Update: Put some power down!
Update: Put some power down! Alright, I've just about had it with my entire nitrous system, and I need some reassurance.
Backstory:
Basically, have a nitrous outlet 10 lb bottle kit, window switch, purge, etc. etc.
Everything wired by a Nitrous Outlet vendor here in AZ (Sean at TopGear motorsports).
Had some NANO problems, and NANO ended up sending me a brand new fitting/tube setup for my nitrous bottle. The whole situation was handled expertly by NANO, and I couldn't have felt better taken care of, so
for that one NANO 
Today at the dyno however, I ran into some major issues with the nitrous solenoid (I believe). Car sat in the 90 degree phoenix sun for about an hour, so by the time I went to strap it to the dyno and pressurize the nitrous bottle first. My inline pressure gauge was right at the ~1100 psi mark. As I opened the NANO, I didn't hear it pressurize (nor did I see a pressure change on the gauge), and I expected so because the pressure was already high due to sitting in the sun.
Figure it shouldn't be a big deal. Purged the system with both NANO and Nitrous bottles fully open. Beautiful white jet shoots out of my hood. Figured it was ok for a pull.
Get into third gear, arm the nitrous, and goes pig rich on the dyno. No nitrous hit. Repeat the same pull, and receive the same outcome. This nitrous solenoid has been at least inspected, if not replaced by nitrous outlet in the past couple months. Not used since it has been replaced.
Was the pressure too high for the solenoid? Furthermore, if that is considered above and beyond what pressures the entire system can perform at, what needs to happen so it can take all of this?
Sincerely,
Nitrous Newb
Backstory:
Basically, have a nitrous outlet 10 lb bottle kit, window switch, purge, etc. etc.
Everything wired by a Nitrous Outlet vendor here in AZ (Sean at TopGear motorsports).
Had some NANO problems, and NANO ended up sending me a brand new fitting/tube setup for my nitrous bottle. The whole situation was handled expertly by NANO, and I couldn't have felt better taken care of, so
for that one NANO Today at the dyno however, I ran into some major issues with the nitrous solenoid (I believe). Car sat in the 90 degree phoenix sun for about an hour, so by the time I went to strap it to the dyno and pressurize the nitrous bottle first. My inline pressure gauge was right at the ~1100 psi mark. As I opened the NANO, I didn't hear it pressurize (nor did I see a pressure change on the gauge), and I expected so because the pressure was already high due to sitting in the sun.
Figure it shouldn't be a big deal. Purged the system with both NANO and Nitrous bottles fully open. Beautiful white jet shoots out of my hood. Figured it was ok for a pull.
Get into third gear, arm the nitrous, and goes pig rich on the dyno. No nitrous hit. Repeat the same pull, and receive the same outcome. This nitrous solenoid has been at least inspected, if not replaced by nitrous outlet in the past couple months. Not used since it has been replaced.
Was the pressure too high for the solenoid? Furthermore, if that is considered above and beyond what pressures the entire system can perform at, what needs to happen so it can take all of this?
Sincerely,
Nitrous Newb
Last edited by Gaunt; Apr 9, 2011 at 02:05 PM.
I had a similar issue when I first got my Nano kit. The solenoid is good for 1100psi I believe and it was just too strong for the solenoid and it wouldn't open so Brad regulated the bottle to 980-1000psi and no problems since.
Last edited by Detoxx03; Apr 2, 2011 at 07:57 PM.
1100 psi and higher can cause a nitrous solenoid to NOT open...
The NANO system regulates pressure at 1050 which you exceeded with your Nitrous bottle pressure.
You're fortunate that this failure occured. At those pressures if the solenoid accually did open, you stood a very good chance that the solenoid would freeze and stay open after the pull. Then you would have even greater problems.
Never let your bottles bake in the sun...
The NANO system regulates pressure at 1050 which you exceeded with your Nitrous bottle pressure.
You're fortunate that this failure occured. At those pressures if the solenoid accually did open, you stood a very good chance that the solenoid would freeze and stay open after the pull. Then you would have even greater problems.
Never let your bottles bake in the sun...
I had a similar problem with my bottle getting too hot at Fontana in SoCal in the Summer but I saw that the pressure was too hot so I did not spray. I iced down the bottle and purged it down to 1050 and did not use the NANO until after a couple passes because it was not needed. Once the pressure started dropping I began using the NANO.
In hot climates you need to be very careful with too much pressure. I thought I read where NANO now sends a blanket or something to keep from running too hot for those of us who live in hot parts of the country. I need to pick up one of these. You listening NANO, lol. j/k I will be giving you guys a call to order one soon.
