Any downsides going wet plate to nozzle?
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From: Michigan (Macomb or Lansing)
Any downsides going wet plate to nozzle? I am going to be upgrading to a fast 102 intake along with a fast 102 tb. They dont make plates that big yet, so I was wondering if I should even bother with a plate or just get a nozzle.
They are very cheap and vesitile, i think i could possibly stealth my setup, by mounting it underneath my intake tract.
Otherwise, are there any other options for a wet kit on a 102 tb?
Dont plan on spraying more than 150 btw.
They are very cheap and vesitile, i think i could possibly stealth my setup, by mounting it underneath my intake tract.
Otherwise, are there any other options for a wet kit on a 102 tb?
Dont plan on spraying more than 150 btw.
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What do you mean no plates that big...and we can custom build larger ones if needed 
http://nitrousoutlet.com/catalog/pro...7&product=4111
http://nitrousoutlet.com/catalog/pro...7&product=4111
Here is a link to a 92mm plate kit they make them @NitrousOutlet. Scroll to the bottom of the page.
http://nitrousoutlet.com/catalog/cat...=14§ion=37
Nozzle is to just make sure the placement of the nozzle when it sprays it get evenly distributed in the intake. Nitrous Outlet also makes the money maker kit which hides the nozzle and noids.
http://nitrousoutlet.com/catalog/cat...=14§ion=37
Nozzle is to just make sure the placement of the nozzle when it sprays it get evenly distributed in the intake. Nitrous Outlet also makes the money maker kit which hides the nozzle and noids.
I just like the plate kits because the installs are so much cleaner and there's no guesswork as to where the nitrous/fuel is going (the angle of the nozzle, if it's moving, etc).
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From: Wichita falls Texas
They do take more time to make the install look as clean as a plate. But they are very effective. You will want to mount it as far back as you can in the intake path. Also some care has to be taking to make sure the nozzle is to going to move under pressure.
For no more than a 150 shot I would prefer a nozzle to begin with.
For no more than a 150 shot I would prefer a nozzle to begin with.
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Verdad Gallardo One more quick question, would I need a progressive controller for a 200 to prevent lean spike or would it be able to handle it? I realize this is hard to say without tuning and seeing whats going on but from personal experience im some input can be given
A progressive controller isn't going to pevent a lean spike, it's simply going to pulse the nitrous so you can ramp it from a certain percentage of 200 upto the full 200. I would strongly consider that if you are still on a stock bottom end (I assume you are).
If you are concerned about lean spikes, make sure that both your nitrous and fuel lines from the solenoids are short (preferably with the fuel line being shorter than the nitrous line if you are exceptionally concerned about lean spikes). Also, some companies make controllers (the HSW interface is the one that comes to mind immediately) that can delay the nitrous solenoid in order to ensure that the fuel and nitrous reach the intake at the same time (this may be what you meant by progressive).
Of course, the info above is only useful if you actually have a lean spike, all may work well. Be sure to have the right plugs and a good tune (read: learn to read your plugs and do it often to see what the motor wants). This is especially important with a stock bottom end car if you want it to live.
Sorry I keep editing this... You're also probably going to want to add a second pump in the tank or throw a stand alone in the car.
If you are concerned about lean spikes, make sure that both your nitrous and fuel lines from the solenoids are short (preferably with the fuel line being shorter than the nitrous line if you are exceptionally concerned about lean spikes). Also, some companies make controllers (the HSW interface is the one that comes to mind immediately) that can delay the nitrous solenoid in order to ensure that the fuel and nitrous reach the intake at the same time (this may be what you meant by progressive).
Of course, the info above is only useful if you actually have a lean spike, all may work well. Be sure to have the right plugs and a good tune (read: learn to read your plugs and do it often to see what the motor wants). This is especially important with a stock bottom end car if you want it to live.
Sorry I keep editing this... You're also probably going to want to add a second pump in the tank or throw a stand alone in the car.
thank you for all your info so far, i was having an issue with the pump dropping off around 5800, i already got the harness and second pump from texas speed to pull voltage directly from the alternator and run 2 pumps. Yes im stock bottom end and the HSW controller is what i meant as well to help the n2o hit same time as fuel as you stated. I'm still on stock fuel rails as well if that really makes a difference? I have a good friend that will help me read plugs as hes very familiar with it.
