they wont hurt a thing if your car is tuned properly...

I run a Br8ef on the street all the time with no issues
you may get a little less life out of your plugs, needing to change them more often....but that is about it..

of course.. I do change my plugs and oil every 3000 with miles no matter what...


and as mr. Dragster stated...
pull the appropriate timing...maybe a little extra, and work your way back...
Start out on Motor, and find what your car likes for best timing...
then when you spray Nitrous, start with -2* per 50 HP shot
I actually like to start with an extra -2* added into the pile

on my motor...27* at WOT on Motor only
a 150 shot, I would start at -8 and work back to -6 after I read all the plugs multiple times
and if I was trying to win races for serious money(like enough to consider racing for a living), I would consider pushing the timing and going to -5 or -4...


and look at ALL THE PLUGS!!!
not juts 7 and 8 Like Army has suggested...(that is so incorrect on so many levels when it comes to Nitrous)
Just because his setup is the leanest there, doesnt mean yours will be...
checking only 2 plugs is like telling the astronauts you only checked 1/4 of the bolts for the space shuttle launch...and we all know what happened when somebody missed a few bolts

a weaker injector somewhere, a funky port job, will all make things change
if you have a well setup engine and fuel/air intake system...the rear two may not be your hottest...you may find you need to run a colder plug on a few holes, but not on all of them..

 

lol... Man he's done upgraded now so we will never know . He has 799s with a FAST 102, dedicated, dual shot plate from NX. He will probably be the first into the 8s....

 

Well man the next time I go I'm gonna give it a try

 

its usually the other way around... you start Low on timing and work your way up...
why start with too much timing and damage your engine...that would be bass ackwards

but either way....it has to be done per day if you are gonna push it to the ragged edge

if you want to run on the safer side, then its not as crucial...especially with Just a 150 shot...Lots of guys buy a generic kit, pull 6*-8* of timing, put in a Br6EF or a br7EF and just go to town on it and dont have problems..

sometimes you have to pull more timing off the line so that you dont spin and then add it back in as you get moving down the track...

on a 150 it should be easier to hook up at the line...I know lots of guys spraying a 150 straight out of the hole with no traction issues...
and I know guys spraying 250+ that have to pull a few extra degrees until they get out past the 330' or they have to use a progressive controller and add it in as they go.

 

soundengineer - This comment was directed to hardcore hence the reason i put his name before I typed. In his case he is an experienced tuner and has his tune extremely close.

Now if i was starting out on a fresh tune-up I would start low then work up. However once she stopped climbing in mph i would then pull a degree to see if she ran the same. If so then I would leave the degree out and lock it down.

 

I like that answer better.



oh... and a reminder...
While Tuning and trying to dial it in....

it is extremely important to keep accurate records
I prefer to do a good old fashioned Paper Log book
and also a few sheets of graph paper so I can keep a chart
Air temp, Humidity, Barometric Pressure, Timing, Air Fuel, suspension settings....the more info the better

 

lol... I still have my log book from 95 when i started! thanks for the tips tho!

 

LOL.. the log book quote wasnt directed at you by the way...it was directed to the entire peanut gallery...LOL


I dont have anything that old.. lost a lot of stuff due to a sudden move out a few years age because of an Ex....

but I have a buddy with some log books from racing back in 91....LOL

 

Wow..... #8 plug for a 150 hit. Funky port job on a stock LS1 Cyl.'s hotter than 7 & 8 on a stock LS1 Austronauts? Didnt know spraying a 150 shot was rocket science. Colder plugs in a few holes instead of tuning to the hottest hole for a 150 shot Repeating what has already been said .

I think there is room for a little more complication here somewhere. Im sure you can find it.

 

now I didnt say that I was running a 150 shot did I....cause I am not...I'm doing a Dry Shot 250 2 stage on the street..
and a #10 will go in and a Dry 2 stage 400-500 shot for the track this season

I Just pointed out the fact that I run around and daily drive on a nitrous plug colder than stock heat range on the street with no issues

and yes... some people like to take their heads/intake to a local porter or a lesser known guy because he costs less...and guess what...results may vary

spraying a 150 is not rocket science...
but plenty of people have blown up stock LS1's on a 150 from not doing things correctly...

Give people the best education you can, they will learn more than if you tell them to do something half ***
and checking only 2 plugs... is half *** and Lazy

I suppose you only look at one tire to see if all 4 need replacing?
or perhaps you only double check one set of brakes to determine if all 4 need it?
possibly you only look at one side of the Fuel trims or one side of the exhaust when doing fuel tuning?

Lots of people on the bigger end of the market tune for each hole...its not just about fixing the one "hot" one you checked...

theres a right way and a wrong way to check plugs...
checking only 2 of them...is "not the right way"


its your choice if you dont want to check all 8 plugs...its your motor, and your money...your choice...I personally dont give a rats *** if you want to just wing it and not look at a thing...

But me... I check all 8 every time
its not that hard to pull the plugs and take a look at them...and they are cheap to replace





also, to add to the topic while we are all at it...
It is also good practice to replace the plugs every time you run through a bottle...
Fill it up, put new plugs in it...

 

Most of us guys spraying a 100-150 shot are on a budget lol. $30 extra per bottle isn't cheap and that's really why most of us are running nitrous. It's "cheap" hp.

 

well.. you will still need to swap plugs every time you run through a bottle....
count it into your Nitrous Fill up cost..

 

I've never heard of anyone putting in new plugs everytime they go through a bottle. I see people spray and not change plugs for 2 years.... Seems like it works just fine to me..

 

I agree with you. He is just spitting out knowledge some old timer told him.

Did u read the rest of his posts? Lol

 

Funny stuff !

 

Damn! I guess I need to change my plugs then.

I ran 40 bottles thru my Olds Cutlass on the same plugs.

I agree on changing them, but not that often on a 150 shot.

On the thread I made with the street race. We change the plugs on that car depending on how we hit it on the street. If we give it everything we change them, if we give it maybe one stage or part of one stage we just check them.

 

If the tune is good I see no need to change them much. (street car stuff)

 

thats ok, believe what you want, youngster....

 

.

If you are not making a change or doing some fine tuning, there is no reason to change plugs
until the edges start getting rounded off!!
We don't change plugs for no reason, that's stupid and a waste of money.
Now, like I said to the guy I wasted all my time trying to answer his ??
If you don't use fresh plugs for EVERY hit, there is no way to read what the fuel is doing,
how the timing is coming, or if the heat range is correct.
If you don't care, or it's where you want it, then I absolutely don't recommend changing plugs.
Fresh plugs are a tuning tool, they are definitely not part of the normal N2O fill up requirements!!
Now I do say pull them often, being lazy can definitely bite you in the butt,
but just put them back and stick another bottle in!!

.

 

I will believe real nitrous tuners such as ATVracr and ShiznittyZ28. Not a groupie who pays spark plug companies light bills.