AustinTAtious

I have a 2001 TA w/ full bolt-ons, full exhaust, stage II ARE heads, and a 224/230 .538/.538 114 cam. (Modlist here: link)

I'm considering a purchase of an NX Wet Kit, genx-2 upgrade kit (bottle warmer, pressure gauge, fuel pressure safety switch, blow down fitting and tube, and purge valve), window switch w/ 3k and 6k pill sets, remote bottle opener, switch panel that goes where the TCS switch is, new plugs, and maybe a couple other things I can't remember right now.

Is there anything I should know about spraying on top of the heads and cam I have? I'm putting down 411 hp right now completely untuned, and still revlimited at 6200 (which should be 6800 now), running extremely rich (11:1 at WOT). I expect to be putting down 425 HP NA and would like to run a 100, or possible a 150 shot.

I'm going to order a new clutch tomorrow. I was debating between the single disk McLeod clutch and the twin disk, but think I've decided on the twin disk setup. Any comments here?

Any general advice/information is more than welcome. Specifically, I'm running a Granatelli MAF, and I'm wondering if that's ok..I've read a couple places where people have said to ONLY use the stock MAF. Does it matter w/a wet kit?

Thanks for your time and advice,

Jonny (Pictures)

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

I say ditch the GMAF and go back to the stock MA.
You should be fine running a NX 100 shot.A fuel pump would be a good idea for safety.
For extra insurance you could pull timing on the juice with either a Timing tuner or a 1000 ohm resister that takes the place of the Air temp sender (wired on relay)That will pull 2 degrees of timing out.

14u2nv

I would also upgrade the rear-end if you haven't already. You will need the fuel pump, TR-6 plugs, and get autotap.

AustinTAtious

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 14u2nv:
<strong>I would also upgrade the rear-end if you haven't already. You will need the fuel pump, TR-6 plugs, and get autotap.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I'm getting the TR-6 plugs, and I already have autotap. I don't want to spend $3000 on a 12 bolt right now, so I'm not sure what other upgrading I can do. (If I break the rear end, then I'll have no choice, but that's easier to convince the wife of.)

I thought the fuel pump was only needed if I wanted to spray bigger than a 150 shot... or is it actually HP related, and not the size of the nitrous shot?

warbird#2

a guy i know has that twin disk clutch u want. so far on a H/C LT1 car he has broke moser 33spline axles,driveshaft, & probably a couple other things. every couple weeks he breaks something. a guy in out local car club that knows his **** says that clutch is only good for breaking things. i would go with a spec stage 4 or a cartek. u will break your rearend with the juice, u are pushing it now on the H/C if u have an M6.

beardWS6

iTrader: (1)

I have a 2001 WS6 with H/C and 100 wet shot with 12-bolt 3.73! The stock fuel pump and injectors will work good up to about 400-425rwhp. After that you really are taking a chance. I got a T-rex fuel pump and 30lb injectors. I run 23-24 degrees when spraying, window switch with 3200-6000 pills and a WOT switch. You will break your rear-end on spray! I have a remote bottle opener, auto-heater, TNT 3switch panel, NOS psi and fuel psi on my pillar. They are sweet! I also have LS1 edit done! My A4 with Vig 3200, and 12-bolt pushed 520rwhp and 521rwtq with conveter locked. First day out I toasted my 3-4 gear spraying. The tranny had 12000 granny miles on her. Thats what spray will do! Hope this helps! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

EVIL

stock fuel pump has to go. walbro 340 hits the wall at 500rwhp unless you have a enhancer on it. if you make 411 now, and your cam is very simalar to mine, you will net 120-130 on a nx 100 shot, so already over the 500rwhp. the mcleod single is what i am running with no issues. the 10 bolt will snap like a twig on a m6 h/c/n2o car. you will be making over 600 ft lbs of tq, theres no way to make the 10 bolt last on that kind of power unless you spray it in 2nd gear up and flat foot your shifts. the mcleod clutch hits hard on the shifts, so if you have any kind of tire, it will be rolling the dice on the juice.

i am fighting the fuel pump issue now, and my car only made 380 at the wheels with heads and cam on a low compression bottom end with a 100 tnt shot.

if your gonna spray it, be ready to break parts.
good luck with it, its fun when you get it all working!

Ron@Vengeance

iTrader: (51)

I see a trend going on here. Everyone thats saying you WILL break your rear has a 12 bolt. I have been on my stock 10 bolt (3:73s) for over a year without a problem. I run Nitto 315 Drags on the street and ET streets at the track. Ive got a gazillion street passes and over 100 track passes leaving at around 3500 on a TNT 100 shot. See sig for dyno #s. Hell even if it does happen to snap, you could build 5 10 bolts for the price of one 12 bolt.

I do agree with them about the fuel pump. I tried the TNT 75 on the dyno with the stock fuel pump and my fuel pressure dropped to about 40 psi when the kit hit. I bought an ARE modified Walbro 340 intank and its been perfect ever since. Some TR6s or AC Delco FR1LS are also in your future. Good luck and happy hosing <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

AustinTAtious

I'd already planned to get a Walboro fuel pump, but I went ahead and had the shop doing the install send my tank to ARE to have dual Walboro fuel pumps installed. Hopefully that will take care of the fuel pump issue.

The only weak points left (I think) are my rear end and drive shaft. But I think I'll take my chances =) Maybe injectors? How would I know if they're causing a problem?

Jonny