speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I posted this on the Bullet too, but I thought it would be wise to get opinions from the LS specific crowd too.

I will be pushing my luck with a 150 shot on my junkyard LS motor. I have a few questions to reduce the risk as much as possible. Here is my non nitrous combo:

Car: 65 Skylark
Engine: LQ9 (6.0 Iron Block) 10.9:1 compression ratio - Factory cast pistons :O
Heads: LS6 CNC ported factory heads
Cam: 226/234 .598"/.612" 110 LSA on 108 ICL
Intake: Victor Jr.
Exhaust: Doug's 1 3/4" with full 3" duals
Carburetor: Holley 750 HP upgraded 4777 with billet base plate
Squirters: 40/40
Pump shot size fr/rr: 30/30
Fuel System: Aeromotive S/S pump with return style regulator
Ignition System: MSD 6010
Total timing: 28 degrees
Base timing: 26 degrees
Spark Plugs: NGK TR6
Plug Gap: .040"
Jetting pri/sec: 74/90 (with primary PVCR drilled to .051")
Power valve: 6.5
Air bleeds: stock
Rear gear: 3.90
Shiftpoint: 6400-6600
Stall: 2800 Flashing from 1600 RPM on launch
Transmission: TH200-4R
Tire size: 275/60R15 Mickey Thompson Drag Radials
Trap rpm: 5900
Car: 1965 Buick Skylark
Raceweight: 3725 w/driver
Best 60' 1.64
Best E.T. 7.22
Best MPH @ 96.53
Roughly 11.30s @ 118 or so in the 1/4

The nitrous stuff:
NOS Cheater Kit
Purge
Dedicated Holley regulator
Fuel pressure safety cut off switch
Bottle Pressure gauge

My specific questions:

Pull about 6 degrees of timing to start?

I run around and race on the motor with 93 octane pump gas. I assume I should be mixing in racing fuel for additional safety. What fuel? What ratio can I mix it with my pump gas? 50/50? Racing fuel only or else?

Most things I have read say to run:NGK Stock# 3346 ( Br7ef ) Plugs gapped at about .030"?

Any other suggestion and observations appreciated, but I would like to know your thoughts on the 3 items above.
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Neal@NitrousOutlet

Yeah you are definitely going to be wanting to run those BR7. Gap can come up to 32.

Starting out with 6 degrees of timing will be a good starting point. From there you would want to see where the timing mark on the plugs are and adjust. You might be able to add some timing back in or might have to remove some timing out.

You should be ok on 93 but for that added safety you could definitely throw some 110 in the mix to have your self covered.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I have read some posts where they say it is harder to read the plugs on pump gas. Thoughts?

WhiteLTone

iTrader: (18)

Timing mark is usually pretty easy to read on the non projected tip ngks as long as there is enough heat in the plug.

Are you using the msd 6010? If so you could build an n20 tune where you pull 6deg out up top using the retard function. Ive been experimenting actually using the base timing settings and added timing to that down low so when the n20 retard pulls the 6. In all reality its only pulling 4 or so down low right around at stall speed but full -6 deg up in 5500-7500.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I did not know that 6010 had a timing retard function. I thought I would just have to add a nitrous timing file.

WhiteLTone

iTrader: (18)

I believe its the pink wire attatched to the harness with the rev limit and 2 step wires. You will apply 12v to that wire when the nitrous comes on. And in the software theres a menu for retatd with 0-15 degrees available to pull. But it will pull 6 from the whole base timing curve. Which i didnt want so i went into my base timing and added a degree or two down low so essentially when that 6 is pulled its only pulling 4-5 until after my converter flashes and after that itll pull the true 6 where itbmakes peak power. Hope im not confusing ya.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I will have to pull out the instructions and check that out. It would be nice not to have to change timing files everytime I want to make a pass.

WhiteLTone

iTrader: (18)

Well you could jus pull 6 straight degrees from your motor tune using the retard function and try that ive done that many times and unless yer n20 is active meaning the msd wire has 12v your timing will be as it was on motor

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Also, I am considering this unit to help ease the stress on my drivetrain: http://www.holley.com/15835BNOS.asp

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

You don't need a progressive on that small of a shot.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

We'll see if my stock axles and mildy built trans agree with you. I hope they hang in there for some 10 second passes.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

This is my proposed wiring set up. Thoughts?