Here are the HSW Interface instructions...
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Here are the HSW Interface instructions...
Ive been getting alot of requests for the HSW Interface instructions and I finally got a chance to scan them. Figured I would post them up so everyone that needs them has them so here ya go...
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Thanks man for posting, im sure this would benefit us that are trying to wire this thing up. Hope one of the Moderators makes this or puts it in a sticky so it doesnt get lost and can remain readily available for the rest of us.
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Ya a sticky would be good. I know if I didnt happen to get the instructions with mine it would have turned a 5 min installation into 2 hours of searching for instructions online....
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The Picture Below, is what i currently have hooked up... Dry basic baby shot.
Its basically Power wire goint through fuse, to arm switch, to Zex Solenoid. The Zex Solenoid is triggered by signal from MAF Throttle Position Sensor to activate, and spray at WOT. It knows when its a WOT via Calibration/Voltage.
Please excuse the crappy diagram.
How to Incorporate the HSW Module to my particular set up?...
The Brown from HSW is Ground, But the Blue wire which is Power... Can I hook that up to the Arm Side of the Swith, as seen below?
The Grey Wire... Does it get removed completely and sent to the TPS wire at MAF, where the zex solenoid is hooked up to be signaled to spray?
The Grey Wire... Do i Splice into it, or cut and route to MAF TPS?
I am so paranoid about goin 100 shot, just want to be sure and ask until i completely understand the wiring so i Have no issues.
Let me know about the 2 main questions. The BLUE WIRE and The Grey Wire landing spots. And if i splice or cut grey wire from HSW Interface to be rerouted.
Its basically Power wire goint through fuse, to arm switch, to Zex Solenoid. The Zex Solenoid is triggered by signal from MAF Throttle Position Sensor to activate, and spray at WOT. It knows when its a WOT via Calibration/Voltage.
Please excuse the crappy diagram.
How to Incorporate the HSW Module to my particular set up?...
The Brown from HSW is Ground, But the Blue wire which is Power... Can I hook that up to the Arm Side of the Swith, as seen below?
The Grey Wire... Does it get removed completely and sent to the TPS wire at MAF, where the zex solenoid is hooked up to be signaled to spray?
The Grey Wire... Do i Splice into it, or cut and route to MAF TPS?
I am so paranoid about goin 100 shot, just want to be sure and ask until i completely understand the wiring so i Have no issues.
Let me know about the 2 main questions. The BLUE WIRE and The Grey Wire landing spots. And if i splice or cut grey wire from HSW Interface to be rerouted.
Last edited by LASTOFTHEBREED02T/A; 10-26-2012 at 06:36 PM.
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First off....are you not using a solenoid? I wouldnt recommend that....Have you sprayed that setup yet? Because I forsee you melting that activation switch.....you should have 12v accessory power(like cig outlet) going to the switch instead of your battery 12v....and then you run the 12v out of the switch to a relay....
Second thing.....ive never heard of using the MAF to trigger with. Not sure how that works but im not an expert. I suggest ditching that and using a WOT microswitch directly on the throttle body or under the pedal inside the car. Even if you could get a WOT signal from the MAF i wouldnt trust it to be very accurate(possibly activating before you are actually at WOT).....putting the switch directly on the throttle body arm makes it foolproof....
But heres a simple explanation.....take your current trigger wire and connect it the blue wire on the interface.....now the brown wire on the interface becomes your new trigger wire(connect it to wherever you had the previous trigger wire that you just connected to the blue )....Splice gray wire into the tan on your IAT. And your done.....But FYI the interface is supposed to be run with a relay because they dont recommend hooking it directly to the solenoids (they draw alot of current).....I have the brown trigger output activating my relay (so when my arming switch is on, the interface completes the circuit for the relay to activate it) your 12v from the battery is connected to one side of the relay that is activated and the other side gois to the solenoid and bam your spraying....this keeps the high current draw away from the interface when the noid activates(relay takes the current draw instead)....
I would recommend hooking up the white wire. The top end fueling feature will work better and will be more acurrate( the RPM signal is more accurate than the airflow readings).....On your car the white wire should go to the Red connector on the PCM (Pin #10)....again this is optional but recommended. I didnt bother to hookup the white wire because I am running a wet setup and dont need the fueling feature. With a dry setup the fueling feature is one of the coolest things about the interface, it allows to to spray a dryshot after the MAF close to the throttle body instead of having to spray it before the MAF. You just set the switches to where the instructions say to for the size shot your using and the interface has the pcm add the appropriate fuel via the injectors.
Sometimes it is more confusing to comprehend by reading than it is having someone explain it to you for you to hear...If you need help your are more than welcome to give me a call, just shoot me PM for my cell #
Second thing.....ive never heard of using the MAF to trigger with. Not sure how that works but im not an expert. I suggest ditching that and using a WOT microswitch directly on the throttle body or under the pedal inside the car. Even if you could get a WOT signal from the MAF i wouldnt trust it to be very accurate(possibly activating before you are actually at WOT).....putting the switch directly on the throttle body arm makes it foolproof....
But heres a simple explanation.....take your current trigger wire and connect it the blue wire on the interface.....now the brown wire on the interface becomes your new trigger wire(connect it to wherever you had the previous trigger wire that you just connected to the blue )....Splice gray wire into the tan on your IAT. And your done.....But FYI the interface is supposed to be run with a relay because they dont recommend hooking it directly to the solenoids (they draw alot of current).....I have the brown trigger output activating my relay (so when my arming switch is on, the interface completes the circuit for the relay to activate it) your 12v from the battery is connected to one side of the relay that is activated and the other side gois to the solenoid and bam your spraying....this keeps the high current draw away from the interface when the noid activates(relay takes the current draw instead)....
