Ok guys I have everything else, but my bottle heater hooked up. I already have a switch ready to activate the bottle heater, but I need a 12v source for my relay to bottle heater. Where is a good place to get this from? I don't want to run it off my battery. Any suggestions?

 

Ok, I think I just thought of a way. I have the power wire my nitrous solenoid relay coming directly off the battery... So could I cut my power wire for that relay and Y in my power wire for my bottle heater?

 

.

I'm going to try a snowmobile battery this year.
If that doesn't work, I have a mini deep cycle that I know will work, but it's much heavier.
Good idea not using the car battery.

.

 

I would run a 10 gauge wire from the battery to the inside of the car into the dash somewhere and have seperate box that I could wire several things into for 12 volt, my car will have several things will will need 12 bolt power and I can just run them all threw one location

 

Making your own fuse/power plate is the way to go, but I'd use heavier than a 10g for the primary 12v source. Maybe 8g, but that'll all depend on how many accessories you'll run off this source. If going this route, be sure the plate has a GOOD ground as close to the plate as possible.

 

Can anybody answer if i can Y it off my power wire for my nitrous solenoid relay

 

.

Sounds like I misunderstood, and thought you wanted an external power source like I use when sitting in staging.

Before you just tie into another circuit, you need to know what it can handle, and exactly what the heater load will be.
To be honest, everyone I know runs a separate circuit, because the heater pulls too much to just stick on another circuit.

Good luck.

.

 

What if I turned the bottle heater off just before i spray? Could I tie into it than? That way I would never have 2 loads on it? It would be coming off a 12g wire all the way to the back.

 

.

If you have high amp solenoids and you know that circuit can handle it, that would probably be perfect.
That way you know it won't pop another circuit, and my 2 cents, use a on-off-on switch,
so that way it is impossible to engage the noids & heater at the same time.

.

 

Yea I have the nitrous outlet switch so I can turn them all on and off so I think it will work out.

 

.

The on-off-on switch is different, it's not the same as on-off.
You use it exactly for this type circuit, so it's impossible to run 2 circuits at the same time.
Just make sure you get a quality switch, that can handle the draw.

Are you near Chicago, I could build the circuit for you, it's easy for me.

.

 

You're making it entirely to complicated. 12v is 12v. Its either switched or constant. Yes you splice into the power wire to your solenoid relay and not effect anything.

 

I don't think I'm making anything to complicated.... I read alot of threads of people getting wires really hot with these bottle heaters. I'd rather be safe than sorry! Thanks for the info though

 

You want to be safe? Then here ya go:

12ga wire 12ga
Battery------------- Relay 30-----------Heater



Or like said above, maybe you need to buy a separate fuse block.
http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p349.html

Just take a proper gauge wire from the battery and run it to this fuse block. That way you can now fuse everything going out without tapping into any wires. These blocks are perfect for adding extra things without making it a pain.

You may need an 8ga which will handle quite a bit of juice to power the fuse block. Then just add in a simple fuse and run it out to whatever you want.

Your relay wiring should be like this:
85 ground
86 This will be 12V from your toggle switch
87A this will go out to your heater
30 this will come from the fuse block and will carry the load. So make sure you have a 10 or 15amp fuse protecting it. You want the fuse to pop before the wire burns.

 

A fuse block would be pretty handy. might think about that one of these days. Right now I already have everything wired up except the bottle heater so I don't wanna get into that yet.

 

.

The guy is 100% doing the right thing, for exactly the reason mentioned.
He was not sure, and I would rather not hear about his car burning to the ground
when many of us know a lot more then him and were here to help!!!
I don't care what anyone says, you don't mess with electricity if you don't know what you're doing.
He did the right thing, and hopefully others have learned something also.
You don't just splice into a circuit anywhere you feel like, 12v is 12v, but 1 amp is definitely not 25 amps!!!!

.

 

Well... not exactly. 12 volts is the "electrical pressure", which remains constant. Different devices require more or less "wattage". Wattage is volts times amps, and if voltage is constant, the only way to get more wattage is to increase the amperage. Amperage is the actual flow of (or count of) electrons, so it's like the water in a hose.
As the amperage increases, the wire provides more and more resistance (like trying to force more and more water through a given hose), but in the case of electricity, it heats up the wire, or the fuse built in to the circuit. HEATERS are relatively inefficient, and require a lot of current (amperage) to work. So the first thing to is determine the current draw (should be on the device somewhere) and be sure that the circuit you are creating and attaching to can accept the additional draw without overheating.

 

I like this idea a lot! I believe I will use this when I install nitrous on my car.

 

LOL this got way out of control. Look man, I wouldnt tap into a wire that is already being used. Thats just me and the reason for this is you have no idea what each component is pulling from that wire. Save some worry and just run a wire from the battery, use a relay and wire it up that way. Or use the box deal like others have said. This is my opinion, and also the way that I have wired my bottle heater up. Directly off the batter to a relay.

 

Yea I ran the wire last night right off the battery to a 10ga wire. They are both running off the battery now.