In hot climates you need to be very careful with too much pressure. I thought I read where NANO now sends a blanket or something to keep from running too hot for those of us who live in hot parts of the country. I need to pick up one of these. You listening NANO, lol. j/k I will be giving you guys a call to order one soon.
Thanks for the replies guys,
And the system is mounted on the tunnel behind my front seats. Nitrous bottle on the bottom, NANO bottle right on top.
I would rather be my own bottle opener, and just reach backwards to open both.
Well, I guess that's good to know that the solenoid was supposed to stay closed...
But honestly, that leaves me a little worried that it got that high at only being in the sun for an hour at a fraction of what we get for summer heat... Definitely have to be careful with this stuff.
Here is separate, but possibly related question. Isn't the purge routed through the nitrous solenoid? So if my purge worked, shouldn't the nitrous work? Again, I claim ignorance, so school me if I'm wrong.
And the system is mounted on the tunnel behind my front seats. Nitrous bottle on the bottom, NANO bottle right on top.
I would rather be my own bottle opener, and just reach backwards to open both.
Well, I guess that's good to know that the solenoid was supposed to stay closed...
But honestly, that leaves me a little worried that it got that high at only being in the sun for an hour at a fraction of what we get for summer heat... Definitely have to be careful with this stuff.
Here is separate, but possibly related question. Isn't the purge routed through the nitrous solenoid? So if my purge worked, shouldn't the nitrous work? Again, I claim ignorance, so school me if I'm wrong.
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Alright, I've just about had it with my entire nitrous system, and I need some reassurance.
Backstory:
Basically, have a nitrous outlet 10 lb bottle kit, window switch, purge, etc. etc.
Everything wired by a Nitrous Outlet vendor here in AZ (Sean at TopGear motorsports).
Had some NANO problems, and NANO ended up sending me a brand new fitting/tube setup for my nitrous bottle. The whole situation was handled expertly by NANO, and I couldn't have felt better taken care of, so for that one NANO Thank you!
Today at the dyno however, I ran into some major issues with the nitrous solenoid (I believe). Car sat in the 90 degree phoenix sun for about an hour, so by the time I went to strap it to the dyno and pressurize the nitrous bottle first. My inline pressure gauge was right at the ~1100 psi mark. As I opened the NANO, I didn't hear it pressurize (nor did I see a pressure change on the gauge), and I expected so because the pressure was already high due to sitting in the sun.
Figure it shouldn't be a big deal. Purged the system with both NANO and Nitrous bottles fully open. Beautiful white jet shoots out of my hood. Figured it was ok for a pull.
Get into third gear, arm the nitrous, and goes pig rich on the dyno. No nitrous hit. Repeat the same pull, and receive the same outcome. This nitrous solenoid has been at least inspected, if not replaced by nitrous outlet in the past couple months. Not used since it has been replaced.
Was the pressure too high for the solenoid? Furthermore, if that is considered above and beyond what pressures the entire system can perform at, what needs to happen so it can take all of this?
Sincerely,
Nitrous Newb
Backstory:
Basically, have a nitrous outlet 10 lb bottle kit, window switch, purge, etc. etc.
Everything wired by a Nitrous Outlet vendor here in AZ (Sean at TopGear motorsports).
Had some NANO problems, and NANO ended up sending me a brand new fitting/tube setup for my nitrous bottle. The whole situation was handled expertly by NANO, and I couldn't have felt better taken care of, so
for that one NANO Thank you! Today at the dyno however, I ran into some major issues with the nitrous solenoid (I believe). Car sat in the 90 degree phoenix sun for about an hour, so by the time I went to strap it to the dyno and pressurize the nitrous bottle first. My inline pressure gauge was right at the ~1100 psi mark. As I opened the NANO, I didn't hear it pressurize (nor did I see a pressure change on the gauge), and I expected so because the pressure was already high due to sitting in the sun.
Figure it shouldn't be a big deal. Purged the system with both NANO and Nitrous bottles fully open. Beautiful white jet shoots out of my hood. Figured it was ok for a pull.
Get into third gear, arm the nitrous, and goes pig rich on the dyno. No nitrous hit. Repeat the same pull, and receive the same outcome. This nitrous solenoid has been at least inspected, if not replaced by nitrous outlet in the past couple months. Not used since it has been replaced.
