igtabg1

iTrader: (3)

Well after a lot of reading and lurking on the forms i finally took the plunge to install my Frankenstein nitrous kit that I've been piecing together for about a year. This is my first nitrous install and Iam not done with the install just thought i would start this thread so i can document my install and what not.
A little bit about the car; Its a 2001 Corvette with Texas Speed longtubes, not cats, SLP loudmouth, Vararam cold air intake, billet 3600 stall, 3.15 gears,and the rest is stock. So now for the good stuff... the kit is a brand X with a nano 4500 both i got from this forum some time ago, it will running through a nitrous outlet plate, Nitrous outlet switch panel, Brand x purge, fpss, msd window switch,Dual billet bottle holders, etc. etc. But during this install I do have some questions.
1.could i switch the plugs out now and still drive on my current tune? or should i just wait to install my colder plugs when i get the car tuned for nitrous?
well that's the only question i have for now. but any feed back would be greatly appreciated.
Now for the good stuff..
The noids

Another view

This is where i pulled the power from

The bottle bracket dont mind the sippy cup lol

The bottles

picture of last time i was expermenting with installing the plate, its so close but still like half a inch off :ack: while i pushing the bridge down....

I've talked to vararam and tried moving the maf to the bottom and using the longer coupler but that wasnt much help either, i just figured i'd save the plate install for last.



Charles

03EBZ06

Tune the engine OFF the nitrous. You CAN run nitrous plugs day to day, but you will lose some power. When you go for the nitrous tune, then put the nitrous plugs in using the stock tune as you suggested. You will end up with cooler cylinder temps and slightly less power. For the C5, its just too easy to change them as needed.

I would consider moving the solenoids to the front manifold bolts of the intake, thereby closer to the plate and shorter lines. The fuel solenoid can then have a short rail to noid distance as well as a shorter line from noid to plate. I think it would work ok, just thought you might be interested.

Good luck w/project Frankenstein.

Neal@NitrousOutlet

You can drive your car on some BR7 no problem. I would go head and tune on some non projected tip BR7 that way your na and nitrous tune are both set up to run on the BR7. It will save you the headache of changing plugs all the time.

igtabg1

iTrader: (3)

Thanks EB I planning on moving them like you suggested. I plan this weekend on pulling the waterfall and bezel and doing all the wiring for the switch panel I like to think I have a good idea on how to wire it. The Car has a good n/a tune but I added a stall, so I figured I’d have him pull timing and tune for the stall then I fine tune off the plugs when I take it to the track. Thanks for the comments guys ill post some more pictures Saturday or Sunday when I get away from this hectic work week.

igtabg1

iTrader: (3)

Got a little more done to the car last night, nothing major just ran the wires to the WOT switch, moved the noids closer to the front, and pulled the center console now for some pics...
WOT switch

the noids moved up (much easier to connect the fuel line)

Where i will be pulling power for the switch panel

will this work for the fpss placement? im going to use the other side of the swivel mount for a fuel pressure gauge.


Now the only question i have it what fuse can i tap for the switch panel, i remember reading on the corvette forum about
fuse 11 hot when acc or on
fuse 7 hot permanent
fuse 22 switched hot
If i had to chose one i'd go with 11 or 22 but can any confirm or deny this?
Also can i run one power (lets say for my arming switch, then piggy back the power off that to my purge & bottle opener? or do i need three separate power supplies ?)
Well that's all for last night i'm going to get a lot more done tonight hopefully i can complete all the wiring and mount my nitrous gauge as well.
Thanks again guys

custm2500

iTrader: (11)

Best place for the FPSS is the trash. If you aren't going that route then it should work just fine.

igtabg1

iTrader: (3)

Why would i want to do that? i thought it was to help save my engine.
Thanks
Charles

igtabg1

iTrader: (3)

So I was able to get a little more work done last night I really wated to finish the switch panel wiring however looking at another members picture of how they Y off the power of the switch panel, it looks to be as if the spade connectors I have are not big enough to fit two wire through, however I was able to get the purge hooked up , run the wires for my remote bottle opener , and fix my hvac. So here are some pictures ... Enjoy
Got the purge hooked up


Ran the wires from the switch panel to the trunk for the remote bottle opener


Did some work on the hvac

Well that's all I have for now, also I went fuse number 22 for the power to switch panel, it's a spare and I figured if the radios guys use it why couldn't I? Also does any one know a good spot to put my ground wires near the radio ?

custm2500

iTrader: (11)

The FPSS is more of a pain in the ***. Very few people run them.

03EBZ06

The opener doesn't use much amperage, plus you need to reverse polarity to it, so just use the same source as your arming power, like you said. After all, you are generally only using one component at a time, purge, opener, arming, etc. In my case, efi live relay trigger, NOS mini and arming switch.

BTW, I see you are doing it old school, pedal switch only. Better look at a RPM window!!

igtabg1

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, yeah the only pita is getting both wires in the female spade fitting for the switch panel. I really wanted to finish all the wiring last weekend but I am in the middle of applying for another job so my play time in the garage is limited. i do have a msd window switch with 3k-6600 pills attached.
Thanks again
Charles

igtabg1

iTrader: (3)

well guys i got everything but the plate and the window switch installed, I know i've been slacking but this week has been crazy. A couple questions i had. When splicing the rmp tac wire (i was going to use the aqua color one off the coil pack) can i use the add a splice from radio shack? I just wanted to see if any one had done this before.. so now for some more pictures.
Power to the switch panel


The ground i used for the switch panel..


The remote bottle opener i had laying around..


Thanks again guys.

Charles

SargeZ06

I don't use the little splice connectors if this is what you are talking about. I solder all connections and shrink tube them. And I don't remember using an aqua color wire. I believe I used a white from the coil pack harness.

igtabg1

iTrader: (3)

Those are it, normally I solder and shrink wrap as well, I was just wondering if any one had use them, white wire ? It could be I was looking at the picture that beer99(Jim) posted on the nitrous wiring sticky here on the forum.

SargeZ06

I run out to the shop and pull the FRC and take a look again and let you know.

SargeZ06

LOL okay I have that harness pretty well wrapped up but I don't see any white wire so I guess you're right.

03EBZ06

test it out yet?

igtabg1

iTrader: (3)

Thanks sarge, I just wanted to double check before I went to attaching wires and what not.
Nahh not yet I still need fill the bottles, install the plate,and the window switch.
Then I'll have to get the timing retarded. But I'm excited I should have some more time this week to get some more work done.

igtabg1

iTrader: (3)

Well iam nearly finished with my install. I just need to fill my nitrous bottle and NANO bottle (any suggestions around the garland/ rowlett area?) and install my window switch (im being a big baby about cutting into the RMP tach wire for fear i wont be able to drive my car in till i take it to the tuner, please some one put my mind to rest on this). So here are some pictures... Ill have my gauges up this weekend (nitrous & AEM AFR)
Wires ran to the back for my nitrous gauge




everything installed except the window switch


finally got enough room to make the nitrous plate fit without cutting a bunch of stuff up

And don't be worried i'm going to modify the radiator cover shroud so my power duct will fit.
Ohh one more thing, i ordered a longer purge line because the one they send you is too short for my setup, once i get everything hooked up im going to tuck and hide all the wires.

wallas0786

did you moify the shroud? and can you post or send pictures? im going to run into the same problem haha