Ok, i posted my 1/8th mile times yesterday, and decided to try the car out in the back roads today. So heres my problem. My window switch is set up to start sprayin at 3200rpm and off at 5800. When the nitrous comes on at 3200, it feels good, but around 5k it starts to die off. I'm shifting about 55-5800rpm, and it hits good in the next gear but then does the same at around the same rpm. I tried it 2 times with the same results. So, what do i need to check, or look for?? I'm lost!! please help!!! thanks

 

What plugs?
What gap?
Bottle pressure?
Stock timing if I remember right?

 

ngk tr6
.35 i think
still don't have a pressure gauge, but was more than the other night. I could actually hear the line pressurize when i hit the remote opener
and yep, stock timing

 

First thing I would do is change to br6ef plugs (non-projected tips but same heat). I think the gap is fine. I also think it could be bottle pressure related. Did you check pressure before and after the run, maybe during?

 

I'll change the plugs tomorrow, i thought i had the non projected tip plugs, can't rely on the guys at advance! As far as pressure, i'm gona have to get a gauge. So, even if it dies off at top end and then comes back strong after i shift, you think it might be pressure related? any recommendations for a good gauge?

 

This is the same thing I said in your last post get those TR6s out and throw them in the trash.

I would also check all your grounds. You could be losing amps as the load increases. I would make sure you are using a 10 or 12 gauge wire for you ground wire.
We had a bad ground on a buddys car one time and was causing issues like this.
What is your timming?
What was the bottle pressure the first of the run and the end?

 

Are u talking about the ground to the solenoids, I'll check that in the morning, i think it is 12 gauge, and it just goes to a ground lug on the pass fender. The timing is stock(no tune) and no gauge. I know i know, I'm just getting into the nitrous, and i still have alot to learn and do! So u had a car doing this and it was a bad ground??

 

Yes was a bad ground. I would ground your Noids to the Frame take a grinder and clean off the paint. I would ground the fuel and nitrous noid together on the same ground bolt so if the ground doesn work then the kit will not work at all.

 

What shot are you running. This is wet kit I may have missed it?
If you are going to run spray I would find someone in your area to tune your car and have the timming retarded.

 

Sure hope you aren't going lean in the high end rpms! If you are then you only have a few runs left!

 

I would not spray it anymore until you redo the grounds,Get some plugs then get a wideband for the car dynotune makes a good digital one or get someone to tune your car on the dyno and read your plugs. Im worried to that your going lean up top and you could blow your motor.

 

yea, i was worried about that. I'm not going to spray it until i get it tuned.

 

You sprayed it with no timing change? How big was the shot? Ditch the shitty plugs.

 

We also need to know fuel/nitrous pressure. Seems like you're going at this whole ordeal blind, which is dangerous...

 

If you have a temp. gun you can check the bottle that way 94* is about 1,000 psi.

 

Would it be possible (or likely) that it's tach error?
It's pretty popular belief that our tachs are pretty inaccurate.
Hell, my car last time at the track was showing almost 6k when it was shifting at 5k (read via HP Tuners). Maybe everythings working right, but the tachs leading you astray...

 

If i didn't make it clear in my previous post, I refer to the tach because I meant, maybe the window switch really is cutting the system when it's programmed. Try a higher setting after you get things ironed out and see if that changes where it seems to fall on its face.

 

^^^ Good point as well... Throwing a shift light in the car (if you don't already have one) is the way to find out if this is the problem. The tach is slow, the shift light won't be