It would of been interesting to see, I can tell you this though it would probably be at least a second slower gauging how tight the stall is now. I would bet it doesn't trap but mid to high 90's if that on motor.

Once I get it spraying off the line you guys and I will start seeing some good times out of the car.

It has the chassis set-up to put the power down, I just need to get a couple more bugs worked out.

I honestly just wanted some return for all the work I have done in the past week or two and I wanted to get out there with the other racers in the class and mix it up and shoot the **** with them so I could have a good time which I did have a good time last night.

JonCR96z is my tuner. He makes the changes I tell him to on my tune. He has always been a big help to me and I couldn't get to where I am without him

He's a good friend to have and his tuning knowledge is pretty vast, much more than mine. I have learned just about everything I have learned about tuning from him and one or two others.

We need to pull at least 2 more degrees Jon if I continue to use pump gas.

I still would like to pull at least a degree or degree and a half even if I mix in some race gas.

I'm working on the plug pics guys. Bear with me

 

I've got an D/C -> A/C Inverter (150w) from Radio Shack. Just plug it in to the cigarette lighter and you have A/C power. I mostly use it for the laptop and logging.

 

I also had to drop 10+ fuel jet sizes when trying that size shot, even with a Nano.
I ditch those $60+ dollar pieces of **** a long time ago, went with $30 dollar Autozone lifetime warranty wires and called it the day.

 

Did you have problems with the boots pulling off?

I went to pull the damn thing off, and half of the wire stayed stuck to the plug! I realized right then what had happened.

 

^ That's the reason they're off my car.

I kept the non broken wires for spares though.

 

Same here ^^^ I found out the hard way about not having a few spare wires when racing so ever since I pulled one apart I keep two or three spares at all times.

 

Didn't read the replies so all has prob been covered, but here is my two cents. way to rich. i didn't see where you stated what size shot your running so lets assume its a 150hp shot. I would run a high 12.x to low 13.x:1 ratio. these guys that think they need a 10.5:1 ratio are the same guys that are blowing their motors. What we what is a safe run and no melt down so we must address a couple other issues. Fuel quality, IE: octane, run the best fuel you can get your hands on. yes costly, but so is a replacement motor. I used to buy 55 gallon drums of Trick nitrous gasoline for racing. Next is timing. we want to run as much timing as we need to make max power, or the best ET. Tuning on the dyno is great, for a start performance tune, then follow up at the track with some launches and quarter track runs, shut her down then read your plugs. keep doing this till you know you can make a full hard run. I would have pulled a few degrees from what the dyno tune ended up with for safety matters and now you can start adding a degree or two back and make another run. As long as your ET is getting better your going in the right direction. However, this is where reading your plugs comes into play big time. They are going tell you exactly what you need for your nitrous tune. I haven't been on here for 2 and half years, but right before i left we were doing a couple excellent plug reading threads and would rec looking for them cause that's the secret of a true nitrous head, lol. I set and held numerous Z06 records, not to mention dyno shoot out 4 years in a row, running multi stage dry nitrous in various manners and motors, so most of my suggestions are tried and true methods that i learned threw hard knocks and from experience and a whole lot of talking to the guys on this forum where i learned a lot. Never be afraid of asking a question no matter how dumb it may seem, i never cared what people thought and would ask what ever it was I needed to understand what we were trying to do at the time. in the end i had 4 stages, all dry, with stage 1 being a direct port dry and i could go on and on and would love to but will shut up for now, lol. Good luck bro. Oh yea, i did notice the 2nd poster and you can def count on his info as being right on and full of insight. Robert

I see in my old sig the hp/tq, lol, they went well past 700hp/800tq...

 

So far, my best tune has been on the 78/44, but that was at 11.4 AFR.
"nitrous head", LMAO. Thanks for checking in. Post up some plugs if you still have them. I know you must have a bucket of them somewhere.

By my next visit to the track, I expect to be on target w/fuel and
experimenting w/spark.

What are your thought on progressive controllers? I sometimes wonder if the solenoids don't like being rapidly turned on and off.

 

Ok guys I could NOT get these ******* cut open for the life of me.

I am going to have to wait and find a dremel to cut them open with. I can at least offer some strap shots up.

Here is what I think, no heat on strap, barely a timing mark and that I probably have some room to lean it out judging by the heat.

The porcelain is white, and when I shine my l.e.d. flashlight down in the plug I can see a tan line about the width of a pencil tip at the WOT fuel ring.

I am going to try and work on getting shots of the fuel ring when get this set cut open.

 

those look to be projected as well, find some damn NGK 1049's please

 

Wow, NGK is much easier to read. One 1/8 mile pass might not be enough on a small shot to really show up on those.

Just get em cut open. What was your wideband reading?

 

Go to your local auto parts store and just order 100 plugs. Sucks I know to spend that kind of money on plugs, and they WILL look at you like you're a nut when you do it, but believe me it's worth it. Sit at home, with the gapping tool, and a good movie and gap every single one... then you won't have to deal with that nightmare either for a while, just pull them and put them in and go....

No part of any of that is fun but it will save you alot of time and be worth it in the long run.

I ran autolite plugs, AR3933 if I remember right, that was the cut back ground strap #9 heat range. Don't use them until you know the tuneup is right because if you do burn a ground strap on one you will have absolultey hurt a piston.

 

They may suck for sure, but they aren't projected, but after looking at them again you have me wondering.

 

When I got the Autolites I asked them (auto zone) if they had B8EFS first. They pulled up straight to a 1049 but it wasn't something they stocked they had to order. I was curious then so I asked about a B9EFS. They pulled up, but again didn't stock them and had to order. Curious I asked for B10EFS and they didn't pull up anything which I kinda figured. So I asked for BR7EF and they pulled up and they did stock those, but didn't have any left. The autolights I got cross referenced to the BR7EF. The TR55 on the left I pulled out of the motor at the track. I drove to the track on these and they have been in the motor for all my passes made so far. The plug on the left is a used Autolite from the above picture.

 

11.8-11.9 mostly but on the last pass I saw 12.0-12.1 I don't know if that was a misfire from the plug boot or what, but I am sure I was down a cylinder on the one pass at least.

For being down a cylinder, hitting it 250' out, the results aint half bad!

And you can see in the picture I just posted where I have tried to cut that plug open. Am I cutting in the right spot?

 

Do the strap on those look like a shiny aluminum?

 

FYI: Summit got me a box full of plugs in 2 days, B8EFS and B9EFS that is. I had same problem w/local parts guys not stocking them.

 

How much shipping?

I joined a parts place online last week that was suggested by some nitrous guys on yellowbullet to another member. They had 8's, 9's, and 10's for 1.50 each in a box of 10 and shipping was cheap.

I need to check my e-mail and see if they confirmed my membership. It was free so I figured I should at least buy some from them.

 

wow, thats a better deal than I got. I may look at them.

 

I'm trying to find that e-mail I got my confirmation message for signing up from, but they hadn't allowed me to sign in yet.

I may have to get the site name from that thread again. They said it took them 3-4 days to recognize their membership. That is the guys that ordered from the site I am speaking of from YB.

I figured at 1.50 a plug 10 plugs that's 45 bucks for 40 plugs 5 passes at the very least and I am saving all of my plugs that I am checking now after one pass to re-use once I get a handle on certain tune-ups so I don't just waste them.