I want to spay 300, but I have some issues.....
My tuner installed a new bottom end, with the nx express direct port. Put it on the dyno and cracked a sleeve at 300 shot. Ouch...... it was re-sleeved with a .010" over bore...... to 3.910".
I think this is a weak link..... any one have history on this?

Bruce1

 

Maybe ring gap?

 

Oh man, Bruce, not good to hear.
That´s why I decided to go with the iron block.

Maye the darton sleeves are a good idea, Lingenfelter knows why he uses them on his TT´s.

Michael

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Austrian Vette:
<strong> Oh man, Bruce, not good to hear.
That´s why I decided to go with the iron block.

Maye the darton sleeves are a good idea, Lingenfelter knows why he uses them on his TT´s.

Michael </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes, I am not happy................
A little late now, I believe that I could have gone iron block, but the added weight is not what I wanted to deal with, the C5 is so perfectly balanced now. Still I will call Lingenfelter this week.....there was no indication that this was going to be an issue.
Only now, I am told there may be issues.

<small>[ March 02, 2003, 05:44 PM: Message edited by: bruce1 ]</small>

 

please dont tell us you just sprayed 300 out of the gate? and not worked up to that power level? especially on a new bottom end? there are a lot of things to deal with when spraying 300... not just forged pistons.. i don't have all the details but what fuel and timing were you running? and yes ring gap has a lot to do with it as well. more info is what we need...

wes

 

Compression, Air/Fuel, Outside temp, engine temp, progressive controller, WOT timing

 

I have been spraying for 2 years. I have a EX Express system, with the works, warmer, progressive controller, but I have since bypassed it to go on imediately. Because, considering it pulsates the soleniods, and has worked my fuel soleniod hard, it was malfuncting, luckily it was caught on a dyno while tuning was being done. I have a WOT to activate the system. My C5 has beefed up all over, tranny with cooler, LS6 intake, heads and cam, gears 3.73's, headers, Upgraded timing chain, you name it, I pretty much have done it.

The new bottom was built considering the nitrous use. Again, this sleeve cracked on the dyno while being tuned. I am now concerned that this honed shortblock, going at a .010" oversize bore to a 3.910" , will not be condusive to nitrous use.

Your thoughts are welcome.

Bruce

<small>[ March 02, 2003, 05:56 PM: Message edited by: bruce1 ]</small>

 

All the clearances have been precise and to the min. for this nitrous requirement.

But the sleeve did crack, while it was being fine tuned and adjusted on the dyno. I was not there while the dyno was being done.
Unfortunately!

 

Bruce, a 300 shot is pretty huge for an stroked aluminium block.
At least I would do a dual shot on that and not let the 300 shot in at once.
Try to find out what happened exactly.
I would bet you run lean and/or had bad knocking)and let us know, then we may be able to give you some more thoughts.
I would love to see what the 02`s were when it happend....the dyno sheet would be intresting, too.

You sure have a stand allone fuel system?!?!

However, I really hope you get through this asap and you´re happy with the results, at the end.
You´re one of the fast guys and deserve it to be in the deep 9`s soon.

I´ll help as good as I can.

Michael

 

I am a little confused. Why was the block resleeved? The stock sleeves and handle a 0.010" overbore. My block is overbored 0.010" and I have sprayed it numerous times at 300hp.