why is my nitrous not activating?
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From: clementon, nj
why is my nitrous not activating? I used this diagram followed it exactly, only difference is I have a digital window swtich PN 8969. I wired it in by sending the white wire to tach signal on PCM pin #10, pulled power from my tcs switch, grounded it on one of the bolts under the center consol, and the yellow wire goes to my FPSS that goes to pin 85 on my relay.
I did check the noids they fire when I hot wire them on the battery so they work. I set my window switch for 1k just so I could push the wot switch with the hose in a cup to see if fuel comes out with it didnt.
Do I need to ground the window switch directly to the negative side of the battery?
I did check the noids they fire when I hot wire them on the battery so they work. I set my window switch for 1k just so I could push the wot switch with the hose in a cup to see if fuel comes out with it didnt.
Do I need to ground the window switch directly to the negative side of the battery?
Bypass the FPSS and connect the yellow wire with the wire going to pin 85 and try again. The FPSS might need to be adjusted or maybe its bad. Make sure you have a good ground if there is paint beneath it remove it or find a better ground. Not sure where you have your W/S at but you can use the ground studs behind either the driver or passenger side foot kick panels.
Just reread. Your power to the relay should be coming from the battery or the alternator. If you are using power from the TCS circuit you could be overloading it and you may have blow a fuse.
Just reread. Your power to the relay should be coming from the battery or the alternator. If you are using power from the TCS circuit you could be overloading it and you may have blow a fuse.
Last edited by DopeFedZ; Nov 9, 2012 at 01:38 PM.
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From: clementon, nj
just tried by passing the FPSS, still did not work. Im going to try and relocate my ground tomorrow. Do not feel like pulling out the center consol today. Other than that does anyone see and obvious issues with the wiring?
Both my purge and bottle heater work but theyre on separate circuits but they all pull power from the same source.
Both my purge and bottle heater work but theyre on separate circuits but they all pull power from the same source.
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If I were you would I would ground the wire coming from 85 to a good ground and arm your kit and push your activation switch and see if your noids click.
Since you already tried bypassing the FPSS by connecting the wire from 85 to the yellow from the switch and it still didn't work that should mean it's not the FPSS.
So bypass the W/S now by connecting 85 to a good ground. If your noids do click then your issue is either W/S or the way it's wired.
Since you already tried bypassing the FPSS by connecting the wire from 85 to the yellow from the switch and it still didn't work that should mean it's not the FPSS.
So bypass the W/S now by connecting 85 to a good ground. If your noids do click then your issue is either W/S or the way it's wired.
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From: clementon, nj
so my ground from my solenoids was bad. I regrounded it and still nothing I redid all the checks we went through earlier. I still have to try grounding pin 85 from the relay because I am not searching for it in the dash
Your wiring is either wrong. Your relay is no good, bad grounds or your power source is not good. Your WOT switch and W/S are getting power from whatever 12v supply you connectd to your arming switch. The 12v supply connectd to your master arming switch only sends a signal to activate your relay when you depress the WOT switch. This 12v supply is not what should be powering your relay to feed 12v to your solenoids.
You really need to run a wire from your battery positive, the stud on the fuse block in the engine bay, or from the stud on your alternator to pin 30 on the relay.
Your fpss is not suppose to have 12v going thru it. The fpss is grounding the circuit. If you werent running the fpss or W/S pin 85 would normally be grounded.
Your solenoids should be receiving power from pin 87. If you wired everything up exactly like the diagram you posted the armin switch gets 12v from whatever source you chose. When you flip the switch it sends 12v to the WOT switch when you depress the WOT switch the 12v will continue thru there and end up at pin 86 which will energize your relay. This will then allow the 12v connected to pin 30 from your battery, or alternator to travel thru pin 87 to your relays assuming your fpss and W/S are connected properly as they are grounding the relay.
You really need to run a wire from your battery positive, the stud on the fuse block in the engine bay, or from the stud on your alternator to pin 30 on the relay.
Your fpss is not suppose to have 12v going thru it. The fpss is grounding the circuit. If you werent running the fpss or W/S pin 85 would normally be grounded.
Your solenoids should be receiving power from pin 87. If you wired everything up exactly like the diagram you posted the armin switch gets 12v from whatever source you chose. When you flip the switch it sends 12v to the WOT switch when you depress the WOT switch the 12v will continue thru there and end up at pin 86 which will energize your relay. This will then allow the 12v connected to pin 30 from your battery, or alternator to travel thru pin 87 to your relays assuming your fpss and W/S are connected properly as they are grounding the relay.
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From: clementon, nj
Ended up being a bad relay. Just my luck that both of the ones I had would be bad. Picked one up from radio shack on my way to work and now everything works fine. Thanks for your help
