408 nitrous motor
06-25-2011, 02:31 PM
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408 nitrous motor wanting to build a 408 stroker motor for my ws6 and want to drive it on the street if i want to..what pistons are good for nitrous and what cc pistion will be good for pump gas on street....going to spray 250-300 shot will have 9" rearend also....what heads are good for nitous was thinking some 5.3 heads ported and worked....any input will help....just come for a ford lightning mod motor, to the lsx family
06-25-2011, 02:35 PM
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wanting to build a 408 stroker motor for my ws6 and want to drive it on the street if i want to..what pistons are good for nitrous and what cc pistion will be good for pump gas on street....going to spray 250-300 shot will have 9" rearend also....what heads are good for nitous was thinking some 5.3 heads ported and worked....any input will help....just come for a ford lightning mod motor, to the lsx family
Get one person or company to get you lined out with a nice nitrous combination and then get with me when your ready to put the jet to it.
07-01-2011, 04:12 PM
#4
Piston CC will depend on the heads, and where the deck is on the motor, and what gasket you want to run (or adjust to spec. with gasket thickness).
Stud the entire motor, upper and lower with ARP 2000 studs at a minimum.. if you want to shoot 300 I'd go oversize on the head studs too while you are at it. An aftermarket casting with the thicker flange will help ALOT with the sealing too and make things a little easier.
If you are going to hit it with that much, race fuel on the jug is going to be a must, standalone fuel system for that.
If you want to run it on pump gas on the street, I wouldn't go over 11 to 1 on the compression, the power gained vs the reilabilty isn't really worth it, that and the added tuning window will help with the ease of tuning as well.
Remember, cold plugs, no timing and don't go too rich with it and you should have very little issues with what you want to do.
There's a bunch of engine builders that can help with something like this as well over to the right.
Stud the entire motor, upper and lower with ARP 2000 studs at a minimum.. if you want to shoot 300 I'd go oversize on the head studs too while you are at it. An aftermarket casting with the thicker flange will help ALOT with the sealing too and make things a little easier.
If you are going to hit it with that much, race fuel on the jug is going to be a must, standalone fuel system for that.
If you want to run it on pump gas on the street, I wouldn't go over 11 to 1 on the compression, the power gained vs the reilabilty isn't really worth it, that and the added tuning window will help with the ease of tuning as well.
Remember, cold plugs, no timing and don't go too rich with it and you should have very little issues with what you want to do.
There's a bunch of engine builders that can help with something like this as well over to the right.
07-01-2011, 04:22 PM
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Piston CC will depend on the heads, and where the deck is on the motor, and what gasket you want to run (or adjust to spec. with gasket thickness).
Stud the entire motor, upper and lower with ARP 2000 studs at a minimum.. if you want to shoot 300 I'd go oversize on the head studs too while you are at it. An aftermarket casting with the thicker flange will help ALOT with the sealing too and make things a little easier.
If you are going to hit it with that much, race fuel on the jug is going to be a must, standalone fuel system for that.
If you want to run it on pump gas on the street, I wouldn't go over 11 to 1 on the compression, the power gained vs the reilabilty isn't really worth it, that and the added tuning window will help with the ease of tuning as well.
Remember, cold plugs, no timing and don't go too rich with it and you should have very little issues with what you want to do.
There's a bunch of engine builders that can help with something like this as well over to the right.
Stud the entire motor, upper and lower with ARP 2000 studs at a minimum.. if you want to shoot 300 I'd go oversize on the head studs too while you are at it. An aftermarket casting with the thicker flange will help ALOT with the sealing too and make things a little easier.
If you are going to hit it with that much, race fuel on the jug is going to be a must, standalone fuel system for that.
If you want to run it on pump gas on the street, I wouldn't go over 11 to 1 on the compression, the power gained vs the reilabilty isn't really worth it, that and the added tuning window will help with the ease of tuning as well.
Remember, cold plugs, no timing and don't go too rich with it and you should have very little issues with what you want to do.
There's a bunch of engine builders that can help with something like this as well over to the right.
