N2O line routing? Inside or outside?
#1
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I'm mounting my nitrous bottle in my spare tire area, is it better to run the main feed line on the inside or outside of the car? Does anybody have pics of their routing jobs?
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I don't see my thread on the pages must have been too long ago, I ran mine outside under the car. Drilled hole in side of spare tire area, routed line along the inner side if the subframe and along the inside of the pinch weld running length of the door. Then followed fuel lines up to the front, also anywhere it passes through metal, and under the engine a rear I used fuel hose as a loom for it to protect. Worked well. And it left me with plenty of slack up front like 4 feet of it .I'll get pics again when I'm on laptop for ya
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i'm debating this as well... i used to go on the outside thru the rubber plug under the passenger's seat, but whatever i did lead to a puddle of water during rain, even if the car was parked. i don't know how the hell that works... i ripped everything out now. i want to try going thru the interior, i guess with a bulkhead fitting to get thru the firewall or somewhere
i'm also hoping the length of line is shorter. i used to need a 20' line
i'm also hoping the length of line is shorter. i used to need a 20' line
#10
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It's best to go outside because if you are like me, I developed a leak in the middle of the line. That will lead to the inside of your car being full of nitrous unless you shut the bottle off everytime. I didn't shut mine off because I wanted it there all the time.
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I'm leaning towards outside mainly because I like the idea of it being outside of the passenger compartment. Also it will be easier to inspect for problems. Pics would be awesome as well!
#13
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i believe the rules at the my local track say it has to be outside the vehicle. but i live on a rocky dirt road and the track never even checks my bottle so mine is ran inside under the carpet.
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hmm, i forgot about track rules! for the rocky road, what about running a steel line from where ever your exit, near the rear, until it's toward the front, in the engine bay? i guess like the fuel lines.
#15
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The BEST way to route braided hose is through the INSIDE of the car and INSIDE a rubber or plastic hose.
The reasons why this is best are as follows;
1) Under the car gets EXTREMELY HOT and as a consequence so does the braided hose when routed outside the car.
2) Heating up the braided hose causes the nitrous liquid to VAPORISE TO GAS and in gaseous form it is approx. 1/3 of the density of the LIQUID.
3) Being 1/3 as dense means you get approx. 1/3 as much through the jets which not only means 1/3 power capability but also 3 X too rich, which equates to even less power.
4) Routing it inside the car protects it from the heat.
5) Routing it through a rubber hose protects it against potential damage and if it does burst the nitrous will be ducted out of the car cabin and out the open rubber pipe ends.
If the race rules insist on NOT running it through the cabin, try to route it through the chassis or at least on the outside face of a chassis rail, as that will protect it from some of the heat.
If you can't do either of those options, do whatever else you can do to protect the hose from heat.
A better alternative to using the standard braided hose is to use the NX black plastic/nylon hose, as that already provides some insulation and it doesn't have the metal over-braid that absorbs and retains heat.
Anyone who has an unprotected hose routed under the car on the inside of the chassis rails, will be AMAZED at the improvement that following this advice will have on your ET's.
An added bonus from following this advice, is that you won't need to retard your timing as much and your engine will be less prone to detonation.
One thing you are likely to need to do to avoid melting your engine after doing this mod, is ADD SOME FUEL, as the pipe will now flow MUCH MORE NITROUS, than it's doing now.
The reasons why this is best are as follows;
1) Under the car gets EXTREMELY HOT and as a consequence so does the braided hose when routed outside the car.
2) Heating up the braided hose causes the nitrous liquid to VAPORISE TO GAS and in gaseous form it is approx. 1/3 of the density of the LIQUID.
3) Being 1/3 as dense means you get approx. 1/3 as much through the jets which not only means 1/3 power capability but also 3 X too rich, which equates to even less power.
4) Routing it inside the car protects it from the heat.
5) Routing it through a rubber hose protects it against potential damage and if it does burst the nitrous will be ducted out of the car cabin and out the open rubber pipe ends.
If the race rules insist on NOT running it through the cabin, try to route it through the chassis or at least on the outside face of a chassis rail, as that will protect it from some of the heat.
If you can't do either of those options, do whatever else you can do to protect the hose from heat.
A better alternative to using the standard braided hose is to use the NX black plastic/nylon hose, as that already provides some insulation and it doesn't have the metal over-braid that absorbs and retains heat.
Anyone who has an unprotected hose routed under the car on the inside of the chassis rails, will be AMAZED at the improvement that following this advice will have on your ET's.
An added bonus from following this advice, is that you won't need to retard your timing as much and your engine will be less prone to detonation.
One thing you are likely to need to do to avoid melting your engine after doing this mod, is ADD SOME FUEL, as the pipe will now flow MUCH MORE NITROUS, than it's doing now.
#16
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On all the F-body installs we do we route the main feed line inside the car. If the bottle is mounted in the back of the car route the feed line up the passenger side through the quarter panel, under the door trim plate, through the kick panel up through the pcm harness area. Make sure to place split loom around the feed line in areas that may be up against any wiring.
Dave
Dave
#17
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I'm also debating about this right now. Car is in the air ready to run the lines just trying to figure out the safest/best way to route.
Think I'm either going on the inside along the passenger side (although I'm running my wiring there also and seems like it might get tight)
Or along the passenger side pinch weld right up against the floor pan secured with insulated clamps.
Any more opinions on this?
Think I'm either going on the inside along the passenger side (although I'm running my wiring there also and seems like it might get tight)
Or along the passenger side pinch weld right up against the floor pan secured with insulated clamps.
Any more opinions on this?