Reaction .5379
60ft 1.6991
330ft 4.7780
ET@594Ft 6.8899
1/8 ET 7.3611
1/8 MPH 95.51
1000 ET 9.5842
1/4 ET 11.44
1/4 MPH 120.97 MPH

On a 100 Shot Sprayed off the line
20-35 MPH Side Wind Track Pred Wasnt That Good

I think change out the jets to 150 Shot and 10.99 will be possible I can work on the 60ft aswell

Here is a video its terrible though



Update
Nitrous Outlet Plate System With Accesory Package 3 Nitrous Outlet Window Switch Plus Racetronixs Fuel Pump With Hot Wire Kit
Got the Car Retuned

Old Tune 355 RWHP 353RWTQ
NA 412.8 RWHP 387.9RWTQ
On 100 shot 500.03 RWHP 486.7 RWTQ

Dyno Graphs Attachted Let me know if everything looks good Tunner Told me That 125 or 150 would be risky He told me 500 is max on the ls1 rods to do safely

Any thoughts about my number would be greatly appreciated

 

Thats a pretty killer time for spinning so much with bolt ons,the best thing you can do is call n/o and talk with them, i would stick to wet, you will say you only wanna run a 100 shot but sooner or later prob sooner you will want to spray more, dave can hook ya up with all the parts/info you need, there is not a better company when it comes to quality/customer service etc

 

Is your AFR 11.0 on motor?

 

yes a little rich but runs good

 

Whew, you need to get that taken care of asap.

It shouldn't be richer than 12.8-13.0 on motor.

 

http://www.jegs.com/p/ZEX-Nitrous/ZE...45583/10002/-1

I am running that kit and have been really happy with it. Add a window switch,fill the bottle, and it's ready to run. Install was pretty simple as well.

Don't forget to change spark plugs to a colder plug and have a few degrees of timing pulled. Just my opinion, but I wouldn't go above 100 shot

 

Just grab a Zex kit. Makes the install so much easier.

 

if you are on 11 afr on motor that is rich! what do your bolt ons consist of??

 

-Hooker Long tube Headers
-Texas Speed True Dual exhaust with dynomax bullet mufflers
-MTI Clear Lid
-SLP Smooth Bellow
-Comp 231/237 .598 .598 114 LSA Camshaft
-TSP Hardened Pushrods
-PRC double springs good for .650 lift
-LS6 Intake Manifold painted red to match the car
-LS7 Clutch
-LS2 Flywheel
-Moser 12 bolt with 4:10 gears
-UMI torque arm
-Hotchkis panhard bar
-BMR lower control arms
-Dyno tuned 360RWHP/355 RWTQ AFR's- 11.0

 

When I had the stock LS1 in mine I had - Ebay stainless headers, Lid, 4:10's, LS6 intake,stock heads 853, SLP loudmouth and made 353whp torque was very good as well but dont remember off hand. You're numbers are somewhat low IMHO.

Nitrous will help a ton dont get me wrong, but if you cant hook 1st gear on motor hows the nitrous going to help you? On a single 150 shot my car made 675whp/775wtq (tq peaked high I know) and at the track on an ET street I can stick most of first gear. You should get your traction figured out and a tune to get those numbers where they should be.

 

Your car should make 400rwhp.

I'm sorry whoever told you that tune was ok or was safe is very wrong and needs to stop tuning that way.

I would never run a motor N/A under 12.8 AFR and even that IMO is too rich.

My motor made best power and mph at 13.0-13.3 AFR. I try to keep it between 12.3-13.0afr on nitrous also for max power.

 

I know your numbers will be lower cause of the 12 bolt. But 360 is very low, Get it retuned ASAP

 

Got it booked in next week anything i should specify when the car is being tuned?

 

Find out if it's the VE table making it that rich at WOT or if it's the PE.

If it's the VE table it's going to need more work to go through it and find what is wrong, work meaning time.

If it's just the PE commanding a super rich AFR that can be changed with the type of a keyboard in seconds at once to lean it out.

If it is the PE commanding a rich AFR ask your tuner to lean it out until the wideband reads no richer than 12.8 at WOT. I would shoot for 13.0 and make it simple.

 

You should have it tuned after the nitrous install, is try to get it and install it before your appt next week

 

Ehhh, that's debatable. Unless you can get on a DJ that has the capability to load the rollers and simulate true vehicle weight or a Mustang Dyno which is an eddy current which will allow true vehicle weight simulation then I wouldn't spray it on the dyno.

It won't have enough load on it and it will most likely be pretty lean when he does spray it on the track or street.

I would get the motor tune ironed out, 13.0 afr at WOT on motor then tune the nitrous. This is if you can read plugs and have a wideband.

 

Update

Havent gotten the car tuned yet
Ordered Nitrous Oulet Plate System And Stage 3 accessory Package Plus Nitrous Outlet Window Switch

Hopefully have it on the car next week and get some dyno numbers the week after

 

1. Thats not just bolt ons lol
2. How did you get an LS7 Clutch to fit an LS2 flywheel?

 

Bump Update

 

Still looks like it's in the 11's for AFR. Needs to be 12.9-13.4 on motor and very close to that on nitrous.

Show him Carter01's videos, my videos, cams cams videos and NUMEROUS others who spray 150+ (carter01 is at 250-300 and camscam has sprayed 350 for years). Is it optimal and 100% safe? No, but if your tune is right and you have a basic understanding of how to follow instructions on how to shut your car down and read a plug or at least take pictures of them to put on here then you can safely run 150 all day long and 200 easily.

No offense to you and no offense to your tuner if he is your friend, but you need a new tuner.

You are leaving so much on the table running it rich and running rich on nitrous is way worse than running it lean because 9/10 when people run them rich they run them over timed and that can cause a melt down just as quick and easily as going too lean and too much timing.