Been continuing my research and now I'm considering trying out a dual stage wet/dry setup for my first nitrous system once the funds are available. I plan on piecing this setup together from either summit or nitro daves rather than buying a full kit. I do have a few questions though to those of you experienced with this kind of setup.

1) I don't have the cash to upgrade the fuel system right now, so since my car is a 98 m6 t/a I have the better flowing stock system. I was thinking running stage one as a dry 50 shot off a wot switch between a 3000-5800 rpm window. Stage two would be a wet 100 shot and I think I would like to run this off a momentary switch somehow mounted to the shifter. I feel this would give me more control in case I don't even need the extra kick. Would all of this work well?

2) What's the best way to mount the momentary switch to the shifter exactly?

3) The car will be almost entirely stock except for a lid and subframes, and then eventually mac mids and a true dual setup. Would the 50 shot allow me to hold traction well on some 16" nittos? Or will I still break loose? Haven't mounted these tires at all yet because of the cold so I have no idea how well they hold stock let alone on the juice.

Last) How could I set this up off a single bottle? Would I simply run a line from the valve to a "t" fitting, then a line from the "t" to each nitrous solenoid, and a single fuel 'noid as normal for the second stage?

Might as well throw in the obligatory "what kind of times could I expect" at the end here. Supposing the car has a lid, subframes, nittos, macs, and true duals and then a 50 dry shot/100 wet shot, what can I expect out of the car as long as I drive it well? How about before the macs and duals?

Thanks in advance everyone and I'm sorry about the longish post, just had a lot to ask before I forget it all!

 

How big of a problem will bottle pressure be if I try to run both shots off the single bottle? Will the first stage knock off a few hundred psi or not so dramatic? Also, would I be better going 75 and 75 or would there be traction problems in first with that kind of shot?

 

50 shoot will not make a big differnce. i could not tell when i shot a 50 and went right up to the 100.
A switch on the shifter....well my line lock came with a switch that was supposed to be mounted on the shifter but I never did it. it had a U bolt that went around the shifter and the cord or electical was in a coil so it would stretch with the movment. I don't rember what brand it was.
Working off one bottle will be ok to start with but you just will not get as big of hit because of the drop in bottle presser. But this might work well I'm thinking you might have a problem with tracktion. You don't want to skat down the track. With this set up my guess will be that you will drop around a second off your time maybe a little more. If you don't have a bottle heater you will want to get one.

 

anyone else have some input?

Thanks!

 

I would say that its not worth it and it would be better to just get a progressive controller and set it up from there. For example start it off a WOT switch at and have a 100 shot total, but have the controller set at half of that. It would be a whole lot cheaper with basicly the same results.

 

Aren't progressive controllers upwards of over 500 bucks or so though? I'd think just tossing on a fuel and nitrous 'noid and some extra line would amount to almost half that. I do also like the idea of having more control over the system in case I don't always want to spray the full shot.

 

You would be better off spending the money you're using adding the 2nd stage, to work on the suspension or go to a better tire, and use a 125-150hp single stage system. Staged systems are a last resort, and all but the most serious cars can get away with only one system.

JMO, I just think you're over complicating what really is a basic combination.

 

Well I do plan on working on the suspension as well but I want to do a lot of that all at once (shocks, springs, lca's and relocation brackets, panhard bar) so that may be a little further down the line unless traction proves to be a problem still when the summer comes and I try out the nittos. I don't really want to go to anything stickier than the nitto dr because the car will be used mostly on the street and something softer would need it's own strip rim most likely or I'd go through tires real fast (plus I already have a seperate set of rims for the snow tires so that's a lotta tires lying around in the garage <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> ). Also, the car is an m6 and I want to try and baby the rear a little while I can so I figured it would be a little easier with a second stage and less sticky compound than the full shock of 150 horses and ungodly torque hitting some et streets or the like all at once. Again, I do like the added control of running just the 50 shot and having the extra 75-100 on the button and ready for me. If I do end up going with a setup such as a 50 dry and 100 wet, would I need a new fuel pump in my 98 for something like this or should I be fine? I was going to dyno the car once installed and watch the a/f to see if I wanted to do a total 125 or 150, but would it even be worth the bother on a stock pump? If not, how much of a dry/wet combo could the car handle?

I do plan on upgrading a lot of these things down the line such as the rear, the fuel system, etc. but I'm just trying to see how far I can go at the moment until I do so.

Thanks again to all that have helped so far!

 

the setup you want to do will be fine!
considering....you do not try to get to crazy
if you are not going to invest in a fuel pump or
a MAF translator

maf trans's are good for the dry setup to adjust
WOT fuel enrichment
..
your car should be able to handle about 175shot
with the stock fuel system
I have a 98 formula and I will be spraying about
275-300 across mine w/ a fuel pump, and a progressive controller, 2 stage. I have a a4

PROG.CONTR. are about 300 for the basic one
that is all you need look on ebay for around 200

I would put the dry shot on a WOT switch
and the wet on a momentary (in parralel with the dry) on the shifter
MEANING.....both wet and dry will opereate
only if you are WOT and you just put a switch in series on the dry if you just want to opeerate the wet only

If you need any kind of drawings let me know
I design electrical circuits for a living

 

If you haven't bought any of the components yet, I'll tell you what we did recently on my buddies '01 Trans Am.

We purchased an Edelbrock Performer kit for carbureted cars, $350. This will include a fuel and a nitrous solenoid which will be used for the wet stage, and also a carb plate which you can sell to a buddy. It also contains the main -4 feed line and relays and switches.

A fogger nozzle for the wet kit should run about $25, for the dry side, about $15.

You will also need a nitrous solenoid for the dry side, a purge solenoid will work fine.

You should get a bottle heater, $110.

You will also need some misc. hoses, switches etc. but I can see you having the whole deal done for less than $600, which is only a little more than the NOS kit, which doesn't include a heater.

Mike

 

what kind of shot could be run from a purge solenoid?

 

what size shot could be run from a purge solenoid?

 

sorry, double post trying to edit

 

purge solenoid is same as a super power shot
solenoid .....about 150 is max probably not even
that