My NitrousXpress install so far
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
OH MY GOD! I will never figure out how to wire all this to run together....
I gotta find the TPS wire on the ECU...where the hell is that? how can I test to know if its the correct wire?
I dont even know where to begin, do i start and wire the nitrous system first and then tie everything else into that....do i start with the TPS activation and then start? Im really confused on this one. ..LOL!
is this how most have thiers mounted? I was gonna try and mount inside but this just seemed easier.
I gotta find the TPS wire on the ECU...where the hell is that? how can I test to know if its the correct wire?
I dont even know where to begin, do i start and wire the nitrous system first and then tie everything else into that....do i start with the TPS activation and then start? Im really confused on this one. ..LOL!
is this how most have thiers mounted? I was gonna try and mount inside but this just seemed easier.
Last edited by stroked383HSR; Apr 20, 2013 at 10:42 PM.
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
Nope.....I haven't gotten any help...I really don't know where to start ....and I need to know what the exact tps wire is ...color and all
I'm pretty sure a lot of the wires won't be used but Damn there's a lot
I'm pretty sure a lot of the wires won't be used but Damn there's a lot
Last edited by stroked383HSR; Apr 22, 2013 at 02:09 PM.
Hope that helps dude!
IIRC it is the bottom one. Trust me brother...I know the pain that you're going through on this one lol 
And yes most of those wires you will never use if you are just using the LNC to pull timing. That's all I used it for
And yes most of those wires you will never use if you are just using the LNC to pull timing. That's all I used it for LS1 Tech Stories
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
this is the diagram I followed.
it is a schematic that Brandon for Nitrous Outlet sent me. (hope its ok I post Brandon)
you da man! thanks brother! this should help alot of us out! that are running the same parts.
I did have to tie in the FPSS....I just ran one wire to white 85 on the relay (cause that is they way its wired on NX website) and the other to ground? ***actually the ground wire for the FFSS and the PURGE were both wired with the grounds for each NO and fuel solenoid but on this diagram the solenoid grounds go to the blues on the ZEX box. I didnt know if the purge and FPSS grounds should wire to the ZEX box too? should they be? or doesnt matter?***
I also had to tie in the Purge valve. 1 wire to acc on my arming switch and the other wire to ground?
Im hoping that is right.
it is a schematic that Brandon for Nitrous Outlet sent me. (hope its ok I post Brandon)
you da man! thanks brother! this should help alot of us out! that are running the same parts.
I did have to tie in the FPSS....I just ran one wire to white 85 on the relay (cause that is they way its wired on NX website) and the other to ground? ***actually the ground wire for the FFSS and the PURGE were both wired with the grounds for each NO and fuel solenoid but on this diagram the solenoid grounds go to the blues on the ZEX box. I didnt know if the purge and FPSS grounds should wire to the ZEX box too? should they be? or doesnt matter?***
I also had to tie in the Purge valve. 1 wire to acc on my arming switch and the other wire to ground?
Im hoping that is right.
Last edited by stroked383HSR; May 1, 2013 at 09:57 PM.
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
diagram updated.
I have not thrown power to anything yet...but
what should i set my Window switch? Idk
I have not thrown power to anything yet...but
what should i set my Window switch? Idk
Last edited by stroked383HSR; May 1, 2013 at 08:05 PM.
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
ok well im wired together. hope its right. I went by the diagram up top.
there was only 3 wires used for the LNC-2000 orange, yellow and green.
I still need to cover the wires up.
I have not thrown power to nothing yet. i will be pissed if the whole car shorts out..LMAO!
there was only 3 wires used for the LNC-2000 orange, yellow and green.
I still need to cover the wires up.
I have not thrown power to nothing yet. i will be pissed if the whole car shorts out..LMAO!
Last edited by stroked383HSR; May 3, 2013 at 11:22 AM.
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
status report:
The MSD box will not show rpm digital output signal on the display as it should. The white wire on the MSD I have going to my coil wire and set to 1 like i was told by MSD.
The diagram shows Tach signal but should say coil signal.
I was told by MSD to locate the coil packs and look at the connection and it should go to the wire that is the same on both packs. (pink wire) Well i found a wire thats is the same on both but still nothing. SO I MUST HAVE IT CONNECTED TO THE WRONG WIRE. ANYONE KNOW WHAT WIRE IS THE SIGNAL WIRE ON THE COIL PACKS?
I do not hear/feel either the fuel or nitrous solenoid clicking on/off (maybe cause the MSD box is not showing RPM data)
The relay Im using is the one that came with the NX kit. So the colors might not be the same but the location on the relay should be.
My FPSS is also going to #85 (white wire) like it says on NX instructions and of course ground to ground.
Arming switch works cause it turn everything on that is activated by it. My bottle opener works, heater works, and the purge solenoid works cause i can hear it click on/off, MSD box powers up, ZEX box powers up and the Lingenfelter box powers up.
I am also using a Lingenfelter Timing retard box call the LNC-2000 and was told by them that i only need to use 3 wires, green to ground, orange to TPS sensor (which is my white wire off the ZEX box) and the yellow wire to my arming switch
but it is getting power from my coil packs and pulling time when connected even though I have ever other wire from the LNC-2000 DISCONNECTED
I do not have fuel or nitrous LIVE in the hose as the bottle is empty and the schrader valve has not been removed yet.
any help would be great!
The MSD box will not show rpm digital output signal on the display as it should. The white wire on the MSD I have going to my coil wire and set to 1 like i was told by MSD.
The diagram shows Tach signal but should say coil signal.
