I plan on running a wet kit in my car. Im going to upgrade fuel pump and everything but i know nitrouse is dangerouse i seen someones car go up from it. My question is what all do i need to run it safely i know it can be done with the right gauges and switches. i will be getting it tuned. i want to run a window switch on it as well. there is other threads on this but this is something i want to be very specific and detailed about. Also what kits you recommend

 

Nitrous is not dangerous, stupid people is. The rules to avoid engine damage are few and simple:

1- Start small, don't go straight to a 300 shot. First use smaller jetting and go up from there.
2- Ensure fuel supply is up to the task (fuel pump, proper lines and filter etc.)
3- Use a colder plug, the more nitrous the colder the plug. A hot spark plug = detonation. Check them very often.
4- Retard the timing. The more nitrous the more timing retard
5- Any amount of nitrous must give an improvement in ET. If it doesn't don't go to a bigger shot, go back and check everything.

There are more things to check, but those are the basics

 

Nitrous puts a lot of strain on parts. It is good but only to use sparingly. Be careful and have fun

 

the funniest story i heard was a guy told me he'd never use nitrous again b/c IT messed up his motor. i asked how and he said b/c he put it on his 5.4 f150 crew cab and raced a stock ford lightning. he lost on a 100 shot so he swaps the pills and puts the biggest one he had (he said it was a 200 shot) and wins the first race but noticed a knocking sound afterwards. he runs the lightning a second time and the motor gives.....his bone stock 5.4 gave out after a second run like that....go figure

so of course it's the nitrous' fault his motor blew

i had a zex 75 shot wet kit on my 350z for almost 2 years and the only problem i had was a slight leak on one of the quick connects. with proper installation, monitoring, and safety devices installed (colder plugs, WOT and window switch are a must imo) you should be fine as long as the motor is healthy. i went ahead and also installed a wideband a/f gauge and a fuel pressure gauge just as monitors

 

That is the truth.

The people that blow up stock or street cars are the people that have no idea what is going on. That is why i am here. To help educate people that have never used nitrous. There are people that have never used nitrous and don't know about it.

You need to have a couple of bases covered. If you give me some idea of what you are running i can guide you into a safe and reliable setup in whatever price range you are looking. Something you dont want to do is skimp on things on a nitrous system. You are thinking in the right direction with the window switch. It will be one of you biggest safety feature.

Also, working your way up and not going big or go home is the best way for someone new to nitrous to spray.

There are some things that you have to make sure you have done before sprays. Nitrous and forced induction have the same bases to cover.

1. Making sure you have enough fuel
2. make sure you have the right NON-Projected tip spark plugs. BR not TR series spark plugs!
3. TUNE! make sure you have some timing pulled. To much timing is what usually kills a motor.
4. knowing the limit of the motor you have.
5. safety features! window switch, fuel pressure safety swtiches. Every little bit can help.
6. Window Switch - spray to low and to high in the rpm will cause problems. Window switches will eliminate this and is one of the biggest safety features.

Tell me some things about your car. What type of car? What mods do you have done to your car?

 

Lots of good info in here, OP. I dont think I have ever had a nitrous related failure. So far when I tear something up it is playing around with it on motor. LOL!!!!

 

that is not the news i wanted to hear! lol

i just changed plugs and plug wires when i put the LT's on and went with the TR6's b/c they're supposed to be a step colder than stock. I new it wouldn't help now since all I have are bolt on's, but I wanted to install those b/c I didn't want to have to change them again next year (which would only be about 5k miles) b/c of my setup. I didn't know if I wanted to swap the cam, s/c, or spray it and I'm leaning towards nitrous since I have a complete kit left over from my Z and all I would need is the fuel system adapters (if all my lines are long enough)

side note: Neal, what's your opinion on spraying above 1100-1200 psi? I've always hear between 900-1100psi is ideal. I know if you spray too low you don't get the full "hit" but I've heard if the pressure is too high it could lock up the solenoid. How true is that?

 

Haha sorry brother. New plugs are cheap but i know that they can be a hassle to change. TR are cooler but with the projected tip plugs you still run the risk of nipping of the strap. The BR with the non projected tip straps will have less of a chance to nip the strap off.

There is 2 things to consider when you spray nitrous at 1100-1200 psi.

1. Most solenoids are only rated to open 1100-1200 psi max. You might not even be able to get your solenoids to open at that pressure. Usually what will happen is that they will open at that pressure when they are cold but when they warm up the will not open.

2. At around 1100, nitrous goes into a phase change. It changes from a liquid state to a gaseous state. Liquid nitrous is what you want to have because it hits harder.

Also you will see more of a pressure drop running your nitrous at a high pressure.

If you have any other questions feel free to ask

 

Excellent thread my car is a ls1 with a torquer v3 cam and ls6 intake with ported polished 243 heads and bbk headers. I am gunna be at 450 horses prolly a little less but I wanna get past 500 so prolly a 50 shot and ill be happy maybe a 100 but that would be pushing it I believe

 

As long as you have fueling for a 100 shot you should be able to hit the car with it. I would recommend a racetronix fuel pump and hot wire. It would get you enough fuel for around 600-650 wheel hp. If you are apprehensive about nitrous, install the above or similar setup on the fuel pump. Start with a 50 hp shot then move to the 100. Remember change the plugs out, pull timing and make sure your tune is good. You should have nothing to worry about hitting the car with 100.

 

I'm going to mike Norris for my tune so I expect it to be excellent. I just want to know what individual parts I need for a wet setup. I don't need all the gadgets and gizmos but I do want to be safe about it.