$900 bucks a good deal for...
Im new to the whole nitrous bit but Im gonna get my first kit and would like to be as safe as possible but dont wanna pay to much or buy something unecessary. So does this look like a good deal???
NX Dry Kit adjustable from 50-150 plus
NX Bottle Heater
NX FPSS
Nitrous filter,pressure release valve, and blowdown tube
Nitrous pressure gauge
NX purge kit
Mallory window switch
8-NGK TR6
Thanks for your oppinions!
NX Dry Kit adjustable from 50-150 plus
NX Bottle Heater
NX FPSS
Nitrous filter,pressure release valve, and blowdown tube
Nitrous pressure gauge
NX purge kit
Mallory window switch
8-NGK TR6
Thanks for your oppinions!
looks like about the price you'd pay for a new system. Is that what it is? I seem to be getting the impression its a used one <img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0">
If its new its right on target. How about a remote bottle opener too????
If its new its right on target. How about a remote bottle opener too????
This is a new kit from IRS. I would like to have a remote bottle opener but its just a luxury right...I will get one sonner or later. Thanks Joey
Thanks LiL SS Anyone have any wisdom for me as far as install and then actually spraying for the first time. Explain it to me like im stupid. <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0"> Also the NX dry kit can be done stealth right. Im mainly gonna be street racing and dont want every one to see it. Any one have some pics of their dry install. Thanks
Joey,
It can be done stealth.. I think the 2 problems you will run into doing it stealth are:
1) The lines going to the air box for the N20
(Drill a hole in the bottom neck of the air lid just before the MAF) Then they are real hard to see..
2) What are you going to use to activate the solinoids? Most people use the WOT switch that goes on the TB but anyone with expeience with N20 will see it.
(Find a way to mount it under the gas pedal, or go with a push button somewhere)
As far as the install, mine is a 5177 NOS kit. I'm guessing they are a lot the same.. I would start with the bottle, putting it in the spare tire well. It helps if you put the bottle in the brackets and lay it in to where you can put the plastics back one with out noticing the bottle. Once that is done, mark and drill your holes for the brackets.
Run your line from the back to the front.
Find a place to mount your Noid/Noids and get that done. Finish all your pluming of the N20. (Bottle all the way to the lid, don't forget the teflon)
Now all you have left is the wiring.
I didn't do a window switch so I can't help you there.. Hope that helps on the install..
Now for testing it.
If you run the line to the bottom of the lid like I mentioned, you will be better off having that line loose and not in the box at first. Start the car (Your doing a FPSS, car must be running to have pressure), and have the line away from any intake area, have someone arm and ingage the N20. The line will then flow N20 if everything is up and running. Put it in the lid and grab your A-tap and go for a ride..
Make sure your above 3k rpms and in a nice straight line when you hit the button for the first time.. Have fun!!
It can be done stealth.. I think the 2 problems you will run into doing it stealth are:
1) The lines going to the air box for the N20
(Drill a hole in the bottom neck of the air lid just before the MAF) Then they are real hard to see..
2) What are you going to use to activate the solinoids? Most people use the WOT switch that goes on the TB but anyone with expeience with N20 will see it.
(Find a way to mount it under the gas pedal, or go with a push button somewhere)
As far as the install, mine is a 5177 NOS kit. I'm guessing they are a lot the same.. I would start with the bottle, putting it in the spare tire well. It helps if you put the bottle in the brackets and lay it in to where you can put the plastics back one with out noticing the bottle. Once that is done, mark and drill your holes for the brackets.
Run your line from the back to the front.
Find a place to mount your Noid/Noids and get that done. Finish all your pluming of the N20. (Bottle all the way to the lid, don't forget the teflon)
Now all you have left is the wiring.
I didn't do a window switch so I can't help you there.. Hope that helps on the install..
Now for testing it.
If you run the line to the bottom of the lid like I mentioned, you will be better off having that line loose and not in the box at first. Start the car (Your doing a FPSS, car must be running to have pressure), and have the line away from any intake area, have someone arm and ingage the N20. The line will then flow N20 if everything is up and running. Put it in the lid and grab your A-tap and go for a ride..
Make sure your above 3k rpms and in a nice straight line when you hit the button for the first time.. Have fun!!
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Almost forgot..The WOT and window switch are two different ways to engage you nitrous right? If i had the window switch I wouldnt need the WOT swicth correct? Thanks
The window and WOT switch are two different SAFETY measures. They are designed to keep the nitrous off until you are at WOT and inside your set "window" rpm range. You could use nitrous without either, they are just safety measures.
NX doesnt make a dry kit that i know of but ok.....
window switch...allows power to the solenoids (i.e. allows the nitrous to spray) between a specified window like 3000rpm to 6000rpm. you'd want to set the second rpm setting to just below your shift point to keep it from spraying while you shift.
a WOT switch only allows you to spray when the linkage is at WOT. you can also mount it by the gas pedal. either way, you need one. same with the window.
window switch...allows power to the solenoids (i.e. allows the nitrous to spray) between a specified window like 3000rpm to 6000rpm. you'd want to set the second rpm setting to just below your shift point to keep it from spraying while you shift.
a WOT switch only allows you to spray when the linkage is at WOT. you can also mount it by the gas pedal. either way, you need one. same with the window.