I was told by MSD to locate the coil packs and look at the connection and it should go to the wire that is the same on both packs. (pink wire) Well i found a wire thats is the same on both but still nothing. SO I MUST HAVE IT CONNECTED TO THE WRONG WIRE. ANYONE KNOW WHAT WIRE IS THE SIGNAL WIRE ON THE COIL PACKS?
I do not hear/feel either the fuel or nitrous solenoid clicking on/off (maybe cause the MSD box is not showing RPM data)
The relay Im using is the one that came with the NX kit. So the colors might not be the same but the location on the relay should be.
My FPSS is also going to #85 (white wire) like it says on NX instructions and of course ground to ground.
Arming switch works cause it turn everything on that is activated by it. My bottle opener works, heater works, and the purge solenoid works cause i can hear it click on/off, MSD box powers up, ZEX box powers up and the Lingenfelter box powers up.
I am also using a Lingenfelter Timing retard box call the LNC-2000 and was told by them that i only need to use 3 wires, green to ground, orange to TPS sensor (which is my white wire off the ZEX box) and the yellow wire to my arming switch
but it is getting power from my coil packs and pulling time when connected even though I have ever other wire from the LNC-2000 DISCONNECTED
I do not have fuel or nitrous LIVE in the hose as the bottle is empty and the schrader valve has not been removed yet.
any help would be great!
Last edited by stroked383HSR; May 6, 2013 at 07:28 PM.
How are you testing the kit? With the engine off or are you revving it up to X Rpm to get the solenoids to fire?
If you have the kit wired through the MSD switch but the switch isn't reading correctly, it most likely won't let the noids open.
I'm thinkin the problem is with the MSD switch.
I'm a big fan of checking each link after installation of each item to see if there are any problems along the way. It basically forces you to only have one problem at a time. Just some info for your next install
Anybody else concerned at how long the fuel line is compared to the nitrous line?
If you have the kit wired through the MSD switch but the switch isn't reading correctly, it most likely won't let the noids open.
I'm thinkin the problem is with the MSD switch.
I'm a big fan of checking each link after installation of each item to see if there are any problems along the way. It basically forces you to only have one problem at a time. Just some info for your next install
Anybody else concerned at how long the fuel line is compared to the nitrous line?
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
How are you testing the kit? With the engine off or are you revving it up to X Rpm to get the solenoids to fire?
If you have the kit wired through the MSD switch but the switch isn't reading correctly, it most likely won't let the noids open.
I'm thinkin the problem is with the MSD switch.
I'm a big fan of checking each link after installation of each item to see if there are any problems along the way. It basically forces you to only have one problem at a time. Just some info for your next install
Anybody else concerned at how long the fuel line is compared to the nitrous line?
If you have the kit wired through the MSD switch but the switch isn't reading correctly, it most likely won't let the noids open.
I'm thinkin the problem is with the MSD switch.
I'm a big fan of checking each link after installation of each item to see if there are any problems along the way. It basically forces you to only have one problem at a time. Just some info for your next install
Anybody else concerned at how long the fuel line is compared to the nitrous line?
I understand totally what your saying and i should have done it that way. It all worked when hooked up to my SBC....but wiring for the LS series is different and different components. LNC-2000 vs MSD Digital 6 , WOT switch
vs TPS activation, 2 coil packs vs 1/distributor.
and yes I was curious about the fuel line but it should be fine, right? pressure is pressure...shouldnt be any different cause the line is shorter? just a harder fuel hit to the solenoid but shouldnt damage the seals? or
Im still learning and you guys have been a big help.
The LNC-002 shouldn't play a part in the kit coming on.
The fuel line coming from the solenoid needs to be shorter than the nitrous line coming from the solenoid to the nozzle. 58psi fuel pressure vs 950Psi nitrous pressure. If the fuel line is longer then you're gonna have a lean spike. I'm not 100% that this will be the case with your lines. Might wanna wait and see what nitrous outlet or some of the big dogs have to say. Just a thought.
What is the first component stopping 12v from reaching the solenoid. Power should come from the arming switch originally and stop at something. What is it stopping at?
The fuel line coming from the solenoid needs to be shorter than the nitrous line coming from the solenoid to the nozzle. 58psi fuel pressure vs 950Psi nitrous pressure. If the fuel line is longer then you're gonna have a lean spike. I'm not 100% that this will be the case with your lines. Might wanna wait and see what nitrous outlet or some of the big dogs have to say. Just a thought.
What is the first component stopping 12v from reaching the solenoid. Power should come from the arming switch originally and stop at something. What is it stopping at?
OP, you are correct in that the solenoids shouldn't fire until the window switch is activated in the RPM settings that you have it set for. My MSD box came all wired up and sits in the glove box, so I can't tell you exactly how it was all done
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
ahh! I see what you talking about now...with the lines going to the nozzle from each solenoid. idk.
Im wired just like the diagram above. So its gotta be the Window Switch not allowing the noids to come on. TPS works fine or atleast im able to set it thru moving the TB lever.
I get power to everything its just that i dont know which coil wire to use on the packs which is keeping the MSD from activating and allowing the noids to come on via the RELAY? i think?
Ive got another thread asking which wire to use on one of the coil packs.
Lingenfelter box is a different story...LOL Brandon from Nitrous Outlet knows whats going on and is suppose to get in touch with Lingenfelter for me and see whats going on.
Im wired just like the diagram above. So its gotta be the Window Switch not allowing the noids to come on. TPS works fine or atleast im able to set it thru moving the TB lever.
I get power to everything its just that i dont know which coil wire to use on the packs which is keeping the MSD from activating and allowing the noids to come on via the RELAY? i think?
Ive got another thread asking which wire to use on one of the coil packs.
Lingenfelter box is a different story...LOL Brandon from Nitrous Outlet knows whats going on and is suppose to get in touch with Lingenfelter for me and see whats going on.