Nitrous sputtering and not working correctly... PLZ HELP! (UPDATE PROBLEM FOUND!!!)
I dont know all the details of your system but here are a few things it could be. Fuel pressure switch, loose ground, clogged solenoid or jet, sticky solenoid, weak relay not holding, or low voltage to relay or solenoids. I would try pulling the nitous and fuel lines off, starting the car and hit the wot switch with your finger. Hold on to the lines or tie them down so they don't wip all over the place. You should be able to tell if one of the solenoids are clicking on and off or if the flow of fuel or nitrous is erratic coming out of the end of the lines. I have saw a similar problem you are having with a fuel pressure safety switch. The fuel pressure would drop just enough when the fuel solenoid opened to shut it back off, then the pressure would come back on and it would open again, on off on off... There is an allen head adjustment on them under the little rubber plug in the middle. If you are running a progressive controller a loose ground, bad connection, weak relay, or low voltage could cause the progression to start all over again, over and over and over... There should also be a diode intalled on your solenoid activation relay to prevent voltage spikes.
Good luck
Good luck
Lol yes im using those. Im using one on the arm wire-wot switch. I put it there to run a wire off to my window switch so when i arm the window switch comes on. I guess that could be my whole problem... If it is breaking my circuit off and on from my arm wire to my wot switch it could be making it. Cut in and out.
Ok guys so what is my best way to start checking things? Should i go get my voltage meter and turn my system on and start checking everything to make sure the voltage is staying consistant? And at the same time ill pull my lines and check for anything in front of the solenoids.
K here is what im thinking of checking in order...
1. Start by Pulling my lines off and checking for debree.
2. While the lines are off turn my activation switches on, hit my wot switch and listen to see if my solenoids are clicking off and on.
3. If yes than i will get my volt meter and keep my wot switch down while i check voltage in different spots.
K here is what im thinking of checking in order...
1. Start by Pulling my lines off and checking for debree.
2. While the lines are off turn my activation switches on, hit my wot switch and listen to see if my solenoids are clicking off and on.
3. If yes than i will get my volt meter and keep my wot switch down while i check voltage in different spots.
Lol yes im using those. Im using one on the arm wire-wot switch. I put it there to run a wire off to my window switch so when i arm the window switch comes on. I guess that could be my whole problem... If it is breaking my circuit off and on from my arm wire to my wot switch it could be making it. Cut in and out.
Rewire the whole kit if your using these. I would'nt look at anything else until its done. Your hot leg (30) should come from either the batt or alt. Forget tapping in for the ease of it. Ground is also dedicated, right off the head. Forget those grounds in the car.
+1 Those muthafuckas cost me a race once.
Rewire the whole kit if your using these. I would'nt look at anything else until its done. Your hot leg (30) should come from either the batt or alt. Forget tapping in for the ease of it. Ground is also dedicated, right off the head. Forget those grounds in the car.
Rewire the whole kit if your using these. I would'nt look at anything else until its done. Your hot leg (30) should come from either the batt or alt. Forget tapping in for the ease of it. Ground is also dedicated, right off the head. Forget those grounds in the car.
Ok guys after testing wires for about 10 mins I found everything to be good... Soo than I pulled my lined off and check my solenoids and they worked perfect. So I hooked the fuel up and just pressed the wot and let it spray in a bottle. I spray through both solenoids with no problem... So I hook it all back up with the bottle shut and I hit the WOT switch and let the fuel spray in the intake. I notice my fuel line going into my intake is loose and it is all spraying out at the line to fitting. SOOO I have been spraying alot more nitrous than fuel making my car stumble on the spray. The car still runs perfect, but I'm wondering how I havent done damage to the motor. I have probably sprayed it like this 10-15 times with alot of the fuel spraying out before the intake. I know it hasn't been pure n20, but it can't be good on it. I just hope no damage has been done
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geez. how did you not smell the fuel? lucky it didnt catch fire and burn up. if it runs ok, id say it will be fine most likely. maybe pull your spark plugs and read them. if they dont seem to bad you will be fine
Well it wasnt all coming out the line. I'd say prob half was going through the line and half n the intake. Plus only spraying about 10 seconds and running on the ground i think chances of a fire would be pretty small. I have a fire extinguisher in my car if anything were to ever happen. I will probably check plugs tommarow and prob change them just for the hell of it this week. I couldnt thing there could be any damage. Im getting good gas mileage, no missfire, good oil presure, runs hard, no unusual sounds.
Reading plugs at this point is useless you will not be able to tell anything by them.
The only way you would be able to tell at this point if any damage has been done by looking at the plugs is to look for peppering or shiny flecks of metal on the porcelain or if the ground strap is melted off. Reading them to see what the tune-up is doing will never work with run time on them.
Honestly if you haven't been getting any fuel with the nitrous, you're not making enough heat to do any damage in the chamber. Fuel=heat
I think I already know the answer to this question, but do you not have a wideband in the car? That would of been your first tell tale sign that something was wrong if you had one.
The only way you would be able to tell at this point if any damage has been done by looking at the plugs is to look for peppering or shiny flecks of metal on the porcelain or if the ground strap is melted off. Reading them to see what the tune-up is doing will never work with run time on them.
Honestly if you haven't been getting any fuel with the nitrous, you're not making enough heat to do any damage in the chamber. Fuel=heat
I think I already know the answer to this question, but do you not have a wideband in the car? That would of been your first tell tale sign that something was wrong if you had one.
Reading plugs at this point is useless you will not be able to tell anything by them.
The only way you would be able to tell at this point if any damage has been done by looking at the plugs is to look for peppering or shiny flecks of metal on the porcelain or if the ground strap is melted off. Reading them to see what the tune-up is doing will never work with run time on them.
Honestly if you haven't been getting any fuel with the nitrous, you're not making enough heat to do any damage in the chamber. Fuel=heat
I think I already know the answer to this question, but do you not have a wideband in the car? That would of been your first tell tale sign that something was wrong if you had one.
The only way you would be able to tell at this point if any damage has been done by looking at the plugs is to look for peppering or shiny flecks of metal on the porcelain or if the ground strap is melted off. Reading them to see what the tune-up is doing will never work with run time on them.
Honestly if you haven't been getting any fuel with the nitrous, you're not making enough heat to do any damage in the chamber. Fuel=heat
I think I already know the answer to this question, but do you not have a wideband in the car? That would of been your first tell tale sign that something was wrong if you had one.
I think I already know the answer to this question, but do you not have a wideband in the car? That would of been your first tell tale sign that something was wrong if you had one.
