Ran the car on spray today while having it tuned by FROST. Excellent guy to work with. We ran into a problem with it running very fat on the bottle with the recommended pills from nitrous outlet. Motor was perfect n/a. AFR was in the 9's. The recommended fuel was #38. We first backed it down to a #35 and was still too much and finally ended up with a #33 in the fuel side. This was all for a 150 hit. Nitrous side was a #62. Any clue why so far off? After switching to the #33 and having an inital lean spike near 12:1 it still continued to ran fat up top which we believed was due to bottle pressure loss. In high rpms it was around 10 - 10.5. Im guessing a NANO would help that? Final numbers were 337/339 n/a and 438/469 on the bottle. Only other issues we had was the purge solenoid stuck open. Kit is fairly new (new in usage not time, ive had the kit for years but just recently began to use it.) Im using a filter but maybe trash got in the solenoid? Anyway to open it up and check?

 

So looks like you only ended up with a 100 shot. What was your bottle pressure?

 

close to 1000

 

More like 950

 

kinked line? might be sprayin hard off the bat till the line cant keep up... what kit are you running? hows the feen line ran from the tank?

 

Its a Nitrpus OUtlet plate kit. Like they're standard 75-200 kit with a 85mm plate. The line is run through the interior along the passenger side of the vehicle through the firewall to the solenoid. The purge purges very hard, well till is stuck open. The inital hit isnt the strongest point. It runs strong and consistant just not as strong as I would expect for 150. Im wondering if nitrous outlets numbers are at the crank not the wheels. So the 150 hit through my loose 4000 stall is more like 101 at the wheels for me.

 

Nitrous Outlet is rated at the wheels.

All their pill ratings on fuel side are way rich for 200 and under, above 200 they are closer.

What plugs and what gap are you running?

You should have picked up 150 easy to the tire, how

 

What did the plugs show? Did he read them?

 

We did not read the plugs given how rich the car was. I am running BR7EF plugs gapped at 32.

 

Just because the wideband says it was rich doesn't mean it was.

Tune the motor with a wideband, tune the nitrous with the plugs.

 

It was running rich. Very rich at first.

 

^^^^ what he said....

As far as plugs go I think your right on,#7 at .32 is fine. Learn how to tune using the plugs, you will not regret it!

edit- stick with 950 on the bottle pressure, less drop over the run will produce a more consistent tune-up

 

I understand that using the plugs is the "BEST" way but that is not what was done. So I have no information on what the plugs showed. Any other ideas on something to check for the loss of power? He pulled 8* i believe for the 150 shot.

 

Could the filter be causing a restriction do you think? Maybe 3 bottles through the filter.

 

I'm guess your converter wasn't locked on the dyno to only see 100hp increase. 8* is good amount of timing to pull for a 150. The rule of thumb is 2* per 50 shot so in your case would be 6*. You might find a little power in the timing but that would take reading the plugs.

 

Well the first nitrous pull the converter unlocked itself. But I want to say that on the final (most powerful) run the converter was locked.

 

You really need to know for sure. My car dyno'd 382 rwhp with a th350 and hitting it with a 200 shot Nitrous Outlet plate it made 558. Converter and the 12bolt was eating up the hp.

 

On the final run he locked the converter I know that for sure. If it stayed locked it is hard to say.

 

That might be your issue to look at before you start tearing into the nitrous kit.

 

Thats what I figured. To me its okay if that is the issue because the converter will not be locked when using the kit on the track so it doesnt bother me. My main goal is not to get good numbers on the dyno but mainly to just check for proper operation. The system seemed to work well other than just being really rich starting off. Im happy with it. I am going to disassemble the system and reposition a few things. I dont quite like my original configuration. Onto the part of the stuck purge solenoid, I think a new one is in order. When activating it, sometimes it would respond and click sometimes it would make no noise at all and when it did click, it wasnt the click i was used to hearing, it was different, seemed slower and not as snappy.