How much power does the car make now? Are you going to pull all of the fuel for the kit off the rail? If so, you may want to invest in redoing some more on the fuel system.
If I weren't using my stand alone I'd be running a -8 AN feed from the tank, through my Summit rails with a -8 crossover, to a -6 return to a regulator in the front of the car using the stock feed as the return.
If it all comes off of the rail, I'd be worried about the rear mounted regulator moving fast enough.
BTW, you'll have to be very concious of the tune and what the car's doing to keep the stock bottom end living, especially if you bump the shot up anymore. Get tuning software to be able to log all of your passes, look at the plugs, and be able to make educated adjustments based on what your data is telling you.
If I weren't using my stand alone I'd be running a -8 AN feed from the tank, through my Summit rails with a -8 crossover, to a -6 return to a regulator in the front of the car using the stock feed as the return.
If it all comes off of the rail, I'd be worried about the rear mounted regulator moving fast enough.
BTW, you'll have to be very concious of the tune and what the car's doing to keep the stock bottom end living, especially if you bump the shot up anymore. Get tuning software to be able to log all of your passes, look at the plugs, and be able to make educated adjustments based on what your data is telling you.
thats answers my question about the rails then, the car makes 330 n/a but i havent gotten to finish the tune b/c of the pump being weak around 5800, reason for the harness and 2nd pump being ordered. It was making right at 435 on a 100 shot cutting off at the 5800 mark.
yes 330 through a th400 and on a mustang dyno as well. Cam specs are a custom grind cam from predator z on here 231/235 .617/.621 110+1 LSA and the converter was one i got from another member off here. Its supposed to be the yank eliminator 3600 but is more like a 4k stall from what we are seeing for my setup. Also no times from the track, the trans is bone stock and i have to get a shift kit in to hold first so it doesnt shift on its own around 4800. That and we only have an 1/8 track that is built on a swamp with terrible prep so im trying to get everything done and get to KCIR.
Wow... There's no way that converter is the same one as in my car (assuming the motor is ok) if it stalls/flashes to 4000 on the motor. Don't take this the wrong way, but that number seems awful low for a 6.0 with a mid sized cam, even through a TH-400 (but a dyno is only a diagnostic/tuning tool... Just thought that sounded off).
Does the thing run good? Any races won against cars that dyno'ed significantly higher?
I don't mean to bust you ***** about this, I just want to make sure everything else is mechanically sound before you go spray the car hard.
Edit: Sorry I missed the part about no track times.
Does the thing run good? Any races won against cars that dyno'ed significantly higher?
I don't mean to bust you ***** about this, I just want to make sure everything else is mechanically sound before you go spray the car hard.
Edit: Sorry I missed the part about no track times.
Last edited by ryarbrough; Aug 16, 2010 at 01:25 PM.
yes car runs hard, i sprayed a measly 75 shot against my buddys camaro yesterday who has an el toro cam with performabuilt level 2 trans and yank 4k converter. I pulled away from him quite a bit. Its ok im not taking it the right way but u do understand its going through a mustang dyno which is applying a load on the car right? its not like being on a dynojet that just free rolls.
My last setup t56, ms4 and 150 car only made 508rwhp on this same dyno and a lot of people said the same thing bout that being low but didnt understand the type of dyno i was using. I never got a chance to go put it on a dynojet for my bragging rights hp numbers before it blew up.
heres a sheet from the last setup n/a and on 150 shot:
My last setup t56, ms4 and 150 car only made 508rwhp on this same dyno and a lot of people said the same thing bout that being low but didnt understand the type of dyno i was using. I never got a chance to go put it on a dynojet for my bragging rights hp numbers before it blew up.
heres a sheet from the last setup n/a and on 150 shot:
Gotcha... That dyno must just be REALLY conservative (even for a Mustang)...
If it runs good with other cars that should make similar power, that's all that matters!!!!
BTW - What was up with that second dyno you posted???
If it runs good with other cars that should make similar power, that's all that matters!!!!
BTW - What was up with that second dyno you posted???
spinnin aint winnin lol, had a hard time getting the car not to spin on the rollers even sand bagged and a couple friends sitting on the back. Yes this dyno is extremely conservative, my last setup i pulled away from a cobra that was making just over 600rwhp on dynojet numbers. Nothing is wrong with the car.....yet knock on wood.