How much timing should i pull for a 150 shot? I talked to dynotune and they told me 4degrees, but when i got the car it was set on 5 degrees. The car has a wet kit intsalled and uses the lingenfelter timing box.

 

For safety timing they advice 2 degrees for every 50HP and it's depends with the tunning , for that shot 4-6 degress

 

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I also always start at 2 per 50.
Yes you will probably end up closer to 3 per 100?? but you can never be too safe,
and you can't go back when there's a hole in the piston??


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Ill leave it on 5 degrees until I can get it dynotuned.

 

so is there a max? or should I pull 10* on my 250 shot?
So than Total timing would be 17*

truly asking?

 

What youre going to want to do is to pull more timing than needed for the shot size youre running. I would pull 2 degrees for every 50. Then run the car down the track or street (prefer it be a 1/4 pass) and pull either number 7 or 8 plug or both. 7&8 are the hottest plugs so they will give you the best reading. Look at it and see where the timing mark is and what the fueling looks like. Youre probably going to be way rich and way light on timing. Clean the fuel up with the fuel jets. Move one step, run it, check it and repeat until it looks good. Once the fuel is cleaned up you then can start adding timing back in it a degree at a time, using the same step process as for the fuel, until the heat starts to show up on the tip of the strap and then leave it. If the heat is running into the bend of the strap then you have too much timing and if you dont see heat on the strap then you dont have enough timing and need to add a degree. If youre doing this at the track then you can add a degree every pass until your MPH falls off. When it falls off, cut a degree out of it and leave it and pull a plug to make sure everything is "jiving". My motor is happy at 26 degrees of timing on a 150 hit for a reference. Not saying that your motor will be because every motor is different. Just giving you some sort of idea so you wont be worried when you dont see heat on the strap and are skeptic to add that extra degree to get it there lol.

There needs to be next to no idle time on the plugs during this process. Start it up, run it and as soon as you let off the throttle, shut it off and coast to a spot where you can pull a plug. Dont run the same plug twice. Dont rush these steps. This is critical to get a good solid reading and to save your motor.

What plugs are you running? I would advise you to move to a NGK #7 plug. The NGK have a cadian coating on the straps that burns off so they are much easier to read.

Its a time consuming process but when youre busting peoples asses on a little 150 hit all while your motor is holding together and happy, its worth it.

 

Should have just asked me lol

 

Im running NGK TR6 plugs and hopefully i can do some checking once the track opens. I plan on getting a dynotune before the track opens, how much will that help?

 

I switched from the TR6 to the BRE7F and was able to add more timing, my engine runs cooler n/a with BRE7F even with more timing. I pull 7 degrees with my 150 shot. 35* total timing n/a, 28* total on spary with msd box. Seems to be the sweet spot with my set up. Knock sensor happy

 

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I know some guys worry about total timing, but I never do.
I start with the timing where it works best N/A.
On my last combo I was spraying 300, so I pulled 12* and it ended up liking 9*.
It ran fine at 12*, just a little slower, and by using new plugs every hit,
we learned it was quicker at 9* without pushing our luck.
Now I probably could have ran quicker at 6, 7, 8*, but I trust the plugs and don't risk it.

Army gives good advice, but what would I know, some expert claims my experience & advice is BS!!
2012 is only my 30th year driving a drag car.

Good luck.

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Damn LT1's with all your timing. Lol

So if I start at my N/A timing which is 28 and spray a 150 hit then see what comes of it? Sounds like holes in pistons to me.

Well Mr. 30 years. I invite you to shoot holes in my advice. Also are you running a LS based motor in your lumina?

 

Thanks for all the advice! Once the track opens ill start checking the plugs and see what timing works best.

 

One more bit of advice. I would advise you run a #7 plug. Its a better nitrous plug than a TR-6. It will also provide you with a little more "cushon" while spraying.

 

I totally agree with you on the Plug choice.... TR-6 is NOT a nitrous plug.
the Non Projection Tip BR7EF is much better



Guess which one is which

Next time out however I will try a few degrees less timing

 

Well in actuality the plug on the left is not a br7ef. That plug is a gasket seat style plug and all LS heads are a tapered seat head.

I use that plug on SBC 23* engines and its a heat range 9

 

How will the BR7EF plugs effect the car when im not spraying? Also what should the plugs be gapped at?

 

Just a pick I found showing the difference

 

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Army, you missed my point, I said you gave the proper advice.
I never said start at N/A timing, I said I don't use total timing when giving advice.
You can't just say start at 20, 25, 30. I always say how much to pull until you find the sweet spot.
Every combo is different, both N/A & spraying for the timing sweet spot.

I saw a guy post something I can't see because he's on my block moron list.
That's why I said I agree with you, but what would I know.
I can just imagine the expert advice he offered??

Read my post again, never ripped you.

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Hardcore- The best tuners will tell you to keep pulling timing until she slows. When she slows put back in a degree then lock it down for that power/weather/tune-up for that day.

My last outing i went 9.78 on 15.5, pulled 1 degree went 9.76 (14.5), then went 9.74 with a little better traction. Next outing I'm starting at 13.5 with the same tune-up as last time. C-16 and br9efs at .032.

 

^^^Car looks like its running good! You are breathing down Cams neck now.