Dry shot tuning question
#1
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From: wentzville, MO
Dry shot tuning question
I had my car tuned after my cam swap to basically max out my NA setup. Now I have a dry shot that I have not sprayed in a while and once I get a bigger fuel pump I wouldn't mind spraying it again. I've heard recently that I will need to fatten up my NA tune before I can spray the dry shot. Is that true? I thought that with dry shot tuning that you don't need to mess with the NA tune, and that the tuning on the spray is done with the way the nozzle is being aimed at the MAF.
So basically my question is, do I need to have my tune redone in order to spray again? I have a timing tuner to take care of the timing aspect also.
So basically my question is, do I need to have my tune redone in order to spray again? I have a timing tuner to take care of the timing aspect also.
#2
My understanding is a Dry shot is when only nitrous is injected and you tune in the needed fuel.
A wet shot is a system that will inject fuel and nitrous. So you dont have to compensate for the fuel in the tune. Only the timing
Someone correct me if im wrong
A wet shot is a system that will inject fuel and nitrous. So you dont have to compensate for the fuel in the tune. Only the timing
Someone correct me if im wrong
#4
Oh ok that makes sense. I have never ran a dry shot only a wet.
So my question is:
If your maf is calibrated for example between 8000-9000hz to run a 11.5AFR with the nitrous. When you run without the nitrous does it still run that 11.5AFR between 8000-9000hz? Maybe someone else can chime in.
So my question is:
If your maf is calibrated for example between 8000-9000hz to run a 11.5AFR with the nitrous. When you run without the nitrous does it still run that 11.5AFR between 8000-9000hz? Maybe someone else can chime in.
#6
I'm running arguably the Largest Dry kit around 60+150+75=285
spraying though the MAF is a bad Idea..
if you think the PCM will compensate, you my in for a big suprise...
Always use a WideBand when spraying any size shot..
I have a complete right up on the correct way to do a dry kit..
I can post a link if you'd like
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#8
this is for a 04 GTO I don't know if your PCM has all the same fields
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthr...896&highlight=
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthr...896&highlight=
#10
commanded AFR is at 11.4 the max timing is 19* and with toque management -IAT even less
So you can spray a 75-100 dry shot with little issue..
you would bring the AFR up to around 12.5 or so and with only 19* of timing you were fine..
Now you have all these cars being tuned commanded AFR is now 12.8 or so and running 25-26* of timing...
spray the same 75-100 and BOOM good by #7
Picture of my setup
#12
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From: wentzville, MO
At what point did it come out that pre maf was not the way to spray dry? I remember Robert56 helping me decide where to install my nozzle in my lid and he knew his stuff. Granted he hasnt posted here in two years, he was the dry guru at one point.
Was there a big revelation about premaf spraying that contradicts even whats in the stickies right now on dry?
Was there a big revelation about premaf spraying that contradicts even whats in the stickies right now on dry?
#13
I have been spraying dry nitrous pre-maf for years with no issues.
I know there are folks looking at your thread so hopefully they may provide input to help you. Hardcore has had great success, so I would read his thread in detail for sure. Timing is very important.
N2
I know there are folks looking at your thread so hopefully they may provide input to help you. Hardcore has had great success, so I would read his thread in detail for sure. Timing is very important.
N2
#15
Nitrous outlet has a dry kit called "Halo".
It is a rectangular spray bar that sits under the intake lid. There are holes drilled in opposing sides, so that when you spray, the opposing jets spray the nitrous into the lid, where the nitrous streams converge. The resulting fog is they sucked into/past the maf, which will read the mixture, and adjust the amount of fuel sprayed for a good afr.
Allthough I have not used the kit, I do remember reading in several posts about the results. Seems to work pretty well.
It is a rectangular spray bar that sits under the intake lid. There are holes drilled in opposing sides, so that when you spray, the opposing jets spray the nitrous into the lid, where the nitrous streams converge. The resulting fog is they sucked into/past the maf, which will read the mixture, and adjust the amount of fuel sprayed for a good afr.
Allthough I have not used the kit, I do remember reading in several posts about the results. Seems to work pretty well.
#17
Nitrous outlet has a dry kit called "Halo".
It is a rectangular spray bar that sits under the intake lid. There are holes drilled in opposing sides, so that when you spray, the opposing jets spray the nitrous into the lid, where the nitrous streams converge. The resulting fog is they sucked into/past the maf, which will read the mixture, and adjust the amount of fuel sprayed for a good afr.
Allthough I have not used the kit, I do remember reading in several posts about the results. Seems to work pretty well.
It is a rectangular spray bar that sits under the intake lid. There are holes drilled in opposing sides, so that when you spray, the opposing jets spray the nitrous into the lid, where the nitrous streams converge. The resulting fog is they sucked into/past the maf, which will read the mixture, and adjust the amount of fuel sprayed for a good afr.
Allthough I have not used the kit, I do remember reading in several posts about the results. Seems to work pretty well.
#20
Listen to hardcore he knows his stuff!!! He is the one that tunes my truck...great guy and drives one of the fastest goats so that means something. He gave me a great point...fuel was never intended to be sprayed through the intake...it can stick inside to the runners causing lean condition or backfire...doesn't seem wise to me unless you go direct port but getting can get costly .