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How's my setup?

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Old Jun 25, 2012 | 06:49 PM
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Default How's my setup?

So I haven't posted in a while, but I finally scored a well-paying job and I am ready to jump on some nitrous. My car is 2000 T/A with full bolt-ons and a 3600 stall. I make 345rwhp and I also just got HP Tuners, a WB O2, and Masport's book on tuning. I know it isn't a definitive guide, but it does offer a lot of direction in tuning safely. Anyways, I want to run Dave's wet kit with a window switch. I was going to start at 100 and move up later to a 150. Two questions, is this shot safe? What RPM range would be good to spray in on a stock head/cam motor with an LS6 manifold?

Thanks!!
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Old Jun 25, 2012 | 06:58 PM
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100 or 150 is fine. IF your tuned for bolt ons, just get the Lingenfelter box to pull your timing. Some people shoot 100 shot as is, but I dont recommend it though. Im sure others will chime in. If you like buildin things theres a how to on an LS timing controller on here also
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 05:12 AM
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You will be just fine with that size shot. The size of the shot determines how much timing you need to pull. I have seen guys running over a 300 shot on stock motors, as long as you take the right timing out you will be alright. Also depends on if your motor is solid, the nitrous will let you know if there are any weak parts in the motor. As far as a RPM range, At first I would recommend nothing less then 3000RPM's. A high point would be around 6000 to 6500RPM's. What are you spinning your motor to and shifting at?
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Old Jun 28, 2012 | 07:21 AM
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The shift points are all stock (maybe bumped up a little, I haven't looked at my tune yet). Rev limiter is the same story. I can't get the converter to flash below about 4k RPM, so I guess I'm fine on the low end haha! I'm making sure I do this as safe as possible. 2 deg every 50hp on the shot.
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Old Jun 28, 2012 | 07:36 AM
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Just remember after you put the kit on the car and run it to not only rely on your wideband, but to read your plugs!!!
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 04:59 PM
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Chris@NitroDaves
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To elaborate on the post above...

If you decide to read the plugs make sure that after the 1/4mile pass or after you at least do a 5-6 second blast immediately kill the car and coast to stop. That away you get a true reading on the plug. As little as 10seconds idle time can washa plug and give an inaccurate reading. This link will also help with the plug reading http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/sparkplugreading.html
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 08:14 AM
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Thanks for link Chris, I was looking for that.
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Old Jul 15, 2012 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris@NitroDaves
To elaborate on the post above...

If you decide to read the plugs make sure that after the 1/4mile pass or after you at least do a 5-6 second blast immediately kill the car and coast to stop. That away you get a true reading on the plug. As little as 10seconds idle time can washa plug and give an inaccurate reading. This link will also help with the plug reading http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/sparkplugreading.html
That link states to read the "fuel of the plug" where the threads are. I've been on this forum and section for quite some time now and have seen pics from all the big guys on here Shiz, ATV, Cam, Carter, Firehawk441, and so on that have the threads cut off and reading the fuel ring at the base of the porcelain. I don't think I can trust reading it like the link says.

I'm sticking to what I know and what I have learned.
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