The car runs PERFECT off the bottle..no missing or cutting up at all..Sprayed the 100 shot yesterday and it was all jumpy like it was getting nitrous then not getting nitrous..Not sure what the problem is??? very confused..this is the first time ive sprayed the car without the big converter..i had a 3500 stall but now its back to stock..worked fine before the converter change..

im running a HSW nozzle kit btw with a nitrous outlet dual window switch..the car does NOT have a fpss.. and the nozzle is in the same spot its always been.

 

Could be something as simple as a loose wire...had that happen before

 

msybe its running way too rich..

 

Has the system worked fine prior to the converter change? Any other changes to the system? Check bottle weight?

Nick

 

First thing I'd check is the wiring and whatever you are using for a WOT switch. Bad grounds, loose connections, corroded switch... I lost an important second round race I should have won last year because of this very reason.

 

The bottle is at full weight (10lbs)..there has been no other changes to the car..I'm running a nitrous outlet dual window switch which has my WOT switch set to the PCM when it reads WOT..all my connection are soldered together..I'll double check wires but like I said they are ALL soldered.


I don't understand why if the car was getting to much fuel it would cut out?? Wouldn't the car cut out ALL the time if that was the case?? And not just on the bottle??? :shrug:

 

Ah so it's getting an on/off signal from the PCM, as opposed to reading TPS voltage?

 

No, if getting too much fuel from something like an N20 kit, it will just bog, won't cut out as you describe. disconnect what you have installed, besides having the solenoids grounded. By-pass the points of failure by running the power wire off the solenoids inside the car to a rocker type switch.. Off the rocker switch use or hook up a push button you can run with your hand.. When testing, keep the bottle off on your first run, go out arm the switch and in about 2nd gear after 3K rpm, hit the button.. Car should fall on its face because it is getting all the extra fuel and you know it is working then.. Now, disarm the switch, turn on bottle and repeat the steps above.. If it does not cut out then you know it is something in your wiring.. Just because it is soldered does not mean it is a good, clean or hooked up correctly. Can go into more detail, but off to a meeting.

 

Thanks for the advice I'll check it out this weekend..and yes it is connected to the TPS***** to many beers haha

 

Id check your plugs, the porcelain was hairlined cracked on one of my plugs and it was causing the car to break up on the dyno only on spray. Replaced the plug and it ran flawles..

 

You might also want to reset your TPS switch - re-initialize it or whatever, since they can "drift" over time.

 

I would reset your DUAL STAGE. make sure its not on a different setting. Check your plugs, What is your AF during the run?

 

had the same problem before, more like surging on and off down the track. Mine ended up being a bad solenoid. Nitro Dave replaced it. Problem fixed. nitro dave is a stand up guy with a stand up company. Check all the wiring, because that is a common problem, if it all looks good then it could be that your fuel pressure regulator is doing its job and your fuel pressure is dropping too low. If not those or your plugs, might be a solenoid.