how much is too much n2o
i have bee contimplating about after getting my turbo dialed in about adding a shot, starting off small like a dry 30-50 shot then maybe going to a big wet 100 shot. If thats possible.

im curious how far can i go, do you guys get knock from spraying to much? is it from going lean? Knock from my turbo is usally cause by to much heat, provided theres enough fuel. Now since nitrous cools the intake charge will i have to worry about this.

With all this power of the turbo and nitrous am i going to have to worry about the cylider pressure blowing my heads off. Have any of you guys expericed this phoeminum with out getting detonation. If i get this dialed in right with out any know, will my heads lift with all this power.

I have a built engine with arp studs and cometic boost gaskets (the best i can find).

 

I'm thinking you better look closely into shooting nitrous with a turbo. The HP goes up greatly whit a turbo or a blower. I'm by no means and expert but all I ever heard of someone shooting with a turbo was about a 30 HP shot to get it going through the turbo lag.

 

There are some GN guys running 100-150 shots on there 3.8's.
and horespowerstore.com has a procharged transam runing a 100 shot..
and these guys arnt running low boost either.
i just want to know what causes your engine to go, in theory.
if you guys detonate, like us FI guys, or if you just go lean.

id most like start out with a small shot, and if this isnt good enough try somthing bigger.
that way i can get into the nine second teritory, someday.

<small>[ August 12, 2002, 02:08 PM: Message edited by: SmokinHawk ]</small>

 

Whats your current HP level? Fuel system upgraded? Are you on a stock bottom end?

The #1 cause of engine damage is detonation. If you can absolutely control that, you can run nitrous. The cool temps of nitrous will help fight detonation since it cools the intake temps somewhat. beyond that you will have to be very careful and will need the equipment required to control timing such as Ramchargers timing box. Then look into running some race gas if needed....which is probably good idea when running both nitrous and turbo.
What kind of PCM program do you have currently?

 

usually for removing turbo lag...
my .02

 

i have a built engine (will have once its done). i hope to make around 500rwhp on the turbo. i have 42 svo's, walbro 340 intank, booster pump, custom ls1edit program. prob go bigger set up when needed.
im not concerned with lag, hasnt been a problem.

When you guys are taking detonation do you mean pre-ignition due to hot air or inadiquate octane, I didnt know nitrous guys were effected by that since n20 cools the intake charge, or do you still suffer from that?

I plan to use higher octane when trying this and getting rid of detonation (to the best i can).

do you guys suffer from to much cylinder pressure on big shots?

i need to make over 700rwhp, thats why im concidering a second power adder.

<small>[ August 13, 2002, 06:12 AM: Message edited by: SmokinHawk ]</small>

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> When you guys are taking detonation do you mean pre-ignition due to hot air or inadiquate octane, I didnt know nitrous guys were effected by that since n20 cools the intake charge, or do you still suffer from that?

</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">First you are right about detonation/preignition. They are two seperate things but we always seem to throw these terms around as interchangeable. So lets get a working definition.

Detonation: a condition of severe overpressure in the combustion cylinder caused by the normal flame front (ignited by the spark plug) colliding with an abnormal flame front (ignited by a hot spot in the combustion chamber). A red hot exhaust valve might cause this or a glowing carbon deposit.

Pre-ignition: a condition of severe overpressure in the combustion chamber caused by instability of the fuel/air charge. Instability means that the pressure and temperature of the fuel/air has exceeded the point of self-ignition. Thus the term pre-ignition, no spark from the plug and the fuel/air charge is burning.

Yes, Pre-ignition due to timing too far advanced/retarded, inadequate octane, and intake temps is what I was refering too . The extremely low temps of the nitrous intake charge help to fight Pre-ignition/ detonation but it will never eliminate it from being a possibility. Youll always have to use correct timing, higher octane fuel along with attempts to control intake temps on any engine combo to get max HP without pre-ignition. Severe pre-ignition/detonation with a very dense fuel/air charge can expend all the energy contained in the A/F charge in a very short period of time. This causes extreme temps and pressures in the combustion chamber that can devastate pistons and rods bearings, crack ring lands, etc.

You will have to keep that under control in order to achieve those high HP #s without destroying the motor.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">do you guys suffer from to much cylinder pressure on big shots?

</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well...under detonation or pre-ignition cylinder pressure can probably double or triple intended cylinder pressures. That goes for any engine..but you can see that a forced induction nitrous fed high HP motor can quickly exceed design parameters of engine components (pistons, rods, bearings) as compared to a 300 hp NA motor if detonation or pre-ignition occurs.

If correctly tuning a 300 hp NA LS1 motor is like walking a foot wide plank thats a foot off the ground. Doing what your attempting will be like walking a 3/16 cable 500 ft in the air. Especially if your talking stock cubes. You will need as much control over whats happening as possible and will have to ramp up a little at a time while checking parameters. If you just get a generic PCM program, slap all this together and then let it rip...it wont last long. The intake temps will really be a small variable( unless you also add an intercooler)..youll have the best succes from using the correct race gas and use of some precise timing control. Maybe the new Ramchargers timing controller will do the trick.

One last thing..all this is only what I am understanding so far. If anyone has better info or sees incorrect info here please feel free to elaborate...I am still learning all this stuff.

 

I dont plan jumping into this with out the right equipment, i dont even plan jumping at all, but going to take it slow little at a time, making sure the sysem works out.
Tunning is very important, i wil probably tune for each occasion.

Now im wondering if i should start out wet or dry. i like the new NOSle kit, but any one know if you can run a 50 shot or smaller in it.