Mac 2002 SS

iTrader: (6)

I'm a NA guy, but I have been thinking about using a 100-125 dry system to dip into the 10's one day. I just installed a set of 36 lbs FAST injectors and F13 cam, SS4000 yank. I haven't been to the track with the new set up yet cause I have been working like crazy ( which is a good thing ) .

My question is ,will my 36lbs injectors be enough to support a 100/125 shot ?

Would it better to have it come on in stages , like with a progressive controller or just a push button set up ?

I was thinking about a push button set-up . I can leave the line on motor ,then spray in once I hit 2nd. IDK, I'm just throwing ideas around.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

BigBirdLS1

To answer that question I can say with almost 100% certainty that yes you will have enough injector. My car is in sig and even with the stock pump I had plenty of fuel and my fuel system is bone stock except for the FAST 36# injectors I have. At 502rwhp on a 100 dry shot I was at 44% duty cycle WOT at 6500rpm. I hope this helps you man

TurboMark8

have you been tuned for those injectors? Nitrous isnt dependent on injectors, but the tune and the amount of fuel and timing that you have in the tune when the nitrous is activated. Remember that nitrous (by itself) will lean out the AFR's, so more fuel AT the time the nitrous is injected (via a wet shot, increasing fuel pressure, or via 12v input signal on a tune) You could run your other injectors with that big of a shot (wet or dry) as long as you tune for it. Normally, pull about 1-1.5* of timing per 50shot dry/ 80hp wet shot. Go 1 step colder on the plugs (never platinum plugs: they stay hot and can preignite nitrous) per 80hp dry/110hp wet shot to be safe.
With an auto, I would run a push button as the torque converter can absorb a little of the hit.

NitrousExpress

iTrader: (4)

No. Just no.

A dry shot does depend on the injectors. The rest is fairly confusing and/or wrong.

Don't mean to be rude but misinformation is a huge issue on this site.

NitrousExpress

iTrader: (4)

Hey mac,

I think you would be much happier with a simple single nozzle wet system. You can run it with a progressive if you would like. More than just bringing it in second, which you can do if you wish, you can also adjust the ramp to really help the car put the power down. This is also much safer and more consistent than a push activated button. If you simply like the idea of a dry we have an excellent system. I can go over some of the details on how to properly set one up if you like via a phone call or Pm.

Also to answer your other question the 36# injectors should cover the 100-125 shot you would spray.

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

What is the injectors duty cycle now.
What kind of power are you making on motor?
What is your mind set for focusing on a dry set up?
What are your tuning capabilities?
What tuning software are you using?
What are your future goals with the car?

At 100-125 honestly you should not need to progress the system or split it into stages. If you do you really need to focus on suspension and tires. If mostly playing on the street I could see possibly needing to bring it in. If its majority track you will be spraying keep in mind 3/4 of the race is in the first 60 ft so the sooner you can hit it with everything the better your pass will be.

Answer my questions and Ill make some good suggestions for you.
Dave

TurboMark8

What are you talking about? what misinformation? the misinformation is that you automaticly need larger injectors when you run nitrous. This is WRONG. if your IDC's are less than 80% when you tune for nitrous, YOU DONT NEED LARGER injectors.
Just throwing in larger injectors will richen up your AFR's throught the entire powerband, at all times, resulting in power loss and fouled plugs.
-you want more fuel AT the time the nitrous is injected: Correct: nitrous leans your AFR's out and you need to richen it up either via:
a tune with an input to know when nitrous is injected
an "up" in fuel pressure (like the zex dry kits). Higher pressure @ the injector will artificially increase the size of the injector (ie. 240cc injectors (measured at 43.5psi) will flow 280cc @ 60psi.
Or a wet system
Dont run platinum plugs.....they stay hot and this is a fact. I have personally seen quite a few people backfire into their intake, due to nitrous preigniting with platinum plugs.
going a step or two colder on the plugs reduces the likelyhood of detonation incase fuel flow is interupted or the ECU leans out the mixture for some unknown reason.
And an unlocked converter will cusion the instant torque increase that nitrous creates

I would of thought someone from NX would be more concerned with misinforming people

gillbot

iTrader: (27)

On my cammed car with stock injectors I was at 108% duty cycle. You will need bigger injectors with a cammed car and a dry hit, only scanning can tell you how much more you will need though.

TurboMark8

you could always up the fuel pressure to lower your IDC's

NitrousExpress

iTrader: (4)

I do not wish to get into an argument over this.

I did not state that you "automatically need bigger injectors". I said that a dry system does depend on the injectors for fuel enrichment. They do.

Why would anyone just stick larger injectors in their car? That isn't even an option I'm not sure where you thought I would recommend that.

The reason for a colder plug is to dissipate heat faster through the head so that does not detonate. Nothing to do with interrupted fuel flow.

No platinum plugs do not "stay hot" and no it is not a fact. This plug myth stems from when the old plugs had welded the platinum on and the increased heat from nitrous or FI would melt the weld and the platinum would break off in the motor. Now NGK and most other plug manufactures use laser welding and this is no longer an issue.

If everything else about the plug is correct for a nitrous application, platinum will work fine. No different then all the guys that spray on iridium plugs. The big reason most do not recommend them is the are expensive and you should be pulling and replacing them fairly often if you are tuning and running the car hard.

This information is from Brandon @ NGK. He is the gentleman I refer to with all my plug questions. Very intelligent guy and great to deal with.

I you do want to discuss further PM and im happy continue the discussion.

TurboMark8

Colder plugs have everything to do will disrupted fuel flow. if something happens to where your fuel pressure drops fast and leans out your fuel mixture, it is safer to run a colder plug and will give you a tiny bit more of a buffer if something happens.....especially if you are running your stock fuel pump.
Iridium plugs cost more than platinum plugs....... so why isnt everyone saying not to run iridium plugs??? I've personally seen people damage their engines running platinum plugs, and it wasn't due to a direct lean/tuning problem issue. The platinum can react with nitrous and cause hot-spots and deposits from a chemical reaction on the electrode. This can increase the resistance of the plug and cause the spark to last longer than desired. at Higher RPMs, the spark can overlap onto the begining of the next combustion event. If the fuel is sprayed in in a broad fasion (like carb or TBI, or with wet nitrous) the residual spark plug tip heat (from high temps of combusting nitrous in the fuel/air mitxure) paired with the increased resistance or lingering spark, can pre-ignite the mixture.....