Tapping the LS6 intake for Direct port?
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I've been looking for ino on this, to no avail. I hear people mention epoxy, & I want to see if I got it right.
Do you drill & tap the intake, (as Reckless has show with the Holley intake) and then put epoxy on the nozzle threads, screw them in, & let the epoxy set up for a day or 2?
If so, then it's something that I can do myself. I would prefer to do it myself, as opposed to spending big $$ for someone else to do it.
Do you drill & tap the intake, (as Reckless has show with the Holley intake) and then put epoxy on the nozzle threads, screw them in, & let the epoxy set up for a day or 2?
If so, then it's something that I can do myself. I would prefer to do it myself, as opposed to spending big $$ for someone else to do it.
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No, you could always epoxy up the hole, paint it, and sell it. Or you could tap out the hole bigger, put in a plug & retap.
I guess everyone here paid someone to have theirs done. Someone step up & explain this. Or is it a ******* trade secret?? <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />
I guess everyone here paid someone to have theirs done. Someone step up & explain this. Or is it a ******* trade secret?? <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />
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Call Cartek and talk with them. They are doing the lion's share of DP LS1 setups. They have been very helpful to me during my install, and I have never bought a single thing from them. Julio is the most knowledgable on the DP stuff and works usually after 3pm eastern.
Todd
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How ARE did my LS6 intake for the TNT Force 4 kit was the following:
1) drill holes in the intake so the nozzles are perpendicular to the runner. The nozzles on the driver side should slant to the front and the nozzles on the passenger side should slant to the firewall.
2) Tap the holes. The TNT nozzle uses 1/8" pipe threads.
3) Apply thread sealer on the nozzle threads. ARP thread sealer was used on my.
4) Screw in the nozzles so that the top threads of the nozzle are flush with the intake and the nozzle is pointing to the intake valve.
5) Allow the enough time for the thread sealer set. 5 to 6 days is recommended.
6) After the thread sealer has set, apply an epoxy sealer on the outside of the intake around the nozzle. Do not apply the exopy to the inside of the intake. You do not want to interrupt the air flow any more than what the nozzle is already.
I used this same procedure for installing a new TNT Force 4 kit on a sheet metal intake. The steps are not hard, but time consuming.
DO NOT RUSH ANY OF THE STEPS!!!! 1) and 2) are very important. If you screw any part of them up, you pretty much have destroyed the intake.
<small>[ February 05, 2003, 08:04 AM: Message edited by: ls1290 ]</small>
1) drill holes in the intake so the nozzles are perpendicular to the runner. The nozzles on the driver side should slant to the front and the nozzles on the passenger side should slant to the firewall.
2) Tap the holes. The TNT nozzle uses 1/8" pipe threads.
3) Apply thread sealer on the nozzle threads. ARP thread sealer was used on my.
4) Screw in the nozzles so that the top threads of the nozzle are flush with the intake and the nozzle is pointing to the intake valve.
5) Allow the enough time for the thread sealer set. 5 to 6 days is recommended.
6) After the thread sealer has set, apply an epoxy sealer on the outside of the intake around the nozzle. Do not apply the exopy to the inside of the intake. You do not want to interrupt the air flow any more than what the nozzle is already.
I used this same procedure for installing a new TNT Force 4 kit on a sheet metal intake. The steps are not hard, but time consuming.
DO NOT RUSH ANY OF THE STEPS!!!! 1) and 2) are very important. If you screw any part of them up, you pretty much have destroyed the intake.
<small>[ February 05, 2003, 08:04 AM: Message edited by: ls1290 ]</small>
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I can take some pics tonight of both the LS6 intake and sheet metal intake. Unfortunately the digital camera I have is pretty crap, but it should be good enough to get the point across. I will email them tomorrow <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by ls1290:
<strong> How ARE did my LS6 intake for the TNT Force 4 kit was the following:
6) After the thread sealer has set, apply an epoxy sealer on the outside of the intake around the nozzle. Do not apply the exopy to the inside of the intake. You do not want to interrupt the air flow any more than what the nozzle is already.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">What kind of epoxy did you use?
<strong> How ARE did my LS6 intake for the TNT Force 4 kit was the following:
6) After the thread sealer has set, apply an epoxy sealer on the outside of the intake around the nozzle. Do not apply the exopy to the inside of the intake. You do not want to interrupt the air flow any more than what the nozzle is already.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">What kind of epoxy did you use?