Was the pressure too high for the solenoid? Furthermore, if that is considered above and beyond what pressures the entire system can perform at, what needs to happen so it can take all of this?
Sincerely,
Nitrous Newb
The nitrous bottle was too hot. You will need to make sure the nitrous bottle is below 85 degrees before opening or using the NANO system. We have cooling packs to help with this, let me know if you need a couple. They are not an all out solution if the car is in the sun long periods of time but will help. The easiest thing would be ice on the bottle in a zip lock bag with a towel over it.
My question still stands on the purge though. How was nitrous able to get through that? Does it not go through the exact same solenoid that wouldn't open when I tried to arm the system?
Our purge solenoids are rated to open at 1300 psi.
1100 psi is to high. I would ask brad to regulate there valve down to a 1000.
There is no reason to have the nitrous pressure any higher than 1040psi.
We battled the heat pluss nano alot last year. We are in Texas and carring around an ice chest with ice is just not practical. I would have brad regulate it down as much as they can.
I do have a new toy I plan to share with everyone real soon that may help with this. Im not real sure how it will affect with the nano and heat as of yet. We are trying to finish up testing and then we will share.
Dave
1100 psi is to high. I would ask brad to regulate there valve down to a 1000.
There is no reason to have the nitrous pressure any higher than 1040psi.
We battled the heat pluss nano alot last year. We are in Texas and carring around an ice chest with ice is just not practical. I would have brad regulate it down as much as they can.
I do have a new toy I plan to share with everyone real soon that may help with this. Im not real sure how it will affect with the nano and heat as of yet. We are trying to finish up testing and then we will share.
Dave
Exactly the reason why i sold the Nano kit. Cant use it if its hot out at ALL. Not a fan of having to ice the bottle down whenever i want to use it its a real pain in the ***. Sold the nano and just use a bottle heater now.
Worked great when it was cold out but sinc emy car sits for the winter it was pointless to have.
Worked great when it was cold out but sinc emy car sits for the winter it was pointless to have.
Our purge solenoids are rated to open at 1300 psi.
1100 psi is to high. I would ask brad to regulate there valve down to a 1000.
There is no reason to have the nitrous pressure any higher than 1040psi.
We battled the heat pluss nano alot last year. We are in Texas and carring around an ice chest with ice is just not practical. I would have brad regulate it down as much as they can.
I do have a new toy I plan to share with everyone real soon that may help with this. Im not real sure how it will affect with the nano and heat as of yet. We are trying to finish up testing and then we will share.
Dave
1100 psi is to high. I would ask brad to regulate there valve down to a 1000.
There is no reason to have the nitrous pressure any higher than 1040psi.
We battled the heat pluss nano alot last year. We are in Texas and carring around an ice chest with ice is just not practical. I would have brad regulate it down as much as they can.
I do have a new toy I plan to share with everyone real soon that may help with this. Im not real sure how it will affect with the nano and heat as of yet. We are trying to finish up testing and then we will share.
Dave
Gaunt stated that the bottle was in 90 deg sun and 1100psi before opening the NANO bottle. The NANO did not pressurize it to 1100psi. I am sure his NANO bottle regulator will be in range with your solenoid to function properly.
Exactly the reason why i sold the Nano kit. Cant use it if its hot out at ALL. Not a fan of having to ice the bottle down whenever i want to use it its a real pain in the ***. Sold the nano and just use a bottle heater now.
Worked great when it was cold out but sinc emy car sits for the winter it was pointless to have.
Worked great when it was cold out but sinc emy car sits for the winter it was pointless to have.
I ran heaters about 5 years ago on the street and the track. I had to cool the bottle down on hot days too because of pressure. My heater i had at the time, I bought because I thought it was the simplest one. It was a two wire hookup with a temp sensor. At the time on a full bottle i could get what felt like two strong pulls, a couple ok pulls and then a pull that felt very sluggish along with power dropping in 4th gear on a smaller shot. Inbetween every run consisted of me with the deck open, bottle heater on, flashlight on pressure gauge, waiting for it to heat up. No back to back runs with a heater either. I had a dead battery a couple of times, sometimes it took longer than usual to heat, lost out on some races etc.
At the track with larger shots pressure even becomes more difficult to stay on top of. I have had countless crew members thank me for getting a break from all of this. A fellow members crew from LTX shootout told me "we use to have to run the generator all day for the heater box, swap bottles between runs, and fill them. Now we can check plugs, and take a break."
At this event we kept chiller pads in the ice chest were the drinks were. Inbetween runs we put them on the bottles under a towel.