with a FRED nitrous controller, do you need a window switch anymore??? also, has anyone used this part on their setup? i was curious how to set it up for a m6 car on a 200 shot as not to shock the tires off the line.

 

I have an A4 and I do use a MSD window switch so I am not absolutely sure ! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Embarrassed]" src="gr_emb.gif" />

As far as setting up DELAY time, BUILD UP time, and HP POWER % setting !

These are what I use !

I cut a 1.94 short time so I set DELAY @ 2.0 seconds !

BUILD UP time is set @ 1.0 seconds !

HP POWER % setting is set @ START 30% END 100% !

I hope this helps, <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> but feel free to experiment as traction permits !

If U cut a better short time I would start with a quicker inital delay !

Also if U have traction try a higher STARTING HP POWER % !

Good luck and have fun ! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

<small>[ April 14, 2003, 02:41 AM: Message edited by: Orange Krush ]</small>

 

i want to hit it with a 200 shot, but i know that will blow the tires away on launch. i was thinking trying a 40 percent at launch and ramp it up to full after about 2 seconds. my best 60 was a 1.59 on a set of 27 inch qtp's, but i also have a set of 26x10.5x16's on my stock ta wheels that i like to run on the street so it looks stelth, and those tires wont even take a 100 shot without spinning. maybe some 10's will come my way after i get my new motor/heads/cam installed!

 

Hey Brian if U can pull a consistent 1.6 short time then I would set DELAY @ 1.7 saeconds !

When I say DELAY this means the N20 solenoids will not get power from F.R.E.D. till 1.7 seconds after U hit WOT !

Then if U have the traction U say U will, set HP POWER % @ START 40% END 100% !

As far as the ramp up time goes the longer U stretch it out the slower your ET will be ! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

When I use my 150 jets I have ramp up time set @ 1.0 to .9 ! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

the fred does not have a tach driver input, so you do need a window switch for overrev protection.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by slow:
<strong>the fred does not have a tach driver input, so you do need a window switch for overrev protection.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">thanks...thats what i wanted to hear. with all this wireing, my car is gonna look like a mad science project!

 

i understand that, use lots of split loom, and you should be ok.

I like to use the weaterpack connectors to make installs easy, and profesional looking.

Ryan.

 

I wouldnt set FRED to come on after your best 60ft. if you 60ft 1.6 say have it come on at like half way thru so you get some more 60ft boost. you will see your ET drop. Personally i would run it right off the line as much % as you can to get traction. it will always be faster <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Matt98SS:
<strong>I wouldnt set FRED to come on after your best 60ft. if you 60ft 1.6 say have it come on at like half way thru so you get some more 60ft boost. you will see your ET drop. Personally i would run it right off the line as much % as you can to get traction. it will always be faster <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">at the track thats probably what i will do, but on the street, i am pretty sure it wont hold too much power right off the line.