POPPING when spraying??
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 813
Likes: 0
From: Harlingen, TX.
POPPING when spraying?? I have a NOS 5177 dry kit.. When I spray off the line and even sometimes when I'm already moving theres alot of popping for few seconds then it goes away. Does anyone have any idea what it might be? I'm using not jets & I do purge. The only thing that I think is that maybe I'm lacking fuel which causes the popping. Any feedback would be appreciated.....
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 813
Likes: 0
From: Harlingen, TX.
I dont have any NOS tunning I just did the mail in tunning for the TR 224 cam only by Thunder.On motor everything seems to be runing pretty good on a wide band. I am using NO JETS cause its a dry kit which is about a 125 shot more or less & I am using my stock injectors and its a 2000 Z28. Would going to a larger injector help out?
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The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
The other thing to check is if the fittings are all tight. If a fitting is loose it will bleed off and go all over the map. The extra fuel may not be able to burn and as a result it dumps into the exhaust creating some popping. It happened to me once and I found that the fittings on the nozzles had worked themselves loose a little.
My car is doing this same thing
I'm running a 100 shoot with a NOS 5177 Dry kit on a 2002 SS M6
Is there anything i could maybe adjust the FPSS switch?
Am i trying to add my Fuel or is it getting too much?
Im running everything stock.. as is... With 91 Octane gas..
What do you guys suggest i do?
I'm running a 100 shoot with a NOS 5177 Dry kit on a 2002 SS M6
Is there anything i could maybe adjust the FPSS switch?
Am i trying to add my Fuel or is it getting too much?
Im running everything stock.. as is... With 91 Octane gas..
What do you guys suggest i do?
Originally Posted by FinalTA
Guys....you really need to figure our why in the hell you are detonating. That is HORRIBLE while on the spray. Get your cars on a dyno with a wideband and/or get them tuned. You will pop your motor this way...
How much does that cost?
I dont use N20 everyday. so if i get it tuned witht hat Widebad dyno will it still be fine for normal everyday driving and races without n20 or will it need to be re programmed?
Originally Posted by FinalTA
My suggestion....
Buy a MAFT (MAF Translator). When you get your car dyno'd with a wideband, it will tell you how rich (or lean in this case more than likely) you are. Adjust the MAFT until the air:fuel ratio is in check.
I run mine one way for daily use and another for the N2O. In other words, 1% lean for NA and 4% rich for N2O...
Buy a MAFT (MAF Translator). When you get your car dyno'd with a wideband, it will tell you how rich (or lean in this case more than likely) you are. Adjust the MAFT until the air:fuel ratio is in check.
I run mine one way for daily use and another for the N2O. In other words, 1% lean for NA and 4% rich for N2O...
How much is a MAF Translator?
The MAFT is the square thing right behind the lid. What the lid connects onto right?
After i get it dynoed with that Wideband and adjust the air:fuel ratio how will i know what to set it to? or will it need to be Re Dynoed?
I'm not too clear about this just yet..
Originally Posted by FinalTA
A MAFT will run about $100. It is indeed the box that connects to the MAF (behind the lid).
You will adjust the MAFT while you are on the dyno to reach the desired AFR. Note the value that corresponds to the AFR you are wanting (about 12.5:1 or so while on the spray).
You will adjust the MAFT while you are on the dyno to reach the desired AFR. Note the value that corresponds to the AFR you are wanting (about 12.5:1 or so while on the spray).
Is this adjusted through the computer. Not the actual MAFT?
How much does a Dyno with a Wideband cost?
Cant this be done using LS1 Edit or EFI live?
Last edited by Camaroguy; May 5, 2004 at 09:31 PM.
Originally Posted by FinalTA
Some clarification...
1. The MAFT is a device that is connected between the MAF and the PCM. The wire harness that normally connects to the MAF is connected to the MAFT, and the MAFT is then connected to the MAF. The MAFT interprets the signal from the MAF and sends an altered signal to the PCM in order to richen/lean the AFR.
2. You can buy a MAFT from Ramchargers (sponsor http://www.ramchargers.com/), or find one in the classified section. I'd look for a used one myself.
3. You will not have to swap anything once you have the MAFT in place. All you really have to do is find the best setting for the MAFT while you are on the dyno/wideband. You can then adjust the MAFT for optimal NA driving or N2O runs once you know the settings that work best.
4. An hour on the dyno with wideband should run you around $125 or so.
5. You can do this with LS1 edit (or have someone tune the car for you). However, you are looking at around $500 for that.
1. The MAFT is a device that is connected between the MAF and the PCM. The wire harness that normally connects to the MAF is connected to the MAFT, and the MAFT is then connected to the MAF. The MAFT interprets the signal from the MAF and sends an altered signal to the PCM in order to richen/lean the AFR.
2. You can buy a MAFT from Ramchargers (sponsor http://www.ramchargers.com/), or find one in the classified section. I'd look for a used one myself.
3. You will not have to swap anything once you have the MAFT in place. All you really have to do is find the best setting for the MAFT while you are on the dyno/wideband. You can then adjust the MAFT for optimal NA driving or N2O runs once you know the settings that work best.
4. An hour on the dyno with wideband should run you around $125 or so.
5. You can do this with LS1 edit (or have someone tune the car for you). However, you are looking at around $500 for that.
Or could this only be fixed with the MAFT?
Which way should the two nozzles be pointing?
Right now i have them both drilled in the sides of my lid.. About 3 inchs from the back, and both nozzles are pointed directly at the MAF
Is that bad?
Right now i have them both drilled in the sides of my lid.. About 3 inchs from the back, and both nozzles are pointed directly at the MAF
Is that bad?