I would recommend hooking up the white wire. The top end fueling feature will work better and will be more acurrate( the RPM signal is more accurate than the airflow readings).....On your car the white wire should go to the Red connector on the PCM (Pin #10)....again this is optional but recommended. I didnt bother to hookup the white wire because I am running a wet setup and dont need the fueling feature. With a dry setup the fueling feature is one of the coolest things about the interface, it allows to to spray a dryshot after the MAF close to the throttle body instead of having to spray it before the MAF. You just set the switches to where the instructions say to for the size shot your using and the interface has the pcm add the appropriate fuel via the injectors.
Sometimes it is more confusing to comprehend by reading than it is having someone explain it to you for you to hear...If you need help your are more than welcome to give me a call, just shoot me PM for my cell #
Last edited by rpcase; 10-26-2012 at 09:02 PM.
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Yes, i am using a nitrous solenoid, its inside the Zex box I drew. Basically this box has a solenoid and calibration all in one. One of the wires from the zex solenoid box is spliced in to the Throttle Positioning sensor, and it works like a WOT switch, but using signal instead. You calibrate these by turning the ignition on, Manually put the TB at WOT while simultaneously hitting a buttom on the Zex box. It'll start flashing, and then goes solid green, indicating you are calibrated, so it'll only spray at wot.
I also think that i am getting confused, because for one, i have a totally different set up than what is normally ran, and two, my stress and being all worried is making me a lil stupid.
I have sprayed this set up many many times, untuned with a 36 pill... Which is a baby shot, and wasnt worried about hurting anything. 100 is a whole new ball game.
I think im going to take your advice and ditch the old zex box and go with something more common.
I also think that i am getting confused, because for one, i have a totally different set up than what is normally ran, and two, my stress and being all worried is making me a lil stupid.
I have sprayed this set up many many times, untuned with a 36 pill... Which is a baby shot, and wasnt worried about hurting anything. 100 is a whole new ball game.
I think im going to take your advice and ditch the old zex box and go with something more common.
Last edited by LASTOFTHEBREED02T/A; 10-27-2012 at 08:37 AM.
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Yes, i am using a nitrous solenoid, its inside the Zex box I drew. Basically this box has a solenoid and calibration all in one. One of the wires from the zex solenoid box is spliced in to the Throttle Positioning sensor, and it works like a WOT switch, but using signal instead. You calibrate these by turning the ignition on, Manually put the TB at WOT while simultaneously hitting a buttom on the Zex box. It'll start flashing, and then goes solid green, indicating you are calibrated, so it'll only spray at wot.
I also think that i am getting confused, because for one, i have a totally different set up than what is normally ran, and two, my stress and being all worried is making me a lil stupid.
I have sprayed this set up many many times, untuned with a 36 pill... Which is a baby shot, and wasnt worried about hurting anything. 100 is a whole new ball game.
I think im going to take your advice and ditch the old zex box and go with something more common.
I also think that i am getting confused, because for one, i have a totally different set up than what is normally ran, and two, my stress and being all worried is making me a lil stupid.
I have sprayed this set up many many times, untuned with a 36 pill... Which is a baby shot, and wasnt worried about hurting anything. 100 is a whole new ball game.
I think im going to take your advice and ditch the old zex box and go with something more common.
And FYI: I sprayed over 10 bottles on my stock LS6 (stock timing as well) without an interface on the 100 shot with no issues.
Last edited by rpcase; 10-27-2012 at 09:36 AM.
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do u guys like this setup how hard is it to setup , also what r they worth , i can buy one atm cheap or i think its cheap lol. i have the hsw 90mm plate kit for my ls3 camaro. looks complicated to setup with all the lil things .
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Its easy to set up....the only wires you would have to hook up on yours would be the trigger wire in and out.....then plug the the box into the maf. My LS6 was the same way....took 10 min
#15
Would this work in a Delphi 85mm that has the IAT integrated with the maf?? I read in a thread "the IAT is no longer used or plugged in. The connector that once plugged into the IAT now plugs into the connector on that casper harness. This lets the IAT be read from the MAF instead of the IAT sensor".
Any help would be great
Any help would be great
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Would this work in a Delphi 85mm that has the IAT integrated with the maf?? I read in a thread "the IAT is no longer used or plugged in. The connector that once plugged into the IAT now plugs into the connector on that casper harness. This lets the IAT be read from the MAF instead of the IAT sensor".
Any help would be great
Any help would be great
#17
I read somewhere that if the car isn't tuned for the spray, the HSW interface will only pull 3 degrees of timing??? im only will be running a 75 pre-maf so it should be ok and i have a AEM wideband to ck up on the AFR's. So if i open the interface does it matter if i select 1 and 4, is it only going to pull 3 degrees regardless? or i have to select 1 and 2? i wanted to pull 5 in case i decide to do 100
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how can i tell if its tright i hooked mine up like the diagram shows , and the lights are on steady , and when i hit my wot micro switch the spray light comes on but the car idles funny i have the nitrous off and the fuel line off the plate so it sprays in a can. does anyone elses car do that?.
also should i hook my brown wire to the noid grounds or just ground it thur the 85 leg?
also should i hook my brown wire to the noid grounds or just ground it thur the 85 leg?
#20
can the brown wire be used as a 12v triggered output, if the blue one was used as the 12v in? i read ground out on the brown wire but dunno if it could be used as 12v out too?