Good response JL. This exactly why I made my recommendation. Too much for someone who is not an expert to spec out IMO. I know some get the idea that since some of us work at a shop that we just have drag racing figured out. Well that sure is heck is not true with me.
If I was building a 408 I would definitely need help from an experience builder.
07-01-2011, 07:00 PM
#6
I don't claim to be the expert by any means. I've had a couple things put together for me over the years, which I was right there all along as the process was done as far as parts selection... and have put a couple things together as well.
A 408 with nitrous is a pretty common piece which makes finding the needed info on it alot easier. If he was trying to put something together that was off the wall that I have never heard of or touched before... I'd refer him directly to an engine builder.
I do feel that the combo that he's looking for can be done in the garage, a shortblock and top end package could be ordered, cam spec'd, then it could be put together @ home, as long as the knowledge about checking p to v clearnaces, degreeing the camshaft and the like are present, it's doable. You can, build a motor like he wants pretty much out of a catalog for the most part. The piston is the only thing I would make sure is right.. make sure the top ringland is as thick as posible and they are made out of 2618 material, and again know the CC of the head so the correct compression is achieved, which again I wouldn't push at all if you want to drive it and run it on pump gas, and then put a decent amount of nitrous to (in the OP's case, that to me would be a 32 jet with a directport system, and that would also be the right way to go about it, again IMO)
The motor he's looking to build is very similar to what I have for sale. I'd have offered it but the compression is way too high for something that's going to be driven around, and I have a buyer that's just about ready to pull the trigger on it as well.
A 408 with nitrous is a pretty common piece which makes finding the needed info on it alot easier. If he was trying to put something together that was off the wall that I have never heard of or touched before... I'd refer him directly to an engine builder.
I do feel that the combo that he's looking for can be done in the garage, a shortblock and top end package could be ordered, cam spec'd, then it could be put together @ home, as long as the knowledge about checking p to v clearnaces, degreeing the camshaft and the like are present, it's doable. You can, build a motor like he wants pretty much out of a catalog for the most part. The piston is the only thing I would make sure is right.. make sure the top ringland is as thick as posible and they are made out of 2618 material, and again know the CC of the head so the correct compression is achieved, which again I wouldn't push at all if you want to drive it and run it on pump gas, and then put a decent amount of nitrous to (in the OP's case, that to me would be a 32 jet with a directport system, and that would also be the right way to go about it, again IMO)
The motor he's looking to build is very similar to what I have for sale. I'd have offered it but the compression is way too high for something that's going to be driven around, and I have a buyer that's just about ready to pull the trigger on it as well.
07-01-2011, 07:41 PM
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Shot for 11.2:1 ~ 11.4:1 static compression ratio
Choose the heads and ask your engine builder or any sponsors here about your end bottom parts to achieve that compression ratio .. Then match the cam :d
Choose the heads and ask your engine builder or any sponsors here about your end bottom parts to achieve that compression ratio .. Then match the cam :d
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07-08-2011, 02:24 AM
#8
I'm not a nitrous guru but all these above are great responses. I had many conversations with my engine builder before I had my 408 shortblock done. My bottomend is ready to go for a 250-300 shot along with my driveline (minus clutch). Discuss your topend with your builder like mentioned above. There will be alot of different variables for every application.
Me for example, I want my TA to be a great street-sweeper/sleeper along with running some really good #'s at the track. I didn't go for the biggest cam to sacrifice down-low torque but threw a Magic Stick 3 (114LSA) in my 408. Still made over 500rwhp and cracked 480rwtq with PRC 2.5 5.3s through a t56 and S60 with 4.10s. These aren't the optimal heads I will be spraying with and has my my compression through the roof. Mine with high-flo cats and a muffler DOES NOT sound like an intimidating machine, but a smaller cam'd LS1. The 5.3 heads flow good but not enough for the 408 which is the only thing holding me back bottlenecked from making more power NA with that cam. Now when I add TEA TFS 235 heads, there will be a little more power to be had and lowering my compression from 11.7 to probably around 11.2-ish.
