What would be your choice and why!!! Be clear on your info and list the positives and negatives about both system's

Thanks <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

i have heard of a TNT F1 kit but what is a F2? is that just a dual stage?

 

F2 is the big dog kit, with jetting from 175-250 i think. basically where the F1 kit left off. Honestly, i would go with the direct port if you have the money. why? because of an even distribution to each cylinder instead of flowing it all through the throttle body opening.

Chris

 

Tha main advantages are:

-Don't have to worry about gas pooling in the intake plenum (backfires)
-Precise amount of N2O/Fuel introduced to each cylinder instead of hoping the correct mix gets to each cylinder by blowing it all in through the TB opening (safer)
-Can make more power, because the setup is safer. Figure you can run more N2O because you don't have to worry about the above issues.

 

But if you are the "do-it-yourself" type of person and you already have a manifold, about $1000 from Nitrous Express and a little time = much fun and happiness <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Todd

 

So its actually better for distribution and safety reasons and you will see a bit more hp over the F2 kit and it will not put the crank in a bind when hitting 300 hp shot which is what the TNT Direct port's lowest setting...correct? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

Another Question: How would you set this up when hitting a 300 shot Direct port without blowing up your tires as 300hp instantly is alot of hp's...Is there alot of options in setting this up to have the right amount of traction??? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

<small>[ September 10, 2002, 03:30 PM: Message edited by: BADZ ]</small>

 

id get the NX DP and a FRED or whatever they call a progressive controller. NOS and TNT carry controllers as well. basically you set a % initial (like 10% of 300, so you'd spray a 30 shot right way) and the amount of time to ramp up to 100% (so keeping the example, the next 270hp of N2O would show up during say a 6 second time frame). easier on the motor as well.

Ryan

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by BADZ:
<strong>Another Question: How would you set this up when hitting a 300 shot Direct port without blowing up your tires as 300hp instantly is alot of hp's.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Running a full slick <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> I am running a 300hp shot on a built 383 and with Streets I would just spin the hell out of them for the first 60' <img border="0" title="" alt="[Embarrassed]" src="gr_emb.gif" /> Using a full Hoosier slick heated up nicely, I am able to hook pretty darn good. With a 200hp shot, I am able to hook the Streets out of the hole.

You could also use a progressive controller to limit the amount of nitrous out of the hole and then increase to the full hp shot later on.

 

What about your noids? Does the controller over work them causing them to hang up or just trash them?? What would you do in order for them to last under this progressive controller??????? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by BADZ:
<strong>What would you do in order for them to last under this progressive controller??????? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Replace or rebuild them when needed <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> That is the reason that I am not using a controller. I do not want to rebuild/replace them each season( May-Sep ).

 

I guess you can say it may be better to replace the noids then replace your entire shortblock but how often do they go out when using this controller and has anyone had trouble with them? Actual situations would be nice to here!!!!

Anyone? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

 

There are many, many advantages to the DP over the F2 kit. The big disadvantage with the DP over the F2, price. I paid a little over $5800 for my TNT Fogger; new LS6 Intake, nozzles, distrubation blocks, custom ARE Intake plumbing, custom nitrous and fuel lines, bottles, heaters, TPS, various switch and relays, MagnaFlow secondary fuel system, and labor <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

Overall, I have very happy with it.

<small>[ September 10, 2002, 12:20 PM: Message edited by: ls1290 ]</small>

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by BADZ:
<strong>... but how often do they go out when using this controller ...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Tony from TNT recommended that with my schedule of racing, 7 to 8 times a month for 5 months, and using a controller with 300hp jets, 50% out of the hole, increasing 15% every second afterward, that the solenoids be rebuild/replaced once a season.