zooguy

iTrader: (1)

kinda dumb question and i dont think that they do but i just want to make sure before i start installing stuff ... i got a manifold for my bottle that has 2 ports one i am using a bottle pressure gauge and the other i am using a pressure switch for my bottle heater.

i dont need thread tape to put these in the manifold do i?

how about the manifold to the bottle?

Pewter53

iTrader: (36)

i use the thread paste not a fan of the tape can get in your lines and stop the solenoids up. you dont have to use it but sometimes the manifolds can leak.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

You should never use teflon tape/paste on AN fittings - the seal is made on the 37* face, not the threads.

Pipe threads are a different story - those use tapered threads to make the seal (which isn't a very good seal BTW), so those damn near require teflon tape/paste to make sure the seal is reliable.

zooguy

iTrader: (1)

so the manifold to the bottle i dont need it cause the AN fitting (tapered tip)

the pressure gauge and switch those DO need it.



am i understanding this right?

zipster

iTrader: (5)

yes that is correct.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

Never Use Teflon Tape on a Nitrous fitting.
its Best to use Red Locktite for Manifold Fittings(like a Direct port Nozzle)
and Blue Locktite for everything else NPT
worst case you can use teflon Paste or "pipe dope"
But NEVER TAPE

on the AN side of fittings, no sealer is necessary as it is a 37* fitting that seals itself

CLRD4TO

iTrader: (4)

Red loctite? Use that if you never want to take fasteners apart again. You dont need a thread locker for nitrous fittings, just a thread sealer on pipe thread fittings. Tape is fine if your not messy. The first two threads on NPT fittings should be free from sealer anyways. As stated above, dont use anything on AN fittings. Just make sure there are no nicks or scratches on the flare surface.

Just FYI, the top half of this fitting is AN and the bottom is NPT

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

The Sponsors on here that do nitrous installs for a living... use red and blue locktite just as I described above...Red on Nozzles, Blue on everything else

Tape is never fine... Tape frizzes out, and pieces come off, get stuck in the solenoid.. and hang the solenoid open, which makes you have to buy a new engine...its one of the most common causes of failures...dirt/debris/tape stuck in the solenoid.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

and.......
Locktite is both a Locker and a sealer...
Red for the intake nozzles (mostly in Metal intakes) because of higher heat and vibration resistance
Blue everywhere else (and in plastic intakes)because it can be removed much easier and without heat.

ShiznityZ28

iTrader: (11)

On the flared end nothing. on an oring end nothing. on the pipe thread end of the "an to pipe" fitting use either some pipe paste or blue loctite. stay away from tape for the most part.

Firehawk441

iTrader: (41)

Let us know how you make out when you try and remove the NPT fitting from that aluminum intake with Red Loctite.

Firehawk441

iTrader: (41)

When it comes to aluminum NPT fittings screwed into aluminum you couldn't be more correct. IF it comes appart, reassembly will have a whole new meaning.

sweet99ss

iTrader: (41)

Damn I just put teflon tape when installing my kit last night... I really don't want to use red locktite on mine. Will blue work ok everywhere? I have never had good luck removing things when I use red locktite.

wreckwriter

iTrader: (1)

Blue will be fine. No tape as said above.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

Intake had 8 90* wet nozzles in it, with red locktite,
Sent it off to be redone with bungs and blow thru nozzles and new plumbing
All 8 had red loctite, all 8 came out and i was told they are in great condition and can be reused on another setup.

You just have to use a little heat when removing red locktite, and you have to have to have not overtorqued them on install..
Over torquing on threads that are not cut correctly is the more common problem
People don't realize that there is a taper to an NPT fitting and they don't cut the threads deep enough or cleanly enough, then they crank down on the nozzle to get it to face the correct direction.. when they really needed to cut the threads another turn and a half.

Edit* fixed a phone typo....

sweet99ss

iTrader: (41)

Cool thanks

Firehawk441

iTrader: (41)

You are the one that doesn't realize that there is no taper in AN threads. They are nothing more then STD threads. NPT threads are tapered.

Good luck with your Red Loctite. Some people always need to learn the hard way. Hope it's not to costly for you when the heat wrench fails.

CLRD4TO

iTrader: (4)

Looks like someone is confused on AN/NPT. AN fittings, threads, flares, and b-nuts should be completely clean and dry. Tape can easily get into a line if was put on an AN fitting, especially if it has been removed. I too work with AN fittings every day, plenty of heat, oil, and vibration on airplanes.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

Sorry, I had a phone typo... meant to put NPT there... Phone autocorrected to the wrong word...

Most nozzles are a 1/16 NPT thread,
Biggest problem is people install it incorrectly...
It's not the locktite that messes things up.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

ok, finally home and back at the computer..

Looks like a post was already deleted....so for anybody who is already subscribed...

my email says

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...=23&section=88
Most nozzles 1/16
the nozzle that says 1/8... I was told by Chris at Nitrous outlet that they do not make that one any more

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../nozzles.shtml
again.. Most nozzles 1/16... first one is their only 1/8 nozzle

http://www.summitracing.com/search/B...s/?Ns=Rank|Asc

scroll down... I see a whole lot of 1/16...



and for the reference of anybody who wants to tap their own intake for nozzles
the proper drill bit for the pilot hole for the 1/16 NPT Tap, is a #C Drill bit...(0.242 inches)
or you can get premade bungs welded in(for metal intakes) and not have to use a tap at all