know how to read plugs and have been doing so. I double checked my A/F on N/a and it is 13.4 to 13.8 which I think is good. Thanks for all the input because it does help and is not falling a deaf ears.. Thanks again.

1904gto

iTrader: (4)

i dont get where your coming from cost you rounds and not save it? could u elaborate i dont understand man

ShiznityZ28

iTrader: (11)

I have only saw fps's fail when you get the quick spike which then turns everything off then once it recovers it spikes again rince repeat like you own cool progressor. And since most cars die from to much timming not to little fuel its not saving you...