I dynoed yesterday...I think the #'s are low for a 100 shot and after 4k, I have no clue what is causing this problem <img border="0" alt="[judgement]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" /> I dynoed 327/319 N/A...It is the 5177 kit with a single 100 shot jet...the bottle pressure was about 1100 psi...I heard it spray, and then it sprayed intermitantely thus causing the wavy line...click view normal size...
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...45840282EJoAhz

<small>[ August 04, 2002, 01:12 PM: Message edited by: kisles2000z28 ]</small>

 

Here is a couple ideas.Could be the Fuel pressure safety switch,if you have one.HPP3 power tune will affect the power like that.
From what I see on your graph,you are running too lean on the A/F,the bouncy graph would indicate detination.Pull your plugs and see if they are still in one piece.

 

there is no fpss...my A/F ratio is richer on nitrous as compared to 14.3 NA... I heard the nitrous go on initially, then on/off/on/off. Like pssssstttt...pst...pst...pst..pst I don't have a purge yet, so I can't rule out air in the lines...I am thinking selnoids could be fluttering...I sprayed today and it felt the best to date...nitrous flow felt constant...oh well

<small>[ August 04, 2002, 11:25 PM: Message edited by: kisles2000z28 ]</small>

 

how do you have the solenoid wired? window sw? through any relays? if you literally heard the noid chattering, then that narrows it down a lot. relay chatter due to feedback from something or a bad connection or crimp somewhere. go through all your wiring and pull on all crimped connections. if you're using a cheesy 12v relay, go buy a good 20-30 amp anti-flyback auto relay at Napa. it really sounds like you have bad electrical connection. weak power (from high resistance due to bad connection) not keeping the noid open and keeps fighting the nitrous pressure. you will get an oscillation just like this. Or, it could be a bad noid. let us know what you end up finding!!

 

TTT

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by kisles2000z28:
<strong>there is no fpss...my A/F ratio is richer on nitrous as compared to 14.3 NA... I heard the nitrous go on initially, then on/off/on/off. Like pssssstttt...pst...pst...pst..pst I don't have a purge yet, so I can't rule out air in the lines...I am thinking selnoids could be fluttering...I sprayed today and it felt the best to date...nitrous flow felt constant...oh well</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">NA was 14.3-1 <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> A/F on the spray should be no more than 12.5-1,NA is ussauly no more than 13-1.
If you heard the noid chatter then I would double check the wiring.Make sure if you are running a window switch that the switch controls the relay ground,not the noid ground.

 

If you're running the HPP3 power tuning take it out - advanced timing an N2O is not a good thing. Your AFR is much too lean. If you don't have ATAP or some other monitoring tool find someone that does and log some runs to see what's not right. Your car should love N2O with the hotcam,

 

The HPP3 was out when I dynoed 'cause I sold it a week prior to dynoing

 

I will try gooking up the window switch to the relay ground and see if that helps...

 

If you where pulling ground from anything like the window switch or solenoid that would cause the problem. If you pulled the ground for the solenoid from the window switch the window switch heats up and opens the connection until the part cools down. This would cause the system to go on and off thus causing the peaks and valleys in the Dyno.

 

Which wire will I have to hook the yellow wire of the window switch to on the relay?

 

Sometimes, you will see wheelspin on the rollers as well. there is more to it than that, but I have seen spray graphs like that before.