03EBZ06

$2.39 a plug plus $9.95 shipping.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Looks like a projected tip to me.
Get rid of the autolites !

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

After doing research it is indeed a projected tip. It's their "power tip" which is shorter than a normal projected, but not a non-projected as you are suppose to use. Is it as bad as a Tr6 or Tr7 maybe not, is it optimal or ideal? Hell no. They are gone trust me. I'm going to use the other set I have left for warming the car up or just street driving.

Freaking vato zone man, never again. Waiting on Napa to call me to say my B8's B9's are in.

Wayne what do you see on that strap? The same thing I said? No heat? No timing mark?

10secZ28

iTrader: (6)

pictures are tough to see anything, but it looks like the mark is about halfway down the strap before the bend, autolites are tough to read sometimes i had them in my ss, i like the ngk's much better.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Dont see any heat on it but it takes more heat to put a mark on the autolites.
Most time you have to make more than 1 pass to get heat on them, the straps are thicker and stronger thats why when you burn a strap on a autolite there is no question the motor is hurt. NGK's sometimes you get lucky and dont hurt anything. NGK much easier to read. IMO.

Start over with the tune now that you have right plugs, you didnt learn anything from those autolites.

camscam02

iTrader: (21)

call your local oriellys (used to be Kragen), give them NGK 1049 they are usually $1.70ish and usually stock them in a warehouse in dixon so they should be there next day. Thats what we usually do

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Yes. I wouldn't run them unless you have a good handle on your tuneup. The ground strap on them is STRONG, try to gap one and you will see... that being said, you burn one of those and you will be pulling a head and looking stuff over, if not worse. Only good part about them is that once you have a good handle on your tuneup, and know things are o.k. and you're not making changes anymore, you can run them, and run them several times before you have to replace them. I was able to get an entire day out of a set, no issues, they seem to stay cleaner, etc.

I wouldn't try to learn a tune up with them though, they are a little harder to read, and again, you see the tip get nipped off one of them you're in trouble.

10secZ28

iTrader: (6)

Maybe its me trying to look at those on my phone, or the actual pictures, but it sure looks like a mark on those plugs

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

There are 2 or 3 that you can see some heat beginning to show on the tip.

I use the analogy of sticking a piece of iron in a kiln and as the heat begins to absorb in the metal the heat moves further and further up the strap/metal.

It looks like on the very tip of some of them you can see heat, and on the first set of plugs I made a pass on it was looking like the timing was either right before the bend or in the bend, then again it was hard to judge.

I am not going to add any timing at all, and in fact I am going to do the opposite by pulling more and leaning it out.

Here is my plan for the next outing, I wanted to get you guys opinion for procedure.

First thing is I will have NGK's in -8 and -9 on hand with me.

Second I would like to make a pass with the NGK's and the original tune-up I was running on the autolites which was/is 62N 38F 58psi FP and 21 degrees total timing(I thought it was 20, but it's 21 as we are pulling timing from the AFR correction table for spark so we can remember how much we pulled easily and not just a total timing number). I would like to see what the heat looks like on the NGK's with that tune-up.

Third. If that tune-up I was running above (62n 38f 58psi 21 total) shows no heat, and no timing mark with the -8's like it did with the -7's I would like to move from the 38f jet to a 35F jet. I also have a 34 jet and a 33 jet.

Should I go from the 38 to a 35 or should I jump down more straight to the 33 and not even mess with the 34 or 35?

I want to do this right, but don't want to make passes that aren't necessarily going to change much.

I would like to see the AFR go from 11.7-11.9 where it was at first to 12.3-12.5 and get a reading on the porcelain like that.

I think I know the answer and that is go slow use the 35, then the 34 then the 33 to fine tune it where I want it.

My next tuning question is once I get the 150 lined out, would it be alright/wise to try the 200 shot tune-up with the way they have it on the jetting card knowing it's probably going to be richer than I want it? The card says 78/46...I don't have any other .040 range jets aside from the .046 I was thinking it would probably end up around the 38f jet that I do have.

What do you guys think about this?

10secZ28

iTrader: (6)

Just looked at those plugs again with my laptop lol big difference, yea i also don't see heat on them, for some reason my phone makes everything darker.

03EBZ06

if it helps, I noticed recently that 1 jet size was close to 0.5 AFR. I like the step down idea.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Is that .05 or .5?

I guess I should buy some .040 jets.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

I'm glad you concur

10secZ28

iTrader: (6)

i'm glad that your glad that i concur

camscam02

iTrader: (21)

I see about .2 per fuel jet change. I would start 62 35 18 degrees total with 8's in it. That should be damn close and Im sure you can add timing after that and fine tune. 33 to 32 is usually the jet it ends up being but every car is a little different.

As far as fuel jets, if you want to do it right have every jet from 30-50... you could sneak by with every other but I still like to have the adjustability for my mind. I usually go up about 2-3 fuel jet sizes per every 10 or so nitrous jet sizes. Just what I do and might not work for everybody

n2ols1cam

right now i am at 21 degrees of timing with 62 34 jets in with a 9 plug. do you think thats safe? my afr is between 11.8-12.4 and i have a forged bottom end if that makes a difference. im also on 93 oct and pulling for the rails.

camscam02

iTrader: (21)

sounds close. Probably don't need the 9's but they're fine for now. take away timing and see if it slows down or the opposite. Id take away timing first though and see what happens. haha

goodluck

n2ols1cam

ok, thanks man. it seems to like it at 21 degrees but i havent checked the plugs yet, im only going by the wideband. is 21 degrees safe or on the high side?

camscam02

iTrader: (21)

Could be?? I couldn't tell you anything without seeing a plug. Same goes for fuel... seems ok, but without seeing a plug how do I know the wideband is correct...

basically you're in the right ballpark that I see on average, no idea if it is correct for YOUR setup and your weather conditions

n2ols1cam

ok, that answers my question. i just wanted to be in the ballpark for right now.