It almost sounds like you are interested in about my same setup, but I would still consult your builder truthfully. Not all builds are the same and just because I have an MS3 doesnt mean its the optimal cam either. Custom is always the best bro.
Mike
Me for example, I want my TA to be a great street-sweeper/sleeper along with running some really good #'s at the track. I didn't go for the biggest cam to sacrifice down-low torque but threw a Magic Stick 3 (114LSA) in my 408. Still made over 500rwhp and cracked 480rwtq with PRC 2.5 5.3s through a t56 and S60 with 4.10s. These aren't the optimal heads I will be spraying with and has my my compression through the roof. Mine with high-flo cats and a muffler DOES NOT sound like an intimidating machine, but a smaller cam'd LS1. The 5.3 heads flow good but not enough for the 408 which is the only thing holding me back bottlenecked from making more power NA with that cam. Now when I add TEA TFS 235 heads, there will be a little more power to be had and lowering my compression from 11.7 to probably around 11.2-ish.
It almost sounds like you are interested in about my same setup, but I would still consult your builder truthfully. Not all builds are the same and just because I have an MS3 doesnt mean its the optimal cam either. Custom is always the best bro.
Mike
06-16-2012, 05:51 PM
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i just want to run low 6 in 1/8th mile on gas...and 7.0 n/a....what you guys thinks....408 stroker,custom grind cam,tea stg 3 5,3 heads,9" rearend 4.11 gears,, 3" exhaust,super victor jr fully ported ,92mm tb and 92mm aarons elbow...1 7/8 lond tubes... going with spray bars or plate kit..
06-20-2012, 11:12 AM
#14
Me personally I think the 408 will make it a lot easier to hit his goal.
I would also ditch the 4.11's and go with a 3.73's, maybe 3.90's.
Your going to walk a fine line with the 2.48 first gear of the TH400, a 3.90 rear gear and the power it takes to get it off the line quickly, but without spinning due to the low gear ratio TH400 has in 1st. Then your car being full weight it will need some mechanical help getting it to move, but I would rather use a 3.73 and use more nitrous to get it off the line than gearing. 3.73 won't be very good on motor though, but with a 408 it should still be able to crack 6.90's.
You will also want to shift the torque peak and power curve of this motor a little higher due to the 2.48 first gear so it doesn't have ridiculous amounts of torque down low and make it impossible to hook.
06-20-2012, 09:28 PM
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It's a full weight car the stroker will make it easier to hit his goal without having to build a high strung high winding 347.
Me personally I think the 408 will make it a lot easier to hit his goal.
I would also ditch the 4.11's and go with a 3.73's, maybe 3.90's.
Your going to walk a fine line with the 2.48 first gear of the TH400, a 3.90 rear gear and the power it takes to get it off the line quickly, but without spinning due to the low gear ratio TH400 has in 1st. Then your car being full weight it will need some mechanical help getting it to move, but I would rather use a 3.73 and use more nitrous to get it off the line than gearing. 3.73 won't be very good on motor though, but with a 408 it should still be able to crack 6.90's.
You will also want to shift the torque peak and power curve of this motor a little higher due to the 2.48 first gear so it doesn't have ridiculous amounts of torque down low and make it impossible to hook.
Me personally I think the 408 will make it a lot easier to hit his goal.
I would also ditch the 4.11's and go with a 3.73's, maybe 3.90's.
Your going to walk a fine line with the 2.48 first gear of the TH400, a 3.90 rear gear and the power it takes to get it off the line quickly, but without spinning due to the low gear ratio TH400 has in 1st. Then your car being full weight it will need some mechanical help getting it to move, but I would rather use a 3.73 and use more nitrous to get it off the line than gearing. 3.73 won't be very good on motor though, but with a 408 it should still be able to crack 6.90's.
You will also want to shift the torque peak and power curve of this motor a little higher due to the 2.48 first gear so it doesn't have ridiculous amounts of torque down low and make it impossible to hook.
6.90 on motor or on 200 shot i think im going to just go with the th400 with pro brake, and just get a 4l80e down the road
