My NitrousXpress install so far
So you do not have the LNC box hooked up at all yet? I can go look at my car here in a bit, and let you know how I did mine. I see that you don't have LNC wiring harness plugged into the pack connectors in your pics. You do realize that is necessary right?
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
lol....yeah i know they were not hooked up in the picture. Thats what causes the problem.
I was told by lingenfelter and actually it says right on the box. Green to ground, yellow to activation (arming switch) and orange to TPS sensor wire. The gray wire will not be used cause im not data logging. Connect the coil packs.
Once everything is connected and the LNC is left at zero (not set to retard or anything)
the power light is on, the green (activation light) is flickering and this is all with the ARMING SWITCH OFF and car OFF I can move the TB lever and watch the green light flicker more which means it is retarding timing.
I can then disconnect the arming switch wire, the ground wire everything that i think gives power to the box and it still on. NOT until I disconnect the coil pack connectors does it turn off.
I had everything off except left the coil packs connected and drove the car...and it back fired like crazy when i went 3/4 throttle. and it just so happen to be when there was a pewter TA behind me that had been looking for me.....I had to pull off...LOL!
I hope Im making sense
I was told by lingenfelter and actually it says right on the box. Green to ground, yellow to activation (arming switch) and orange to TPS sensor wire. The gray wire will not be used cause im not data logging. Connect the coil packs.
Once everything is connected and the LNC is left at zero (not set to retard or anything)
the power light is on, the green (activation light) is flickering and this is all with the ARMING SWITCH OFF and car OFF I can move the TB lever and watch the green light flicker more which means it is retarding timing.
I can then disconnect the arming switch wire, the ground wire everything that i think gives power to the box and it still on. NOT until I disconnect the coil pack connectors does it turn off.
I had everything off except left the coil packs connected and drove the car...and it back fired like crazy when i went 3/4 throttle. and it just so happen to be when there was a pewter TA behind me that had been looking for me.....I had to pull off...LOL!
I hope Im making sense
i hope you get this all figured out since im biying the lnc2000 as well for timing and the 2 step. are you using diodes with the lnc2000? they are needed or the system goes haywire
Staging Lane
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FormerVendor
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From: Indiana
lol....yeah i know they were not hooked up in the picture. Thats what causes the problem.
I was told by lingenfelter and actually it says right on the box. Green to ground, yellow to activation (arming switch) and orange to TPS sensor wire. The gray wire will not be used cause im not data logging. Connect the coil packs.
Once everything is connected and the LNC is left at zero (not set to retard or anything)
the power light is on, the green (activation light) is flickering and this is all with the ARMING SWITCH OFF and car OFF I can move the TB lever and watch the green light flicker more which means it is retarding timing.
I can then disconnect the arming switch wire, the ground wire everything that i think gives power to the box and it still on. NOT until I disconnect the coil pack connectors does it turn off.
I had everything off except left the coil packs connected and drove the car...and it back fired like crazy when i went 3/4 throttle. and it just so happen to be when there was a pewter TA behind me that had been looking for me.....I had to pull off...LOL!
I hope Im making sense
I was told by lingenfelter and actually it says right on the box. Green to ground, yellow to activation (arming switch) and orange to TPS sensor wire. The gray wire will not be used cause im not data logging. Connect the coil packs.
Once everything is connected and the LNC is left at zero (not set to retard or anything)
the power light is on, the green (activation light) is flickering and this is all with the ARMING SWITCH OFF and car OFF I can move the TB lever and watch the green light flicker more which means it is retarding timing.
I can then disconnect the arming switch wire, the ground wire everything that i think gives power to the box and it still on. NOT until I disconnect the coil pack connectors does it turn off.
I had everything off except left the coil packs connected and drove the car...and it back fired like crazy when i went 3/4 throttle. and it just so happen to be when there was a pewter TA behind me that had been looking for me.....I had to pull off...LOL!
I hope Im making sense
The LNC gets its power and ground source from the coil packs. The yellow, green, and orange wires on the box are used for activation sources only.
Please let me know if you have any further questions.
Ryan
The MSD box will not activate if you have it set to zero and the motor is not running but the key is in the on position. Disconnect the your wires at the solenoids and hook them to a test light. Set the MSD box for on at 1500 off at 6000. Start the car and where you can see the test light floor it quickly and the test light should come on. However you should see an RPM reading on the MSD box. Mine is wired in to a white wire right at the computer plug. My MSD box is set to 4 cyl and shows an idle of 8-9. I have also used that zex wot switch in the past and it would lose it's programming. Just some things to check.
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
well everything seems to be wired correctly now. I still dont know if the solenoids are activating when they should be. They should be ok cause if everything else is working right....the MSD box, the ZEX box and the LNC box then the solenoid dont have a choice but to come on.
the ground wires are connected to the blues on the ZEX box and the other wires are connected to the green wire on the relay.
Ive been informed that I should change the nitrous line coming from the solenoid to make it longer and the same length as the fuel line so i dont run into a lean condition when it is activated.
the ground wires are connected to the blues on the ZEX box and the other wires are connected to the green wire on the relay.
Ive been informed that I should change the nitrous line coming from the solenoid to make it longer and the same length as the fuel line so i dont run into a lean condition when it is activated.
I simply took mine out on the road to make sure eveything was working the way it should. Just for extra insurance I set it to retard 8 degrees of timing though. And sure as s**t at 3200 rpm it hit pretty damn hard lol 
I only stayed in for maybe two seconds...didn't want to blow anything up lol
I only stayed in for maybe two seconds...didn't want to blow anything up lol Thread Starter
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
I simply took mine out on the road to make sure eveything was working the way it should. Just for extra insurance I set it to retard 8 degrees of timing though. And sure as s**t at 3200 rpm it hit pretty damn hard lol I only stayed in for maybe two seconds...didn't want to blow anything up lol
I only stayed in for maybe two seconds...didn't want to blow anything up lolLOL!!! I hear ya...looks like thats what im going to have to do with just maybe a 50 shot just to see since i need to replace my fuel pump before going any higher.
Im going to get my bottle loaded friday.
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
LOL..yah man. good cause i got $40 bucks there to spend....ha!
umm? what are the BR7's NGK? is that what i ask for? I know stupid questions but these AZ people here aint playing with a full deck. LOL!
umm? what are the BR7's NGK? is that what i ask for? I know stupid questions but these AZ people here aint playing with a full deck. LOL!
Yes there are NGK plugs..NGK BR7EF to be exact. They were just over $20 for me 
