Just purchased a 93 mustang notch from a member on here, motor specs are
LQ4 rebuilt with ARP rod bolts
Custom Comp cam .620 lift
L92 heads with .650 valve springs
L92 Gm performance Single plane intake
Fuel
Holley 750dp with Proform main body for E-85
Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump and regulator
-10 feed fuel line
-8 return fuel line
Msd 6010 programable ingition
Taylor Plug wires
Fast E85 Dual Bank Wideband Controller

car has an edelbrock nitrous kit, jetted for 100 shot right now, timing for nitrous runs is at 28 degrees and was told all motor its best at 32. i was wondering if that seems like alot of timing? from what ive read it seems like its more than what most run but i know every car is different. next question is from what ive read i should be running br7's, the car has tr6's in it now, i wasnt sure if these plugs are ok since running e-85 or not, i havent sprayed the car at all yet and the first time i plan to ill put in a new set of plugs and shut it down to read plugs after but wanted to see how this setup sounds and if i should change anything before hand

 

Here is my take on this, because you are on e85 it can usually tolerate a bit more timing but as you said the plugs will tell the tale, i also agree to get rid of the tr6's and go with a 7. Now I'm not sure what your experience level is with reading plugs, but reading a plug on e85 is nothing like reading one on gasoline with the exception of the timing mark.

 

Help him out Branden!

 

I have no experience reading plugs on a nitrous car, trying to learn as much as i can before i spray it, looking to go to the 1/8 friday

 

basically because the ethanol burns cleaner than gasoline you will not be reading your porcelain for fueling. you will basically be reading the base ring on the plug and the strap for tuning. when you make a pass as you know shut the car off at the stripe and either get towed back or pull off on the return road and check them, you will need a can of carb cleaner, if you spray your plugs and the plug is very shiney/ very new looking you are actually very rich, and the opposite goes if you pull one out and the base ring is black and wont come off, this means your are very lean. the ideal fueling will be and oxidized or greyish 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn color on the base ring with a small portion of unburned cadium. once you get the fueling close you can work on timing, keep in mind before you even get to this point i would yank out 5 or 6 degrees from your base tune, which is way over kill for a 100 shot but better safe than sorry. once the fuel is where it needs to be now start watching the strap and reference everything with the slip, others on here will likely do things different than me, but i dont ever add timing unless the slip keeps picking up mph so reference timing and the slip together. Where i think people get in trouble is chasing a timing mark and then they end up torching a piston.



Holy **** Martin and others.......lol its hard to do a step by step explanation on a keyboard, also feel free to add in if i missed anything as im doing all of this on a phone.

 

ok, the car has been sprayed before and previous owner said it was rich on the 100 shot, i think if i make it out friday and spray it ill throw in some br7's and check em on the return road and go from there. sounds like its a little tougher tuning with nitrous and e-85

 

it is a whole new learning curve on e85, if its rich then work on the fueling first and like i said be sure to pull excess timing out of the motor BEFORE you start leaning out the motor, low timing will not hurt anything but performance, too much timing will hurt ****.

 

I also don't like chasing a timing mark.

I like to get the heat where I like it and keep it in the general area of 1/8" from the tip of the strap and I keep the heat/timing mark away from the bend by an 1/8" basically I like to see my heat in the middle of the flat portion of the strap.

IMO if the mark or heat is in the bend or touching the bend it's over timed which is why I don't really chase it. I've found if it's in the area I mentioned and lean then the tune is good, safe and makes the power I want. I'd rather jet up the nitrous side than add timing chasing a e.t. number.

 

I agree with everything if you have the right heat range plug in the car.....what happens if you go a little to cold on the plug and it's not showing the heat as well.....putting the timing in the "flat portion" could cause big problems right?

 

i made some test runs on the bottle tonite, ngk br7's gapped at .32, 68n/68f in the edelbrock plate, timing is 32 until 3000 then droping to 26 by 4000, on e85 remember, afr was 7.2-7.3, i wasnt sure if i could try my next jet down which is a 57 on fuel side or not, ive heard guys doing it with gas but thought i might be too lean on e85 to do it, should i give it a short run and try or?

 

any suggestions before i got to track tonite? rite now i have 7* of timing pulled out by 4000 with the 150 jet, previous owner said he ran 68n/57f jetting and afr was at 7.6-7.9 which i dont think would be bad but if i try this should i pull another degree out or is it safe enuf at 7* pulled?

 

also can i still run a br7 plug with a 175 jet and e-85? if so i could try 78n/68f jetting and atleast its one less jet spread.

 

Try to add a little nitrous jet to your current fuel pill while taking another degree of timing out. Do you have a 72-73 pill?

175 shot with BR7's on E85 should be just fine.

If you're going to go over 200-225 I'd start thinking about B8EFS plugs.

 

Not very good luck last nite, 4 passes only 1 good. Kept comin out of 2nd gear, i think i wasnt pulln shiter back far enuf, best 1/8 was 6.73 , 1.5x 60', at 100 but i shifted from 1st to 3rd pretty much cuz i was afraid it wasnt in 2nd all way. Never stayed in it all through 1/4 but i did coast to a 10.8 at 99 mph lol. Those were all on 68n/57f

 

And timing stayed at 25* by 4000 rpm

 

The guys have a done a good job helping you with the tuneup. Low timing and get the fuel right first.

Get the car worked out before spraying again. Everything needs to be 100% before you start playing with power adders.

 

Check your shifter linkage.

 

Ya im going to double check it but i think it was just me, with the way i grab shifter to not hit tb button on top and being strapped in with the harness and getting worked up with it being my second time to a track ever. Hoping to go to an 1/8 next fri and get it in 6.30-6.50 range

 

Is it a hurst shifter with the handle trigger that needs to be squeezed to shift into 3rd?

I have done that twice before when the car went for the sky it pulled me back into the seat so far and the G forces literally pulled my hand back into the handle trigger and I ended up right between 2nd and 3rd and it ended up falling into 3rd gear.

 

Its a b&m shifter, just lookd at slip again my mph was 106.6 not 100