dyno n20 tunning need some suggestions and hp input
#62
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on the noids fuel 16941-snos nitrous 16931-snos that's what they say on them may be that will help. tuner is charging me 250 the dyno is charging me 80hr. how long would i expect to get it tuned? i only have 350 for this...
i had to bring the idle up 100 rpm for the car to idle after the intake swap victor jr. is this normal
i had to bring the idle up 100 rpm for the car to idle after the intake swap victor jr. is this normal
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It sounds like these guys are telling you to just have this guy pull back the timming and tune your car with the jets. If you have a wideband in the car it won't coast you anything but gas, nitrous, more br7efs #3346 and time. From my understanding you should get your afr's to about 12.0ish then start plug reading. As long as your N/A tune is ok I understand you can tune for spray with the jets and have a safe amount of timming just for insurance. Correct me if I'm wrong guys.
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RTCTTFMF ?
if he tunes it to lets say 12.0 and pull the safe timing. can i tune by plug without wide band? i don't have a wide band.
will the lead kill the wide band o2s ?
i usually run the 110 sunoco when i spray for some peace of mind.
if he tunes it to lets say 12.0 and pull the safe timing. can i tune by plug without wide band? i don't have a wide band.
will the lead kill the wide band o2s ?
i usually run the 110 sunoco when i spray for some peace of mind.
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i know but that's all i got to make me stick for now. i will jump on some mt dr when i get a chance. im looking for heads and cam swap in the near future ported 243s and when i done with the 346 ill be putting the heads and cam in to the 370ci
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i went tr6 and iv always had a lil misfire like idle and it runs fine on part to open throttle. now that there gaped .30 its a lil bit more noticeable i don't know if it will be any different.
guys if the tuner get my air fuel ratio good. can i tune the car just by looking at the plug without the wide band? or is it a bad idea..
guys if the tuner get my air fuel ratio good. can i tune the car just by looking at the plug without the wide band? or is it a bad idea..
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u did my bad. let me re wright it.
when i went tr6 i always noticed that i had a lil misfire at idle and it runs fine on part to open throttle. now that there gaped .30 its a lil bit more noticeable. i don't know if it will be any different with the br7 will it be more noticeable
I apologize
when i went tr6 i always noticed that i had a lil misfire at idle and it runs fine on part to open throttle. now that there gaped .30 its a lil bit more noticeable. i don't know if it will be any different with the br7 will it be more noticeable
I apologize
#75
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Try to always keep your bottle pressure around 950 and don't spray it any lower than 900psi. Bottle pressure varies from person to person and what they like to use, just be consistent with what pressure you are spraying on as the bottle pressure will mess with the afr if not kept consistent.
Ok as far as tuning it yourself without a wideband. No you do not need a wideband, but it makes it nice to be able to verify what you are seeing on the plug is in line with what afr range you are looking for on your tune-up.
You will need to do some research on what a good plug looks like so you know what to look for. It doesn't happen over night.
Always pull 2 degrees timing for every 50hp of nitrous and then add another 3-4 degrees to that total if using pump gas. Even if your using race gas I would still pull an extra 2 degrees on top of the 2x50hp standard because once you leave your tuner you cannot adjust the timing unless you have an MSD unit to do so, Timing tuner, or LPE LNC-002.
You can do this yourself it just takes some time and being confident in your abilities and knowing when to ask for help like you are doing.
I think you have a couple tuning issues as far as the idle and misfires go, but you should be able to get that addressed on the dyno with your tuner.
And non-projected tip plugs have been around for a long time they are nothing new.
Just the knowledge is new to some people
RTCTTFMF= Radial Tire Car to the Front Mother ******
See sig
Also your tuner won't set the AFR that you will be running on nitrous. That is the job of the fuel jet and fuel pressure the fuel enrichment for the nitrous is being run at.
Have him set the AFR around 12.9-13.1 on motor and then go by the jetting card for your first run.
Pull the plugs after the first run and get a reading on them. Then begin to fine-tune the fueling side if the timing mark looks safe and isn't in the bend or past it. You can begin to lean it out with smaller fuel jets until the fuel ring on the porcelain is clean. While leaning it out though you may get to a point where the timing mark is in the bend after going down a fuel jet. If this happens stop where you are and run it on the tune-up you had in previous to that.
I would then take it back to your tuner and have him pull more timing so you can continue to lean it out. You might also end up with a B8EFS plug in the end once you lean it out to where it should be.
Ok as far as tuning it yourself without a wideband. No you do not need a wideband, but it makes it nice to be able to verify what you are seeing on the plug is in line with what afr range you are looking for on your tune-up.
You will need to do some research on what a good plug looks like so you know what to look for. It doesn't happen over night.
Always pull 2 degrees timing for every 50hp of nitrous and then add another 3-4 degrees to that total if using pump gas. Even if your using race gas I would still pull an extra 2 degrees on top of the 2x50hp standard because once you leave your tuner you cannot adjust the timing unless you have an MSD unit to do so, Timing tuner, or LPE LNC-002.
You can do this yourself it just takes some time and being confident in your abilities and knowing when to ask for help like you are doing.
I think you have a couple tuning issues as far as the idle and misfires go, but you should be able to get that addressed on the dyno with your tuner.
And non-projected tip plugs have been around for a long time they are nothing new.
Just the knowledge is new to some people
RTCTTFMF= Radial Tire Car to the Front Mother ******
See sig
Also your tuner won't set the AFR that you will be running on nitrous. That is the job of the fuel jet and fuel pressure the fuel enrichment for the nitrous is being run at.
Have him set the AFR around 12.9-13.1 on motor and then go by the jetting card for your first run.
Pull the plugs after the first run and get a reading on them. Then begin to fine-tune the fueling side if the timing mark looks safe and isn't in the bend or past it. You can begin to lean it out with smaller fuel jets until the fuel ring on the porcelain is clean. While leaning it out though you may get to a point where the timing mark is in the bend after going down a fuel jet. If this happens stop where you are and run it on the tune-up you had in previous to that.
I would then take it back to your tuner and have him pull more timing so you can continue to lean it out. You might also end up with a B8EFS plug in the end once you lean it out to where it should be.
Last edited by Fbodyjunkie06; 05-03-2012 at 08:01 PM.
#76
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dam thanks for the info. i might do it on the dyno but i don't know yet i have to see my cash and see what i can do. RTCTTFMF i like that. im going to be using the slicks cuz it's all i have for now, then ill jump in to some m/t dr's.
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any one have some input on a alright off the shelf cam for this intake. i know i will end up putting the eps pat spec cam, but im just curious to see. i was thinking Texas Speed 233/239 .595"/.603" on a 113lsa sense its close to what pat specked out for me just a tad smaller. he told me the other one might be to big for the ls1 but good for the 370ci...